Defender Headlight Switch

**Dervish** · 3rd July 2015, 01:22 PM

A lot of people will have issues with their headlight switches at some point in the life of their Defender. Most of us have already been there. As is commonly noted when the resultant thread pops up here in the forum, the original switch is just no good. The main problem as I see it is that the switch does not have positive engagement; it doesn't click into place and so can be operating without the necessary pressure holding the contacts together. Without the necessary contact, the contacts heat up and melt the plastic they are set in. Once the plastic is melted, the contacts shift and the switch is kaput.

The common solution is to replace the switch, which works until it fails again. Unsatisfied with that approach, I set about finding a switch that is up to the task and will work in the existing spot on the column.

I found one in the Narva catalog that looked up to the task (P/N: 63216BL).

It fits nicely into the column, snug enough that it doesn't spin even if the retaining nut comes undone a little.

This switch clicks nicely into each positionand is rated for 20A at 12V so should even work in vehicles without headlight relays. Though you should install headlight relays, whether by using the Traxide kit or my tutorial here.

I have had this switch in my Defender for about a year now and it is still crisp and clicks satisfyingly into position - the sign of a good switch.

**Bearman** · 3rd July 2015, 07:55 PM

You only have issues with the headlight switch if you put bigger headlight bulbs and/or spotties through it. Put relays on both headlights and any spotties and you will never have a problem with the original switch. The plastic base that the contacts are in is the problem - with extra current it goes soft and the contacts then sink into it.

**BadCo.** · 3rd July 2015, 08:10 PM

Originally Posted by Bearman

You only have issues with the headlight switch if you put bigger headlight bulbs and/or spotties through it. Put relays on both headlights and any spotties and you will never have a problem with the original switch. The plastic base that the contacts are in is the problem - with extra current it goes soft and the contacts then sink into it.

Mine buggered out with normal globes.

As you know, Dervish, I followed what you have done and it has been going well for over 9 months. The other thing I did was cut the original rubber boot and slipped it in to make a nicer finish.

The only thing that annoys me is remembering which way to turn it, as its not my daily I have to stop and think every time haha.

Thanks again for the idea!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

schuy1 · 3rd July 2015, 09:10 PM

Mine died within 8mths,was replaced under warranty, only to die again 2mths out of warranty! I then worked out why it did it, installed a new switch and hd relay into the headlights and 15 yrs on it still lives!

Cheers Scott

**Leyland1980** · 3rd July 2015, 09:31 PM

This is not the solution to this problem, this is like identifying that there is a fire in the kitchen and getting a fire proof door!

**BadCo.** · 4th July 2015, 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by Leyland1980

This is not the solution to this problem, this is like identifying that there is a fire in the kitchen and getting a fire proof door!

Did you read everything?

MrLandy · 4th July 2015, 10:56 PM

...this one has lasted for years. Simple 3 position stainless steel toggle. Original lasted 10 years. (Original headlights only)

**PAT303** · 5th July 2015, 09:48 AM

Traxide kit fixes the problem and gives brighter headlights. Pat

**BadCo.** · 5th July 2015, 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by PAT303

Traxide kit fixes the problem and gives brighter headlights. Pat

As mentioned in the original post.

Seriously, does no one read everything properly?!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

**PAT303** · 5th July 2015, 04:06 PM

Originally Posted by BadCo.

As mentioned in the original post.

Seriously, does no one read everything properly?!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

We do read everything properly and no you haven't fixed anything,you still have the main current going through the light switch and the blinker assembly,the blinker assembly contacts will still melt leaving you with no headlights. Pat

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