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Thread: 3.5 Tonne Capacity Car Trailer: is Longer & Wider Better?

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    with the size .... go as long and wide as you possibly can. it'll be a bastard to store .... and a pig of thing to back down drives (to get a 2meter tray, you end up 2.5meters with the wheels/guards overall). I say go as long and wide as you can as you will find a good 80% of the times you use the trailer it is to move something "long"... For example a length of timber from bunnings. My trailer hasn't moved a car in probably 2 years.... but it is probably used at least once a month to move something "long" or "wide". eg it currently has a 5meter roller door sitting on it as I spotted one of facebook marketplace with all the tracks/brackets for $100 .... what a cheap way of covering the south wall of the carport so the rain doesn't blow through the entire length of it all winter!
    The only problem with DC's advice is---

    you can then fit anything on it,,,

    like mangled ZA fairlanes, and rusty F100's, and----

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  2. #42
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    I prefer longer and wider as it is just simply more versatile.
    Mine was built with a ATM of 3000kg which i got upgraded to to 3300kg with no changes needed. Tare is 950kg with a hand winch, spare and ramps.
    It is 16 foot long and 7'8 wide to the outside of the guards, so still squeezes in an 8 foot gate.
    It has the front axle at the physical midway point so you can load it up and still have a VERY stable 120kg ball weight if you want too. The beavertail still allows loading of fairly low cars without dramas.
    Best one I have ever used.
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  3. #43
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    Thats a ripper looking trailer. It looks nice an low too (walking beam suspension?). I've rented a beaver tail trailer a couple of times and gave up on them pretty quickly. There was no way of getting my cars on them as they'd wedge there belly trying to come over the top lip of the beaver section (my usage is kinda unique though. The cars have a 124" wheelbase and 1/2 inch of ground clearance with fully inflated tires).

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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by janddbone View Post
    I prefer longer and wider as it is just simply more versatile.
    Mine was built with a ATM of 3000kg which i got upgraded to to 3300kg with no changes needed. Tare is 950kg with a hand winch, spare and ramps.
    It is 16 foot long and 7'8 wide to the outside of the guards, so still squeezes in an 8 foot gate.
    It has the front axle at the physical midway point so you can load it up and still have a VERY stable 120kg ball weight if you want too. The beavertail still allows loading of fairly low cars without dramas.
    Best one I have ever used.
    Guessing it’s not a fast trip towing it with the Dyna huh? 😁😉

    Great trailer. 👍
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Guessing it’s not a fast trip towing it with the Dyna huh? 😁😉

    Great trailer. 👍
    I previously had a Dyna 200 twincab as a work truck. 3.0 lt asthmatic diesel. It could sit on 80 without much load but if I put the plant trailer and scissor on behind it, it was a real slug.
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  6. #46
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    We had one as our main pumper at a large CFA station - there was a steep hill just outside the station and if you had to go that way when turning out you could just about get out and walk faster until you got to the top. 3.5 Tonne Capacity Car Trailer: is Longer & Wider Better?

    Quite embarrassing when you have lights and sirens on and holding up traffic behind you.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  7. #47
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    I've got myself a duel axle 2.9t, max width at 2.48m, 4.55m (15') bed, 2.07m usable width, tilting tray, ramps, winch, spare with electric breakaway brakes I bought brand new from Pacific trailers on the Gold Coast a few years ago for $4400.

    I haven't had it on a weigh bridge but the tally plate says it has a tare of 800kg. So capable of 2.1t load in theory.

    It's pretty well made with decent welds and fitment and tows well, the only thing that lets it down over the years has been the paint durability.

    A 110 with a curb weight of 2055kg would just squeeze in legally.

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  8. #48
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    Interesting thread,

    No one has really touched on the ATM weight and GCM towing mass of trailers with loads.

    I myself have toyed with the idea of purchasing a good car trailer. I don't think I'd make it too long but I would put sides on it for strength.

    I currently have 2 trailers, a 7x4 box trailer and a 10x6 tandem with rocker suspension. I have often thought about just modifying the tandem make it 2 or 3 foot longer. I reckon that would be enough for me. It needs a birthday anyway so maybe that would work.

    I'd change the brakes to 4 wheel electric whilst I was at it (currently 2 wheel electric). I guess getting a new compliance plate stamped would be the the tricky bit.

    Most of the old bangers I would be towing would be 1.5 tonne (ish). My old 1966 falcon wagon , ex army s2a, series 2 swb. I'd use my 1984 110 as the tow rig.

    Having a trailer which can be used for other things (as mentioned before in this thread) is key for making it worthy of ownership.

    Richard

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by dickyjoe View Post
    Interesting thread,

    No one has really touched on the ATM weight and GCM towing mass of trailers with loads.

    I myself have toyed with the idea of purchasing a good car trailer. I don't think I'd make it too long but I would put sides on it for strength.

    I currently have 2 trailers, a 7x4 box trailer and a 10x6 tandem with rocker suspension. I have often thought about just modifying the tandem make it 2 or 3 foot longer. I reckon that would be enough for me. It needs a birthday anyway so maybe that would work.

    I'd change the brakes to 4 wheel electric whilst I was at it (currently 2 wheel electric). I guess getting a new compliance plate stamped would be the the tricky bit.

    Most of the old bangers I would be towing would be 1.5 tonne (ish). My old 1966 falcon wagon , ex army s2a, series 2 swb. I'd use my 1984 110 as the tow rig.

    Having a trailer which can be used for other things (as mentioned before in this thread) is key for making it worthy of ownership.

    Richard
    Compliance is easy for this in Vic - get a new plate - from a trailer shop or eBay - mark the brand as ‘Home made’, get a new VIN off VicRoads (free of charge - call them and they’ll give you one over the phone), get a weigh bridge certificate for it and take it in and re register it as a new trailer, job done. You can then tell them what the gross mass will be too.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Thats a ripper looking trailer. It looks nice an low too (walking beam suspension?). I've rented a beaver tail trailer a couple of times and gave up on them pretty quickly. There was no way of getting my cars on them as they'd wedge there belly trying to come over the top lip of the beaver section (my usage is kinda unique though. The cars have a 124" wheelbase and 1/2 inch of ground clearance with fully inflated tires).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Its only roller rocker, however I have always found it low enough for me. I have put plenty of low pommy stuff on it with no problems. I have actually dragged a couple of wrecks up on it with no wheels/axles and although a little sketchy, I take it off the ball and it sits on its rear panel easy as so is almost flat with the ramps on still or only a four inch lip without. I have a double jockey wheel setup, a set of timber chocks between the axles plus the handbrake and use the breakaway cable to apply the electric brakes. So it does not roll at all. Then just use the chains to control the upward movement as a back up. Not that it can go anywhere when it bottoms out anyway.

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