Loss of BT connection or false triggers from other light sources, just for starters.
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Loss of BT connection or false triggers from other light sources, just for starters.
I have a samsung smart watch that is connected to my phone via bluetooth and it has never lost connection in the 11 months I have had the watch - except where I have left the phone somewhere and the phone beeps more than 30m when you are away or when I have turned the phone off. So the reliability is there and I am sure the authorities would have tested this aspect.Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ian
I am not sure what this false triggers from other light sources is as the system activates when it detects activation of the brakes via the hardwiring of the brake light system. So yes if the brake switch on the brake pedal is not working the trailer brakes will not work.
I think you are looking for issues that are not there.
Garry
The ones we use (probably the same as Kennards) aren’t actually Bluetooth, but a specific frequency designated to that controller and brake setup - they are a pair - the controller and receiver on the trailer - everyone at work calls them Bluetooth as well but they aren’t. Ours our fully approved and legal to use, can’t comment about others and we were told by VicRoads that some controllers aren’t legal - a lot of actual Bluetooth stuff - phone based apps mostly.
Vicroads are VERY conservative so if they’re happy with them, then I don’t see any issue. I should think they’ve been tested very carefully.
I haven't heard of these before, but I've been researching them this morning and what a fantastic idea they have come up with.
I tow my 2.9t trailer with both our L322 and Freelander 2 and I installed a brake controller in both. The family like to use it as well but their cars don't have controllers so not really legal.
But as usual in Australia we get screwed on the price. It's looking like $700 for an Aust unit. But cheaper in the US.
I was looking at the Echo unit in the US for $350AUD and then buy some US tailer sockets and plugs from Amazon, a meter or so of trailer wire and make the adaptors to fit. I think I could get that done for under $400 and have the bonus of having it portable. I don't think you could just have it swinging in the breeze and would have to mount it with a couple of large cable ties to the trailer drawbar.
https://www.amazon.com/CURT-51180-Co.../dp/B07JQ99SDD
Are you able to say the make/model you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
If I could remember yeah, no dramas... [bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray377
Will check next week, I won't see one until then sorry.
Hi jayray337Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray377
Hopefully this answers your question.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d370a4c816.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d3255cd4c0.jpg
The internal unit plugs into the cigarette lighter plug. Seemed to work ok on the 20km trip home. Let’s see on the 1200km trip tomorrow.
Cheers - Simon
Excellent, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by travelrover
Just a couple of observations having spent 18 hours with the thing yesterday. For some reason it requires your headlights to be on to work, no issue for me as I always drive with them on.Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray377
So after an hour or so on the road it starts beeping an alert saying turn on headlights... this is 5am and still dark so lights obviously on. I pull over on the Putty Rd and check all the electrical fittings. All ok so we proceed but the alerting continues for another 30 mins or so and then just stops. It recommences an hour further on but again self clears. Once we had stopped and refueled it never returned. I guess with vehicle power off it may have reset something (it does have internal batteries).
The other point to note is the screen is very bright and has no means of adjusting and this becomes distracting after a few hours.
Other than that, and the fact we were not provided any instructions on how to use the thing it appears to work without incident as we made it home alive.
Cheers - Simon
I'd imagine the headlights on is to avoid the false triggers that concerned me. Imagine hitting a patch of fog and turning on the rear fog lights of a D2, the show would promptly grind to a halt.
How does the breakaway work?