My camper trailer build - a different approach?

120kgs is a fair whack,,
thats one ( and only? ) of the disadvantages of a long drawbar. Mines about the same length but with the water tank behind the axel, I run it full all the time as a counterweight.

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

120kgs is a fair whack,,
thats one ( and only? ) of the disadvantages of a long drawbar. Mines about the same length but with the water tank behind the axel, I run it full all the time as a counterweight.

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I bet it tows nicely - long draw bar and any heavy weight behind the axle is in close....

Thats why you need to do the sums at design time, as I said I'm aiming for 120kg (loaded but no boat) and from weighing the constructed unit it's going to be nearly spot on.

harlie are you a trailer builder? you have a great eye for detail...................?

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Originally Posted by geckos

harlie are you a trailer builder? you have a great eye for detail...................?

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I’ll take that as a complement. :BigThumb:

Answer to your Q is no.
I have built a couple of boat trailers (one huge one) and modified heaps others but it has only ever been my own gear or favours to help out friends. Add another as this project will include a folding boat trailer (for the 4.2m tinnie) complete with ind coil suspension, plans are complete, to be built after campers are finished. This is my first go at a camper...

I did up a set of chassis plans for mechanically controlled air suspension for these trailers that would have been really cool but completely unnecessary.

I now work in an inner city office with a keyboard and mouse, have soft hands and just had a major health scare that landed me in hospital for several days. That (mainly but also) combined with family commitments are the reasons why this project has temporarily stalled...:BigCry:

Just a hobby project that started with, We can do that.

Hi Again...

Well it's been a long time between sessions of work on the campers - a full house reno (we then moved haha), and the arrival of baby #2 taking priority. However, while I was preoccupied BIL has complete trailer #2 to the same stage as #1 - beauty!

We've worked over two days. Firstly the tailgates were fitted and then all body parts lined up and sprayed - etch primer and two coats of enamel.
Finally we are at the stage that one looks forward to - put it all together. Doors, lids and tailgate back on. Latches fitted, pinch weld seals fitted, lights fitted and wired. I'm quite happy with the finished trailer. #2 is yet to be assembled.

This morning I took #1 for rego via the weighbridge - all up it is 390kg (I then found out I didn't need a weighbridge cert). Also found out that being a camper trailer (sub class of caravan) they want the Tare Mass to include the tent structure - after 5 phone calls during the week to ensure I had everything covered I was only finding this out now:mad:... thankfully the helpful operator at QT Cleveland passed it through adding the weight to the tare entry and 400mm to the height dimension. We know for #2 to have the tent fitted prior to rego.

So we are back to it with a renewed level of enthusiasm. Major items todo - Fit the tent, fit the house electrics, finish the boat racks, build the kitchen.

Looks great, now it is testing time ;)

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Originally Posted by harlie

Hi, I would like to share, with those who are interested, our build project that I’m quite proud of – well so far anyway J . We (Brother In-law and I) are building two near identical units, only difference is the suspension capacity. The heavier of the two will eventually have a removable boat rack and loading system (a system I think I can say you will not have seen before - more on that much later).

Initial Requirements – A comfortable camper suitable for family of 2+2 with all the common inclusions + the provision to transport my 4.1m tinnie and foldable boat trailer… While looking at buying a camper/caravan to suite our needs it was decided that the conventional Tent Camper Trailer with the addition of the necessary boat carrying equipment is the most suitable. We have decided to use an aluminium body mounted on a steel chassis.
The Main box is 2180*1260, with storage lockers full length both sides and there will be a 720mm toolbox on the front integrated with the body. The draw bar is long, it would measure 2.4m from the front of a standard box.

Design.
This is where our approach is (I think) a little different. I sketched the basic design and all its pieces, tweaked many times, My wife then transferred the sketches to CAD, made sure that everything will fit and specified structural members and quantities – there was about 7 versions/updates to the CAD drawings and 3D model of the body. We now have detailed drawings of every component needed, we guillotined & folded the aluminium sheet as per drawings (never done it before – thanks to a friend of a friend of a friend for the use of his work shop) and what a learning curve that’s been… This design has been made simple using 2400*1500 sheets ($107 each).

So now all the ally bits a cut and folded - hope they fit:(.

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what program did you use to do those drawings they are surperb.awesome project

one to cross off the list.

Next - kitchen, which I've been trying to avoid... I'm thinking of something similar to the Drifter pull out units...

That is a fantastic result, well done!

JC

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Originally Posted by harlie

Hi Steve
I’ve seen a coupling fracture/crack, it was because it was std bolt on unit that had been welded, it should shear a bolt well before the casting lets go. The weld-on ones and 4 bolt ones will pop off (bend the locking tag) before they crack - this is why guys with a 3rd wheel up the boat trailer draw bar use a poly block - because of the upward pressure when the rear of car is bogged - not articulation.... So be interesting to know the quality of casting, what had been done with it, and what he was doing.

I’ve been travelling the beaches with trailers between Noosa and Bundy for over 30years and when we go to Fraser, we usually head away from the crowds and go right to the Cape so it’s not as if we are just dropping off the barge and stopping there... Never had a problem with a ball coupling. Mind you I’m one of the “Idiots” that just pokes along the East beach at 60-70kph so when we get to a wash out I can pull-up, then proceed through at a suitable place and speed – and I’ve been abused by the heroes that scream around when I slow and subsequently hit the wash out at huge speeds because they can’t even see it until its way to late (Apparently it’s not their fault when damage is caused).

I admit that the ball has limitations compared to the block but what I‘m going to be doing with this trailer is no different to what my Farther has been doing since the 60s without a poly block – he’s still using the same trailer (now slightly modified) that he was before I was born!!! His 1969 FJ40 L’Cruiser is on its 4th engine but it still has the original 50mm ball that was fitted when the old (1 7/8 inch) size went out of fashion.

It’s not the $200-300 that’s my issue here, as you can see I’ve thrown some coin at this project and $300 is not going to make much difference. For me – I don’t want to have to change back and forth with another towbar, I’ve used a poly bock in the past and found it a pain in the a*se to couple up – it’s OK with a camper but try a 3t boat on uneven grass on your own (which I nearly always are). So I would need two towbars and change it for different trailers (this one will make 4 that I own) – I simply don’t want to do that if I don’t need to. I think the point here is that this decision is based on experience and knowledge of MY intended use and that I just don’t want one if it isn’t needed – believe me this has been talked about a lot leading up to this. If I’m proven wrong it will be changed.

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Crikey Mate how did Dad stop the FJ40 from rusting away over all those years...smothered it in Oil.:o
By the way great job on the campers.
John.