Thread: New Project...

Bias Tyre - Super Traction look similar Beadell Tours : MRF Tyres - Bias & All Steel Radials

Take a picture with you and check with a few tyre places and see what they can get. 7.00 x 16 can be harder to source than 7.50 x 16 but I'm not sure whether you should fit the wider tyres to your rims (I think you need LWB rims for 7.50 tyres).

Keep an eye on the 'ply rating' you are offered. 6 or 8 ply is OK but Light Truck tyres can be up to 16 ply which can make the ride harsh.


Colin

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It's coming along magnificently, it's a credit to you

Hi All,

Well thanks to bacicat - aka "Super Gav" we have reached a milestone!

First small job - remove the front pulley in preparation for paint:


Next job - flywheel cover removed and cleaned:



Engine has had all gaskets, seals replaced (including the rear main seal) and a new clutch fitted. New engine mounts, carby re-furbished, etc:



And finally.....



The engine is now back where it belongs! Thanks Gav!

(Naturally I provided technical assistance on the day).

Just to add a bit of detail about the engine. We ran it before it was removed, and even with the carby the way it was, it ran well, and didn't blow any smoke, thus it was decided not to delve into the internals. My thoughts on the engine seem to have been confirmed when we did the rear main and found the main bearing shell on the back to be in very good condition - very little wear, and no scoring. I think it will be a little gem.

Looking good GG! Engine looks a million dollars!

That looks sharp, well done

It's a good feeling when you find the engines better than you thought it might be Mine still came apart, but everything inside was good, and knowing that is a bit of reassurance if anything

You are so close now!!!

Roger looks fantastic

Hi All,

Well I have not been happy with the way that the passenger side door hangs, so I removed the door and I believe that I have discovered the problem.

The section of the a-pillar where the top hinge attaches is dinted inwards - which brings the door closer to the car than it should be, out of alignment and it causes the door to pinch the rubber channel/lip on the leading edge of the door. It's hard to explain... Basically - the door hangs poorly..

Here is a picture of the a-pillar. I have tried to highlight the dint in yellow - there is a shadow, and the dint is quite pronounced.


I have some old/spare floor section, I am not sure how thick it is. My theory was that I would cut a shim (or 2 depending on how deep the dint is) out of that. First shim:


Sometime later after using the bench grinder / drilling the holes:


When I test fitted the shim I noticed that the dint is not consistent. I assume that the car has had a hit / the door has been punished in some way, and it means that the dint is deeper in some sections. I thought about fitting the shim - but I am concerned that dirt/dust/grime/water will eventually find it's way behind the shim, get trapped, and eventually rust out the a-pillar.

I am not sure if my solution is the best one - but I added a layer of foam/rubber to the back of the shim:



I had to use slightly longer bolts - because of the shim:


And now fitted - you can't see much of the foam/rubber in this photo, as this side of the dint is deeper:


On this side you can see more of the rubber - as the dint is smaller:


I also added the rubber because I assume that I will get rust on the A-pillar because I am contacting 2 different metals (steel of the A-pillar, aluminum of the shim). Hopefully the rubber will prevent this.

I thought about applying bog to try and level out the dint, but I decided against it thinking that it could crack over time.

I am not sure that this is the best solution, fingers crossed let's see how it goes. I haven't finished adjusting the door, but at least now the door isn't pinching the lip of the rubber seal channel..

Cheers - and onto the next small project..