Sounds like a very inconvenient and horribly expensive way to go, but good luck!!
I'm in the planning phases of another Offroad trailer build.
This will be another boat trailer for 5m plate alloy boat
Always I start with the suspension and work up,
I'm a little bored of triangulated four links from the last two builds so have two competing designs.
Easy one is radius arms plus a panhard with thoughts to use an air strut.
I figure that LR have dialled in Offroad durability to their struts and the overweight D3/D4 with front axle weights approaching 2tonne should be perfect for this application.
Big question is what are the dimensions of a front strut or better still does anyone have a dead one kicking around???
Kind regards
Steve
Sounds like a very inconvenient and horribly expensive way to go, but good luck!!
Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'
I think the main issue would be the fact that the strut sits vertically (or close to) whereas on a boat trailer you want a flat suspension setup that does not impinge on the boat envelope? Otherwise the struts are known to be robust and durable.
Chris
2014 D4 TDV6
1954 86"
1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)
Thanks for thoughts
On most recent boat trailer with triangulated 4 link the dampers were defender fronts attached at top rear of guard down to axle ... 180lb/in springs at 300mm ride height. Plenty of room under a boat due to the deadrise
Easier to package suspension than in a camper or box trailer.
As long as the struts are in the 550mm or so range when at ride height and 200mm or so diameter fitting will be easy
Ride height adjustability and single package for damper/ spring is the benefit
If the LR option is too large I'll likely run a coil spring strut???
S
And on the expense side at about $500 for a pair
Really not that Exe compared to buying a pair of air springs plus appropriate dampers?
If I wanted boring and cheap I'd build it with ****ty ALKO components and rebuild every 3 years
S
I think your onto something here and i like your theory for a boat trailer with the ability to raise and lower the suspension for launching and retreaving aswell as ride and durability
I like thinking out side the square it is all part of being a Real Landy owner
Dont let the nay sayer`s put you off
Ta Chris - I think it solves a bunch of packaging dilemmas! And should be tough too.
Trailer will tilt to allow shallow launch retrieve also means axle and suspension can stay out of the water
Planning on building a frame over the tilt section with RTT on it. Frame will raise for launching and loading but lower to lock boat down to trailer. Thinking of swing out kitchen etc up front in space at bow with storage on other side??
Next step will be to dust off the CAD and start doodling hence wanting some dimensions...
On that note Chily I might take you up on your offer but first if not too much hassle just having extended and compressed lengths and max diameter will help planning if it's not too much to ask you to measure your dead strut????
Regards
Steve
The front shocks don't have much travel - perhaps around 100mm whereas the rears, whilst fully extended are around 50mm longer than the front, have around 200mm of travel. I can get more accurate measurements tomorrow in daylight as I have a few sets of both in the shed.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
That would be awesome Graeme
Thankyou
A single axle trailer doesn't need much travel
Articulation is largely at the hitch
As long as there is sufficient travel for high speed bump control
Limited down travel is actually advantageous to limit
Roll understeer in a linked suspension
Steve
Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
---|
|
|
Bookmarks