Must Have camper Trailer features?

**cewilson** · 12th October 2014, 12:20 AM

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Just to throw a cat amongst the pigeons...
I would argue that a sexy multi hundred dollar "off-road" hitch looks good but essentially unnecessary.

Between myself and half a dozen mates we would have towed trailers and boats across every road on the cape and in the gulf - all with a 50mm ball couplings.

None have ever been hampered by articulation - ever. None have ever failed, clunked or importantly been difficult to hitch and un-hitch.

I think the only trailer that would need more articulation than a 50mm ball gives would have to have the trailer axle <2m behind the tow hitch which would make it a fair pig of a trailer to tow/reverse and live with...

Just my observation from combined experience. I guess if it were me Id be spending the dollars on something else over an expensive hitch.

s

I'll disagree as I take our Trak Shak where most people won't take their 4WD's. I far exceed the limits of a standard ball set-up.

Each to their own requirements.....

**roverrescue** · 12th October 2014, 04:30 PM

Cewilson,
how do you know you exceed the ball limits if you are not using one?
have you ever had a ball setup that has bound up or disconnected?

Just a thought...

**PhilipA** · 12th October 2014, 08:12 PM

But then its not the time to have structural failure if you are dropping into a steep creek entry.
I am confident I have used greater angles than those offered by ball couplings.
Two that immediately come to mind were being winched south out of Cannibal creek on the Northern OTT, and another when I drove up on top of the embankment at the reservoir at a a Ghan station on the Oodnadatta track.
I don't know of others but then they may have happened often.

IMHO it is better to be safe than sorry, particularly when a McHitch for example costs only a couple of hundred dollars.

The other issue is that on a recent NSW Range Rover Club trip up the Oodnadatta track, 2 camper trailers flipped on the corrugations. In both cases the cars stayed upright, which is IMHO less likely with a ball, as by the time it would reach the limit of its travel the trailer would be well over and be placing a lot of inertia on the car to help it roll. You see lots of vans that drag the car over with them.
Regards Philip A

**Homestar** · 13th October 2014, 07:57 AM

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Cewilson,
how do you know you exceed the ball limits if you are not using one?
have you ever had a ball setup that has bound up or disconnected?

Just a thought...

I wrecked a mates trailer finding its limits accidentally. We were trying to back a bog standard 7x5 trailer up a steep driveway while helping him move house (steep enough that the driveway had steps running up the side of it as it was almost too steep to walk up) - who would want a place like that? How are you supposed to push your latest project into the garage...

. Trailer was full of furniture. As I backed it up - on a slight angle as there was a car parked directly across from his driveway, I dropped one wheel of his ute into a drain opening while the wheels of the trailer were up the driveway. I was backing quite fast as I knew I needed to get that wheel up over the gutter. There was a nasty sound as everything went up the driveway. When I got out and had a look the draw bar was bent and the hitch was damaged from hitting the back of the towbar. I wouldn't risk going off road with a hitch like that - just in case. You'd probably get away with it 99 times out of 100, but not worth the risk IMO for a couple of hundred dollars. I run pintle hooks myself, but only because I've got a Military vehicle and trailer - everything matches so I can tow anything with anything else. Even the old caravan I have just got will be converted to a pintle ring. It's also really handy when someone asks to borrow a trailer - 'you have a pintle hitch connection on your car? - no? - sorry, that's all my trailers have...'

**Redback** · 13th October 2014, 09:23 AM

I towed a tandum axle trailer up the Oodnadatta track and the Strez many moons ago, popped the trailer off the ball doing a uturn when I drove down into a drain, thankfully the chain helped me drive out to reconnect the trailer as I couldn't re-connect it in the drain(got bogged also, bloody Ford Explorers

So yeah I'm all for an offroad hitch, last thing you need is to be going up one of the errosion humps(mountains) on a steep track in the high country and the trailer pop off the ball

Baz

**FeatherWeightDriver** · 13th October 2014, 07:35 PM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The other issue is that on a recent NSW Range Rover Club trip up the Oodnadatta track, 2 camper trailers flipped on the corrugations.

How on earth did they manage that?!?!?!?!

Was speed a factor?

Doc130 · 13th October 2014, 09:25 PM

Good chance! Regardless of what hitch!!!

**p38arover** · 14th October 2014, 05:41 AM

Originally Posted by FeatherWeightDriver

How on earth did they manage that?!?!?!?!

Was speed a factor?

About 15 years back I flipped my trailer onto its side on an LROC trip. No I wasn't going fast and I don't know how it happened. The tow ball stayed attached to my RRC.

Re checking gas bottles, I pour hot water down the side and then feel for where the metal has been cooled by the liquified gas.

Tombie · 14th October 2014, 09:30 AM

I have seen 2 trailer roll overs.

The one using an offroad coupling just let the trailer flip.

The one using a 50mm ball pulled the 4wd onto its side too.

It can happen

**Sitec** · 16th October 2014, 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by mark2

My idea for our next trailer is to use a basic heavy duty box trailer (possibly a No. 5) which will have a roof top tent mounted on a raised frame so the total height is no higher than the tow vehicle. Under the raised frame and accross the back of the trailer will be a fixed bench/kitchen area with storage space under. Forward of the bench there will be enclosed lockable storage for water, extra fuel etc with much more height than a typical camper trailer.

A roll out awning will be mounted to extend over the rear cooking area or the side, depending on which way I decide to orientate the folding part of tent.

I think I can keep the total cost well under $5k.

Yup, I'll second this! My plan to build a single axle box trailer on the same rims as the tow vehicle. The box will be the same height and width as the tow vehicle (in my case its a 101 on 900x16 tyres which is 1800mm wide). It'll b about 3000mm long with a tapered rear for good departure angle. Inside will b a bed and room for a few clothes etc. under the bed accessed from outside, will be storage, pull out prep area (inc Baby Webber). Im using a NATO hitch directly mounted on the rear X member, so the trailer chassis will b high. Ball hitches are not suitable IMO. Stainless 150 LT water tank under the floor. Awning, log rack up high on the front, with gas cyls (2) and extra storage under the rack. Springs will be long two leaf parabolic springs, matching the 101. I plan to carry one main leaf as spare. The longer they are the softer they ride (especially with decent shockers). I believe all these stubby 7 leaf "Off Road" banded Alco springs are too short and therefore very harsh... and this is why people fall for the trap that independent suspension is better! Independent suspension has no gain on a single axled trailer which essentially is a tripod. Carry two spares on the tow vehicle. If you want batteries on the trailer, use a heavy lead with an Anderson plug to connect it to the tow vehicle. Have a heavy duty IGN activated solenoid on the tow vehicle, so when you turn off, the trailer automatically disconnects. With a box trailer, you have a nice flat platform on the roof to do what you like with!

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