It's more than mildly interesting it's great heaps of detail and reasons why things are done plenty of room to move. I want to learn to weld so plenty of information and ideas here
Printable View
Metals is finally in! Boxed up the light boxes with some 50x5 flat MS. I thought it might be cool to make a brace for the sides also to help stop them from flexing around a bit, so continued the outside of the frame for the light box up on an angle to meet the trailer enclosure. Then I thought a couple more might look cool as well. Extra bracing, aerodynamic for a box and a bit Mad Max in its styling. Hopefully they don't reject it at rego... I guess I'll sheet it and add LED lights if they do. Something different.
Attachment 169247
All of the four vehicles in my sig have 16's but my trailers have 6 stud so are only compatible with the blue ute (LC60 axles), but the blue one doesn't have a conventional towbar and so cant tow normal trailers anyway. Oh well.
Maybe 18's or 20's for the Disco2 one day..... but that one day might be a million days away. I'd like to fit a big brake kit which would need 18's, but that needs a bigger engine to go with it.
Good job Slunnie. Watching with interest.
Added an additional rope rail, this one just skirts around the bottom. this will give just a low tie point and help stop stuff smashing into the sides. All of the rails are now fully welded in. The floor has now been welded in, just around the outsides, but not underneath yet - I wasn't ready to get burnt today! :lol2:
Attachment 169321
I started to sheet the thing... I had been wondering if the walls being 1mm thick was too thick. After hitting it with the welder, I'm now wondering if the walls are too thin!! They wont take much heat when welding, thats for sure and they move around a lot when welding also. It's obviously been a while since I've sheeted a trailer. I've sheeted the front and both rear doors. They still need more work, but its a start. The sides will be a nightmare I suspect. Its about now that I'm regreting doing the rear light cluster all Mad Max. :bangin: I'll pay for that one later!
Attachment 169320
After a few days of neglect, I finally got around to cutting the sides in. It was a pretty straight forward process cutting the sides around the rear light housing, and it came out reasonably well. I'm sure it could have stuffed up very easily but luck was on my side. Both sides are on and hanging with tack welding across the tops of both sheets, but they still require welding all round. Now it has a skin around it, it's sort of mysterious as to what is on the inside... maybe its a couple of girls jelly wrestling, maybe its secret drinking bar, perhaps a portal to another universe, could it be full of bullion, but more likely its just a pair of checker plate mud guards that are waiting to get welded on.. :lol2:
Attachment 169413
It's been a while, a little sidetracked with other projects. The axle has been swapped out for one that is 75mm longer to accomodate the Hilux 17" rims which have a different offset compared to the Hilux 16" splittie that were on it. It's still a 1500kg 45mm cable disk brake setup. The sheet was tacked in place and then tacked all around the outside. To try to prevent movement, the sheet was also tacked on the inside. The sheet is held on with tacking as it wont take the temperature of stitch welding without blowing apart. It's not a great way of doing things, but I'm hoping that if my 20year old trailer which is done like this is able to stay together, then hopefully this one will also. The floor is stitch welded in, this was done with a standard 25mm/200mm.
Attachment 171792
Just how the interior turned out, the lid has been flipped up a bit in the RHS pic. I'm thinking after the trailer has the finished applied that the lid will have an opaque polycarbonate cover put on it to allow light into the box. The flip lid is held down with a few overcentre latches
Attachment 171790 Attachment 171789
This trailer gets external sprung sliding bolts to lock the doors. I'm doing it this way so that the locks are accesible and the doors are better supported when there is load against them. The lower cross member has a flange welded onto it that the sliding bolts will go through - I will round off the corners later. Top cross-member will be replaced with a totally new redesigned part, the current one is in place just to support the carcass during construction.
Attachment 171791
Will you need to apply a thick spray-on or stick-on coating to the insides of the walls to dampen flexing?