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Thread: Who knows trailer brake controllers?

  1. #1
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    Who knows trailer brake controllers?

    Getting some other stuff installed by an auto electrician and I don't have a trailer with electric brakes as yet but looking at camper trailers so thought I might as well get one installed while I am at it and the electrician is here.

    Looking around the the tekonsha ones seem to be the most popular but there are three main ones, the prodigy is about $80 and the p2 and p3 are around $140. But I can't figure out the main differences and why you would buy one over the other?

    I will most likely never tow a large van, probably just camper trailers. Maybe hire a car trailer from time to time.

    Which one should I buy?

  2. #2
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    Not all can be mounted horizontal.

    Not all are easy to adjust. Some are semi-auto.

    There's a bit of sense in paying extra if you're towing a larger van. I'd do a search, then check the caravan forums.

  3. #3
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    Hi Andrew,
    I tow a camper that wieghs 660kg dry. Time we get on the road we are around a ton.
    I use a Tekonsha Prodigy and it does the job well. We tow on the highway as well as some serious off road stuff.
    I find I rarely need to have any input into the unit unless were on really steep downhill stuff and I need more control over the trailer brakes to stop them locking up and sliding.
    On a D3 or later they are extremely easy to fit. There is an adaptor plug just under your dash and you purchase an adaptor cable from Tekonsha. Plug one end into Tekonsha and the other end into the plug under your dash. It's that easy. You can set it up yourself in 5mins with almost no tools.
    Cheers, Rick.

  4. #4
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    AnD3rew,

    For the extra $60 your best bet is buy the P3. It is the knees bees of units.
    You may never use all of the functions it has but it is a good unit.

    Other side of the coin.....

    I use a RedArc remote head unit, I only tow a camper trailer & no longer tow in excess of 2.5 - 3 tonne.
    The only disadvantage is they are not a progressive brake controller as is the P3.
    What that means is in an emergency situation if you have a Progressive unit, when you apply the brakes harder & harder the sensor
    in the unit then also applies more voltage as required.
    The RedArc unit is a solid state unit, set it once & that is all you get.

    My other point is make sure the auto sparky knows what he is doing.
    There is a post on the forum specifically for the D3 make sure he reads it :-)
    If you are in Melbourne I could help out.

    HTH
    Cheers

    Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

  5. #5
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    Thanks sniegy, I am in Sydney, but thanks for the offer. I will see if I can find the thread, but what mistake could the sparky make?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Franrick View Post
    Hi Andrew,
    I tow a camper that wieghs 660kg dry. Time we get on the road we are around a ton.
    I use a Tekonsha Prodigy and it does the job well. We tow on the highway as well as some serious off road stuff.
    I find I rarely need to have any input into the unit unless were on really steep downhill stuff and I need more control over the trailer brakes to stop them locking up and sliding.
    On a D3 or later they are extremely easy to fit. There is an adaptor plug just under your dash and you purchase an adaptor cable from Tekonsha. Plug one end into Tekonsha and the other end into the plug under your dash. It's that easy. You can set it up yourself in 5mins with almost no tools.
    Cheers, Rick.
    Hey Rick,
    Any chance you take a photo of this "plug"
    I have virtually taken apart a D3 to find this elusive plug only to find they aren't part of our loom for export.
    If you are in the states then fine it is in the loom.

    Cheers

    Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnD3rew View Post
    Thanks sniegy, I am in Sydney, but thanks for the offer. I will see if I can find the thread, but what mistake could the sparky make?
    First mistake would be the color of the wiring is not an exact match for Australia.
    Second mistake is not picking up that there are 2 park light circuits & if this is not modified then when lights are on auto & you travel
    under a tunnel, this will lock on your brakes.

    I have seen many attempts to wire in ETB's & in the end I normally just strip it & start from the beginning.
    Have a read of the post & if you need to ask questions.

    Cheers

    Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Franrick View Post
    Hi Andrew,
    I tow a camper that wieghs 660kg dry. Time we get on the road we are around a ton.
    I use a Tekonsha Prodigy and it does the job well. We tow on the highway as well as some serious off road stuff.
    I find I rarely need to have any input into the unit unless were on really steep downhill stuff and I need more control over the trailer brakes to stop them locking up and sliding.
    On a D3 or later they are extremely easy to fit. There is an adaptor plug just under your dash and you purchase an adaptor cable from Tekonsha. Plug one end into Tekonsha and the other end into the plug under your dash. It's that easy. You can set it up yourself in 5mins with almost no tools.
    Cheers, Rick.
    That would be awesome if true, but sniegy raises doubts. As he said if you can take a photo and post so I can check to see if it is there

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnD3rew View Post
    That would be awesome if true, but sniegy raises doubts. As he said if you can take a photo and post so I can check to see if it is there
    Even if the connector exists there is still the problem of the 2nd park light circuit using the brake wire at the trailer socket.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniegy View Post
    First mistake would be the color of the wiring is not an exact match for Australia.
    Second mistake is not picking up that there are 2 park light circuits & if this is not modified then when lights are on auto & you travel
    under a tunnel, this will lock on your brakes.

    I have seen many attempts to wire in ETB's & in the end I normally just strip it & start from the beginning.
    Have a read of the post & if you need to ask questions.

    Cheers

    Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner
    I've tried searching but can't seem to find the post. Any chance you can provide a link to it.

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