Thread: Rebuilding a Rover V8

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

No , I won't do that again




It Doesn't look it Tony , I've ordered a special Crowbar along with heap of other things and am going to keep trying to try & remove the intake Manifolds and the heads.

Sounds like it's not seeing your way of thinking They are a bit awkward to do in chassis So long as all is unbolted they should come with a block of wood and a heavy compact hamer
Be carefull with the crowie as is tempting to shove down a port and then start teeth gritting untill something gives. They also can do a lot of damage when thrown in a rage of temper

Good luck with it anyway.

Tony

Originally Posted by RoverP6B

A standard 4.6 will transform your Discovery, even more especially if you fit a high torque camshaft at the same time.

I have a custom ground high torque camshaft in my 4.6,...torque about pull!!

Ron.

Mate I have a 91 Disco with the 3.5 ltr and love it it has all the balls you need for a 4wd
I often pull others out at the sand dunes
they are already a high performance buick motor dont play too much or you will end up paying big dollars

Originally Posted by Marika

Mate I have a 91 Disco with the 3.5 ltr and love it it has all the balls you need for a 4wd
I often pull others out at the sand dunes
they are already a high performance buick motor dont play too much or you will end up paying big dollars

Originally Posted by Marika

Mate I have a 91 Disco with the 3.5 ltr and love it it has all the balls you need for a 4wd
I often pull others out at the sand dunes
they are already a high performance buick motor dont play too much or you will end up paying big dollars

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

X2

Hey Khos,

When we finally catch up I might just have the heads off mine. It's started to seep coolant out of the front of the passenger one and the rear to the drivers one and has now gone through about 5 litres of coolant in the past 3 weeks. It's not using oil though and there's no water in the oil, so I'm hoping I'll just be able to get away with giving the heads a once over and a new set of gaskets. Then again.... I do have some really nice alloy die grinder tips and a bigger cam would..... hmmm

Originally Posted by Boxer

Hey Khos,

When we finally catch up I might just have the heads off mine. It's started to seep coolant out of the front of the passenger one and the rear to the drivers one and has now gone through about 5 litres of coolant in the past 3 weeks. It's not using oil though and there's no water in the oil, so I'm hoping I'll just be able to get away with giving the heads a once over and a new set of gaskets. Then again.... I do have some really nice alloy die grinder tips and a bigger cam would..... hmmm

Hey Boxer, the composite gaskets can do this, I would replace with steel shim type as they will also give better compression being a little thinner...

JC

Seep? 5 litres?
That's more like pour.

Hey Boxer, the composite gaskets can do this, I would replace with steel shim type as they will also give better compression being a little thinner...

I am afraid I do not agree with this.
You have to have a really good head and block surface for tin gaskets to work so you will have to skim the heads.
Second the difference in thickness is pretty great (about 38 thou) and I think you will have trouble with the end seals on the valley gasket.
I have taken 50 thou off my tin heads and fitted composites, which is equivalent of 20 thou off the heads, and I do not seem to be able to get a good seal. I keep on splitting the rubber seals.
True my new composites drool a bit at the ends , usually as a result of hard work on a hot day, but I have used <100cc in about 25-30KK. I changed from tin to composites as my tin gaskets failed by seeping at the end.
Its seems its the same regardless of gasket type. I think the only fix would be to surface the block as I know they bend as they age.
Regard sPhilip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Seep? 5 litres?
That's more like pour.

I am afraid I do not agree with this.
You have to have a really good head and block surface for tin gaskets to work so you will have to skim the heads.
Second the difference in thickness is pretty great (about 38 thou) and I think you will have trouble with the end seals on the valley gasket.
I have taken 50 thou off my tin heads and fitted composites, which is equivalent of 20 thou off the heads, and I do not seem to be able to get a good seal. I keep on splitting the rubber seals.
True my new composites drool a bit at the ends , usually as a result of hard work on a hot day, but I have used <100cc in about 25-30KK. I changed from tin to composites as my tin gaskets failed by seeping at the end.
Its seems its the same regardless of gasket type. I think the only fix would be to surface the block as I know they bend as they age.
Regard sPhilip A

PHillip,

I have found that the quality of these seals has deteriated, IE the suppliers/ manufacturers seem to have made them too thick now. Even with composite head gaskets they split, so using a razor blade I carefully shave a bit off the wedge bit on the end so it has less crush when the intake manifold etc is tightened down. Obviously a dob of quality sealant is mandatory at each end of the valley seals. I do however use Composite valley gaskets, as these are great at sealing and have oval shaped holes for the bolts which helps with alignment.

I don't use ANY composite head gaskets on 3.9's etc now, as I was sick of removing the heads and replacing with steel shim ones due to coolant leaks- for free And before anyone says anything, I did use genuine Elring composites etc. AND I fit the steel shim ones using Hylomar as per factory instructions. Most recent one I did was a 3.9 into a RRC used(Read THRASHED)for off road racing. No leaks and if anything is going to this one will as the block has done 250+k and All I did was clean it off in my usual manner and check with a straight edge, all OK.

I'll continue to use steel ones until I see a problem, and this has been this way now for over 5 years.



JC