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Thread: Quick Trailer Bearing Question

  1. #1
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    Quick Trailer Bearing Question

    Just threading my off road camper trailer bearings. It’s only 2 years old and I’ve finally gotten around to doing it. Not sure how it kept rolling to be honest, the manufacturer definitely hadn’t put much grease in them.

    Still... I’ve put in new bearings and race cones, greased the bearings and reassembled. What I don’t know (as this is the 1st time I’ve ever done a trailer bearing) is: how tight do I do to the main nut that holds the hub onto the axle (the one with the split pin holding it in)? When I disassembled it (I used a large shifter as I don’t have a 37mm socket) it wasn’t very tight.

    I’ve done it tighter than finger tight but not super tight. Plus of course I had to turn the nut so it lines up with the split pin hole. The wheel is currently still off, and there doesn’t seem to be any movement in the hub, but it does still spin round.
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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    I do mine by cinching up with the spanner to about 10 ft ponds ie not tight, spin the wheel a few times to make sure they are bedded properly then back 1/2 to one flat to line up split pin.
    regards PhilipA

    btw you don’t need too much grease,just push it through the bearing until it comes out the other side and a bit smeared around that.Do not fill the hub with grease as it achieves nothing.

    I have had my camper trailer 15 years and replaced bearings only once or twice so it must work.

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    How tight you do up that nut is important as it is what gives preload to the bearings. It is something that is acquired by hands-on teaching so if you have someone nearby who knows what they're doing, best thing would be to have them show you. My standard practise is to do it up firmly to make sure everything is seated, then back it off and tighten it again so that it just touches and then is nicked up slightly to align the split pin. Very hard to explain the correct feel I'm afraid. Tighter than finger tight but not super tight, no movement in the hub, still spins...sounds like you're not far from spot-on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    you don’t need too much grease,just push it through the bearing until it comes out the other side and a bit smeared around that.Do not fill the hub with grease as it achieves nothing.
    Thats what the guy from the trailer shop told me also. I packed the bearings that way, some grease on my hand and rubbed it in until it came out the other side. The original bearings didn't have that much grease in them, plus I would pieces of the seal inside the hub when I moved the hub.
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    How tight you do up that nut is important as it is what gives preload to the bearings. It is something that is acquired by hands-on teaching so if you have someone nearby who knows what they're doing, best thing would be to have them show you. My standard practise is to do it up firmly to make sure everything is seated, then back it off and tighten it again so that it just touches and then is nicked up slightly to align the split pin. Very hard to explain the correct feel I'm afraid. Tighter than finger tight but not super tight, no movement in the hub, still spins...sounds like you're not far from spot-on.
    Thanks for the advice, I'll do that.
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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    I'm similar with the bearings, rub the grease into the bearings by hand, I do load the hub centre with grease so that it pushs out through the bearings, there is not a problem if there is too much grease, but there is a problem if it runs dry. Considering you will probably never strip it again, it doesn't matter if you use 1/8 of the tub or 1/4 of the tub. Wheel bearings, I also do up so that its firm to spin, and give it a good spin to seat the bearings and then back it off. I do the remaining hub nut tension up so that the wheel bearing is only just starting to resist spinning like it the tension is just on the bearing and then it will run in when you start towing it. If there is any slop in the wheel bearing then it's too loose. Check it periodically after a new installation as the bearing wears in, you may need to nip it up a bit. Don't forget the split pin, I've seen that a couple of times! For the dust cap (Slimline), tap it on with a short offcut of 50x50 RHS, it will pick up on the flanges on the outside so you can tap them back on without smashing the top in.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


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    Quick Trailer Bearing Question

    Thanks Slunnie. I couldn’t help wonder why they don’t install a bearing system that incorporates grease nipples. I’m sure there’s a good reason, I just couldn’t think of any!

    Good tip about rechecking the nut tightness after a few km’s, I hadn’t thought of that.
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post
    Thanks Slunnie. I couldn’t help wonder why they don’t install a bearing system that incorporates grease nipples. I’m sure there’s a good reason, I just couldn’t think of any!

    Good tip about rechecking the nut tightness after a few km’s, I hadn’t thought of that.
    Good question. I can only assume it is because the hub will hold a reservoir of grease where most parts that have grease nipples only contain the grease in the joint or bearing.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


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  9. #9
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    Hubcaps with grease nipples are available (and a spring loaded plunger) for boat trailers that are regularly submerged. There should be no free play, but if too tight the bearings will overheat. I find good practice is whenever towing any distance, to stop after a kilometre or so and feel the temperature of the trailer hubs - they should be the same temperature, and not above other ambient unless it is a braked wheel and you have been using brakes.

    The usual reason for trailer bearings failing is water ingress.
    John

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    What JD said, no matter how tight you must check them for heat down the road, looseness is easy to check for, just push/pull the top of the tyre.
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