Thread: That Salisbury Pinion Seal

Hi Mark,

It requires a fair bit of force to crush that tube, you may find it difficult by hand lying under the vehicle. I have had to use my leg to push the socket bar around in the past....

Basically, you want to just preload the bearings, do it up until you JUST begin to feel a little drag on the pinion flange when rotating, then nip it a further 1/16th of a turn.

It is important if you used the original bearings to recheck the preload after a few hundred km I have found, You can usually get another small amount of a turn to reinstate the load and then all should be fine

JC

Not sure if it's any help now but I got my original pinion re-sleved and used one of the new seals. That way, you can still use the trick of marking up the position, etc...

That was 6+ yrs ago and it has been fine ever since!

M

Mark

Make sure when you fit the seal,that the lipped side goes in first.
Also when the spacer starts to collapse,it will collapse very quickly,so be careful that you don't overtighten it,or you will have to replace the crush tube again.
The specs are 17.3-34.5Kgf cm measured with a spring scale, when you are reusing the pinion bearings

Thanks Justin, Wayne and Mr M Dromedary ,
On account of there being roughly 6 or 7mm of crush needed to get the new spacer to match the old one, and Justin's tale of brute strength, i've put the old spacer back in with the other new bits, counted the turns as per the rule of thumb method and am hoping for the best. In daylight i'll pull the axles and have a feel for tightness and drag, might need to crack it tighter or back off a smidgeon.
Cheers,
Mark

no problems getting the leather seals, genuine from Rimmer brothers
Oil Seal - Differential Pinion - Salisbury Axles - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

or a lot cheaper
AEU 2515 - Oil Seal, Differential Pinion, Salisbury Axle

I went through this whole pinion seal early/late flange and different seal issue not long ago. I hope this can help someone in the future.

Firstly there are four types of seals and two flanges that will fit a LR Salisbury. These are combinations of:

1. Original leather seal and original flange - these are rubbish and will leak
2. As above but no leather as LR decided rubber was better - marginally better but still rubbish
3. Upgrade kit STC4403. Good as it adds the mudshield but the seal is not that great.
4. Upgrade kit STC4457. Not sure how this differs from the above.

Now you would think this is simple, just get STC4403 or STC4457 and change it all. But there's yet another seal AAU3381. Now this is a much improved seal and will actually last, you need to couple this with a flange that incorporates a mud shield. It will not fit the earlier flange as it will chew it out.

So in summary, always use AAU3381 and change the flange to one that incorporates a mud shield. As for torque and counting turns, just do what Justin said above, it worked for me.

Originally Posted by goingbush

no problems getting the leather seals, genuine from Rimmer brothers
Oil Seal - Differential Pinion - Salisbury Axles - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

or a lot cheaper
AEU 2515 - Oil Seal, Differential Pinion, Salisbury Axle

They are junk don't fit them upgrade the flange and fit the improved seal. This is how it should look once upgraded, much better than the original. You have a shield to stop dirt getting in there and a much better seal.

I replaced my leather seal about five or six years ago with a leather seal no leaks so far so I can't realy see what your all on about saying there crap check the breather this is the most likely cause