Reply With QuoteOnly the center is cast the tube is well, tube. Better off with plates welded to take the stubs or hubs drilled to match the stud pattern.
Wizard
SubscriberI have managed to secure a D1 axle for a trailer. I have stripped it down and have the hubs off. Instead of getting a plate made to bolt the hubs to a solid 45mm axle I thought of cutting the diff about 20cm from each end and attaching each end to the 45mm axle. That would allow me to use the shock mounts and brake mounts. Can the cast diff be welded? Has anyone done this before? Please show pics.
LordRover
SubscriberOnly the center is cast the tube is well, tube. Better off with plates welded to take the stubs or hubs drilled to match the stud pattern.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Swaggie
I made an axle using land rover stubs and hubs for my trailer.... Search HCPU trailer.
Super Moderator
If going that method it would be better getting some thick wall steam pipe of the appropriate OD to sleeve into the housing stumps.
There is nothing in the ADR that requires you to use solid bar, in fact most truck trailer axles are RHS.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Wizard
SubscriberDoes any one know of anyone in the Melbourne area who could sleeve it like this?Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
LordRover
SubscriberWhy go to the trouble of sleeving housing ends when you will need to destroy 1 housing (assuming you have to buy one) and then get it welded anyway when you could just get a 40/45mm axle and weld plates on the end to bolt the stubs to ?
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Swaggie
agree, seems a lot of work. will a trailer hydraulic brake coupling drive disco brakes?
see post 25 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...trailer-3.html
Super Moderator
Carl's first post indicated that he already has the housing.
It doesn't take much to weld something like this. The big job is getting steam pipe of the correct O.D. for the I.D. of the disco housing, but the important thing is to ensure the hub flanges are parrallel in both the vertical and horizontal planes when welded.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Swaggie
one would assume the hub flanges would need to be machined after welding to ensure they are parrallel........that was the process when we made mine, although how accurate do you need to be with a trailer?
Super Moderator
Hi Kelvin
The parallel nature of the hubs on a trailer is most important only because of the desire to minimise tyre wear and stability/tracking issues.
As for the welding, I would drill big holes in the housing stumps and "puddle weld" the inner tube into position, (a bit like the axle tubes on a Salisbury are puddle welded) although for the outer end if you kept the inner tube a little short and use an interrupted circumfrential weld you wouldn't have to touch the stub axle flange or machine it off.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
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