D1 hubs onto a trailer axle

The easiest way IMHO to do this is to buy non drilled 10 inch ALKO parallel hubs and have a machine shop drill them 6.5 x5 and fit Land Rover studs.

You check the depth by comparing with the studs on your D1 hubs.

The LR studs have to be countersunk to a depth so that the emerged length is the same as on a D1/RRC as the Alloy nuts are closed.

This took me about 3 months to figure out.

BE VERY CAREFUL that you do not buy ALKO parallel hubs with LR pattern as they are IMPERIAL and the holes for the splined section of the stud are too big for LR studs.!!!!

Of course you can run steel wheels on these no problem but not alloys.

The other question I have I guess is whether D1 alloys are located by the centre spigot and how big the hole is , and subsequently whether it will fit over the ALKO hub nose which is very big and deep.

RRC 3 spoke alloy wheels fit no problem as they were never located by the centre spigot and are deep enough to clear the bearing carrier.

If I were you and the purpose is to have a second spare like I did, I would use RRC 3 spoke wheels that will fit your D1 and are the same size and offset.

Regards Philip A

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pop058

IIRC, the illegal bit about that idea is the spinning drive flange on the front of the diff. If no axles are fitted, this should not be an issue. The are heaps of old chassis cuts around being used as trailer bases with the diff still in them.

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You don't need axles or diff centre, hubs are full floaters just need to put a cover plate over hub ends and over the diff centre housing

Find an old rangie classic or disco rear housing and cut the flanges off the ends of the tubes. A reputable engineer will be able to weld them to a heavy wall pipe, and weld saddles to the tube to mount on the springs. Drill and tap a drain hole in the bottom, a fill hole about 1/3 of the way up the pipe ( looking at it horizontally) and a hole in the top for a breather. This will make an extremely strong axle, with oil fed bearings.
A tube axle is way stronger than a solid axle.
I did this for my camper, but with series 109" drum brakes.

I agree with above if using leaf springs and beam axle.
But of course if you are concerned with compliance etc,as with posts re my thread on drilling a tow hitch then you may want a certified combo. If so the ALKO setup ticks the boxes.
Regards Philip A