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Thread: Trailer bearings and axles

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    Are you fitting drums or disc? And off which car landy?? Override hydraulic???

    I build an axle a few years ago running defender stubs, discs and calipers.....but I wen electric over hydraulic actuator. When the flanges were welded on they were than put in a lathe and machined parallel. Stubs from a Salisbury are easiest to mount.
    I also would have thought that you could have any axle / bearing / hub combination imagineable. I guess the big manufacturers have their standard arrangements.

    To run LR wheels & brakes on my camper trailer, I had machined an axle blank to the profile of the inside of a pair of Range Rover stub axles, I pressed (read 'belted') the stub axles on and welded them in place from behind. For disc caliper brackets I took a pair of Rangie front swivel housings and with a 9" angle grinder I cut away every part of the housing except the caliper mount, the stub-axle mounting flange, and the material connecting those two. The resulting caliper brackets bolt to the back of the already-existing flange on the stub axle. A pair of Rangie front discs and calipers fed by an electric / hydraulic actuator. With a fully loaded trailer, the vehicle stops better than without the trailer. That axle has been on some of the worst roads in Aus with nary a problem. Nice to only have to carry one spare set of bearings, too.

    I also came up with a system to attach the axle to leaf springs (better for a trailer IMO, simple, robust and no shocks required) without using U-bolts, which are what brings most leaf-sprung trailers undone on outback roads.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    I also would have thought that you could have any axle / bearing / hub combination imagineable. I guess the big manufacturers have their standard arrangements.

    ...I also came up with a system to attach the axle to leaf springs (better for a trailer IMO, simple, robust and no shocks required) without using U-bolts, which are what brings most leaf-sprung trailers undone on outback roads.
    Hi POD, you've got my attention please share more about this non-ubolt system with us.

    I'm sure there are a few of us who have broken a u-bolt.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    I also would have thought that you could have any axle / bearing / hub combination imagineable. I guess the big manufacturers have their standard arrangements.

    To run LR wheels & brakes on my camper trailer, I had machined an axle blank to the profile of the inside of a pair of Range Rover stub axles, I pressed (read 'belted') the stub axles on and welded them in place from behind. For disc caliper brackets I took a pair of Rangie front swivel housings and with a 9" angle grinder I cut away every part of the housing except the caliper mount, the stub-axle mounting flange, and the material connecting those two. The resulting caliper brackets bolt to the back of the already-existing flange on the stub axle. A pair of Rangie front discs and calipers fed by an electric / hydraulic actuator. With a fully loaded trailer, the vehicle stops better than without the trailer. That axle has been on some of the worst roads in Aus with nary a problem. Nice to only have to carry one spare set of bearings, too.

    I also came up with a system to attach the axle to leaf springs (better for a trailer IMO, simple, robust and no shocks required) without using U-bolts, which are what brings most leaf-sprung trailers undone on outback roads.
    For caliper brackets I just had some profile cut with holes drilled to suit the PCD of the stubs...than spaced the caliper out so they were central on the caliper.

  4. #24
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    Jun 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87County View Post
    Hi POD, you've got my attention please share more about this non-ubolt system with us.

    I'm sure there are a few of us who have broken a u-bolt.
    No worries, it is super simple but I don't think I've seen the idea used elsewhere; (a picture paints a thousand words. I don't have a picture handy, so here's a thousand words)
    I used three plates, we're talking 17years ago so memory is a bit sketchy but I think I cut the plates from a length of 12x100mm mild steel flat bar. One plate on top of the axle, one between the axle and the spring, one below the spring. The plates above and below the spring have a centre hole drilled, large enough to fit over the head of the spring centre bolt (I replaced the centre bolts with HT socket-head capscrews, the round bolt head locates nicely in the plate centre hole; the plate needs to be thick enough that the bolt head does not sit proud). The three plates were welded in a stack for drilling, and a rectangular pattern of 4 holes was drilled with a 1/2" drill. The holes are spaced to fit snugly against the sides of the axle one way and the sides of the spring leaves the other way (so the spacing is equal to spring width plus 1/2" one way, axle width plus 1/2" the other way). The resulting stack (plate, spring leaves, plate, axle, plate) is clamped together with four 1/2" HT hex bolts and nylocs. The spring centre bolt locates the plate (and thus the axle) by the head being registered in the centre hole of the middle plate and the nut registering in the same way in the bottom plate.
    I have carried four spare 1/2" x 6" HT hex bolts and nylocs all around this country over the past 17 years without ever needing one. Pre-trip check always includes a check of the bolts but they have never budged.

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