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Thread: Ramps Length for 10 x 7 Foot Box Trailer

  1. #1
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Ramps Length for 10 x 7 Foot Box Trailer

    Hello All,

    I have a galvanised 10 x 7 foot (3 x 2.1 M) flat top trailer that did not come with any ramps and I would like to make some.

    I will be putting a winch on so I can skull-drag things like rolling chassis onto the trailer. Some of the rolling chassis have wide Sunraysia rims fitted - so a wide track would be good.

    Another use of the trailer will be to collect parts of motor vehicles found in paddocks.

    Is there any formula for the length of an ideal ramp? Or it the case where the length of ramp is simply restricted to the length of the trailer.

    What dimensions, including wall thickness, would you recommend for the steel ramp?

    Thank you.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  2. #2
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    Ramps Length for 10 x 7 Foot Box Trailer

    What’s the height to top of deck??

    How long is your drawbar?

    Given trailer is short and high I’d have the ramps stored up the centre utilizing the draw bar.

    Flat top is so handy when picking up pallets.

  3. #3
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello W & KO

    I bought a flat top trailer particularly for being able to load on pallets. It seems that this is now a basic requirement for a lot of places. For example, an industrial pallet racking outlet in Brisbane. If a load cannot be put on with a fork lift do not bother going there to get loaded.

    Okay, trailer height to be flush with the top of the deck is 740 mm. From outside edge of the tailgate to the centre of the spare tyre mount - which lays down flat on top of the draw bar is 3800 mm.

    I also have a square hollow section frame and round pipe headboard and will be installing similar design tailboard - builder's racks.

    To store the ramps under the floor I would have to cut a slot through an apron at the front and at the back of the trailer. Plus I would build a number of frames to reinforce the trailer and to secure the ramps to.

    I intend to get a toolbox mounted on the draw bar to store the winch battery and miscellaneous towing equipment . The current position of the spare tyre may have to subsequently change.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
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    Not sure if my explanation will make sense
    But I would do the following

    Leave head board on place
    Make front tool box between headboard and spare tyre with about a 15-20 degree taper
    Front box at back width of headboard - short tapered sides about 500-600

    Now lose the current drop side

    Out of Ally (so they don’t weigh a metric **** tonne)
    Ramp/ sides which are 3000 then the 15-20 degree angle and another 600 ... so overall length of 3600mm but with a kick in them.

    Now you have long ramps with a kick so you only have a steep pull for a short distance then a long slope for the longer pull

    S

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    Lionel,

    I have a set of (commercially made) 3mt alloy ramps you can borrow if you need them. As both my plant and car trailers have fold-up ramps, I have not used them for a while. If nothing else you can get an idea if that length (3mts) works for you.


    edit. similar to these (ggogle pic)

    3t alloy ramps.jpg
    PaulT

    REMLR 256 / SLOw 4 (P)

    W/Shops/trailers & GS's
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    so you will be skulldragging something on wheels?
    no wheels, then a more slick ramp surface--
    weight/capacity of trailer?

    ramps that fold up/hinge at the rear are great for storage, tend to rattle, are an extra security strap and easy to use and remove,
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    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    so you will be skulldragging something on wheels?
    no wheels, then a more slick ramp surface--
    weight/capacity of trailer?

    ramps that fold up/hinge at the rear are great for storage, tend to rattle, are an extra security strap and easy to use and remove,
    Hello Pedro,

    Thank you for the reply.

    The trailer is rated at 2000 kg. A number of times I have used a hand winch and chains to drag stuff up closer to the trailer.

    Once it is close enough I have a ute crane that I have used to lift things up into the trailer.

    Not having had an electric winch before ramps that would allow things to slide up would be a benefit. Otherwise I would lift the load up and position it on a pallet with the crane. Having ramps that would allow things to be slid up with a winch would increase my handling options.

    Once I get the load home I have no issues unloading it because I have a mobile crane in my shed. It is the retrieval and loading of stuff that requires flexibility to achieve.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

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    I guess you have to work out the ramp over angle of the rolling chassis’s, than make ramp long enough for the rolling chassis to clear the apex.

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    Then there's always the option, if the ramps are too steep, the run the rear wheels of the tow vehicle up onto a set of car ramps and thereby lowering the rear of the trailer.

  10. #10
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Not sure if my explanation will make sense
    But I would do the following

    Leave head board on place
    Make front tool box between headboard and spare tyre with about a 15-20 degree taper
    Front box at back width of headboard - short tapered sides about 500-600

    Now lose the current drop side

    Out of Ally (so they don’t weigh a metric **** tonne)
    Ramp/ sides which are 3000 then the 15-20 degree angle and another 600 ... so overall length of 3600mm but with a kick in them.

    Now you have long ramps with a kick so you only have a steep pull for a short distance then a long slope for the longer pull

    S
    Hello S,

    Is the following close to what you described?

    The current drop-sides are taken off and replaced with aluminium hybrid sides that are removable and can be used as the ramps.

    The 3 metre run is straight to form the trailer side. After the cargo area the ramp/side then dog legs and extends another 600 mm. This dogleg forms what becomes top of the ramps .

    The tool box is similarly tapered to accommodate the kicked ramp/sides on either side of the tool box.

    How did I go?

    Kind regards
    Lionel

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