Yes its another " want to build a camper trailer" post.

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Originally Posted by Rob Bruce

Ahhhh, mine goes like this, wheels slightly back of centre, draw bar longer than normal, this makes it back real easy. and stable going forward, landcriser 60 or 75 series front leaf springs with 1.5 t 45mm axel [ to take a real beating] . high sides, water tank under but not in vunrible place, room for 3 jerrys at front on draw bar then spair wheel, off road coupling, mud gards with side protection a must, canvas torno cover fitted. this is a home made one with some help with a frends sheet metal folder, excluding labour and wheels and springs which I had it cost about $400. cheep ay. best of all I have not been able to destroy it yet. Oh nearly forgot the back opens to form a kitchen etc the rest of the space is for gear and tent ect.

Rob

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Sounds like what i have in mind, trailer was $147 off ebay, i already have 10 x spare D1 steel rims, the drawbar is already long enough as it has a spare laying flat on it, i have a 45mm axle and hubs that are transit van pattern which is the same as LR, i also have a spare disco spare wheel carrier that i will bolt to drawbar. Just need to get new larger guards ($62pr in CP from trailer place ) and some tube for a tie rail. So i reckon another $200 should have it done minus things like a water tank /kitchen etc. Springs i will wait till its all made and then see how it sits.

Now you are talking, go for it and do it :BigThumb::BigThumb:

Rob

Made a start on the weekend by grinding off the brackets that had been welded on to carry a small cat, i will be extending the height of the sides and though of widening the top as well. Its a 6x4 trailer but i might make it flare out where i add the extra height so that it is 6ft wide, not sure if there is any advantage to this ?
Also broke off the plywood that was used for sides and f/r tailgates so i'm now left with a steel frame of 50mm angle, 37.5mm and 25mm rhs frame to which i will either clad with steel or maybe alloy CP ? floor will be steel though. Tips from those who have been down this rd are appreciated.

Hi Mate
PICS!!!!!
Sounds like a good project,soon as Im not doing firewood I will be starting mine.
Wouldnt worry about mixing alloy CP into it.
Small weight saving for more fixing dramas.
Andrew

I only thought of ally cp as the sides are 25mm rhs frames so i thought i could just clad the outside with ally but maybe gal or mild sheet will be easier (and cheaper) but then i will either have exposed framework inside or outside unless i clad both sides ? I will take some pics and start a thread in the projects section on the weekend.

I am looking at building a trailer using a s/wagon rear tub, s/wagon rear doors (without window frame) for access to storage or slide out draws/kitchen, coil axle (without centre) with a-frame and t-arms, rear of 110 chassis from springs back, and putting a roof top tent on top.

I have the tub, chassis rear, axle, disco wheels.

what is the weakest or most stressed point in a trailer chassis?

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Originally Posted by rar110

I am looking at building a trailer using a s/wagon rear tub, s/wagon rear doors (without window frame) for access to storage or slide out draws/kitchen, coil axle (without centre) with a-frame and t-arms, rear of 110 chassis from springs back, and putting a roof top tent on top.

I have the tub, chassis rear, axle, disco wheels.

what is the weakest or most stressed point in a trailer chassis?

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I would say the draw bar but it if its balanced correctly it shouldnt be any more stressed than the rest of the frame - offroad would stress the drawbar though.