Thread: After Market bits for servicing D2 ?

mmmm - not fussed either way - at the end of the day reliability and longevity is my concern regardless whether it's hi or low comp - i'd like to keep the landrover for a very very long time yet... i'll sus out the block tomorrow in daylight, too many creepy crawlies out at night round here!

On another note, I got in contact with supercheap and read back the 'recommended' spark plugs from the RAVE CD and asked what the equivalent was with the NGK brand in either the Iridium and platinum. He said that the Iridium wasn't recommended?? The platinum NGK related ref # is: pfr5g11 at $21.75 each if anyone is interested.

They also stock the Sensor Cleaner by CRC for $25.00 (don't think it's called MAF anymore?). Although it's cheaper at Repco for $21.00 believe it or not!

It's taken me a while to trawl through so much valuable information on AULRO and to be honest it has done my head in abit (a pregnant brain can only take so much in!) - it was the oils section that got me so think I will just be sticking to penrite and what ever is recommended in RAVE

Anyway - my landrover has hit a little over 231,000K and since having it for almost 12 months (mind you i've not even done 5000k in it!!) my list of TLC so far is:

1. oil / fluid changes
2. filter changes
3. new spark plugs
4. maybe new leads although the look pretty new... are leads stamped anywhere as to what manufacturer they are???
5. clean maf, test/diagnose and replace if necessary w/ new
6. check brake pads front/rear - replace if required
7. intermittent SRS airbag light -
8. driver side parker bulb blown again. not sure whether it's an electrical short somewhere but there is water getting into the lens so may need to look at those (seal or electrics)
9. replace clock bulb
10. cruise control needs checking as it 'use' to work
11. my own sanity check of each and every single fuse and replace if need be
12. windscreen washer reservoir - it doesn't like being filled to the top and just runs out from the bottom but still has water left in it so not sure what's going on there?
13. fuel filler flap release very intermittently gets stuck
14. new tyres - end of financial year as I think they have good deals on then
15. Also ran scanguage and received some fault codes relating to running rich/lean (which 'could' be related to MAF').

I know some of these are very minor but it's my to do list... given the amount of k's - are there 'other' things that we should be looking at?

cheers

Lp

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Down on the side of the block (drivers side looking at the car from the front) there will be a small set of stamped numbers,, 8.13 is low comp.

i've had a look at the block and for the life of me cannot find any numerical reference on the lhs of the block if looking at if from the front?? The block is fairly clean aside from a little grease so from the sparkplugs up definately can't see anything stamped anywhere?? Would it be stamped anywhere else?

thanks

Lp

Originally Posted by landyprincess

i've had a look at the block and for the life of me cannot find any numerical reference on the lhs of the block if looking at if from the front?? The block is fairly clean aside from a little grease so from the sparkplugs up definately can't see anything stamped anywhere?? Would it be stamped anywhere else?

thanks

Lp

Its on the passenger side of the block where the head and block bolt together keep looking youll find it

If your Cruise Control has packed up, it is most likely the piece of hose (8mm I think) from the vacuum pump to the diaphragm. You can get replacement from Supercheap for around $2.00 (they may want you to buy 1m at around $7) This ageing hose can crack from the heat thus rendering the vacuum operated diaphragm useless.

Check in your Rave CD under Workshop Manual, Engine Management System, Description and Operation, Cruise Control Component Layout section for diagrams and description.

This simple piece of new hose repaired my Cruise Control about 3 months ago. Take the old one in to size it correctly. It can be hard to push the new one back on at the diaphragm end as their is limited space for your fingers.

Originally Posted by Ken

Its on the passenger side of the block where the head and block bolt together keep looking youll find it

Thanks Ken,
Right down on the very bottom of the block on the passenger side inconspicuously hidden round about in the middle ish - yes - you really had to look for it *lol*'...

I spoke with Malcolm from Mornington Prestige upon recommendation from the forum and he was extremely helpful over the phone earlier in the week. I went and saw him in person today and explained to him what was going on with my landrover. He was only too happy to help! He confirmed for me high compression and pointed out to me where it was etc as well as clarified many other questions I had...

On a good note, my system was 'reset' to factory default and after being explained how it would run i'm glad that all's fine with the MAF... if anything it's running better!!

I'm very very very happy with the help received, that in itself is invaluable to me so i've booked in to have my landrover serviced there... saves us time doing the work considering hubby has to rebuild his chevy 400 small block (long story)... and i'm happy to pay Malcolm for work on the landrover :-)

cheers

Lp

Originally Posted by landyprincess

7. intermittent SRS airbag light -

I couldn't help but notice this SRS fault... had the same issue. Mine flagged as a faulty pre-tensioner. I stopped believing this after the dealer replaced it three times in a row with no change. (My last ever trip to the dealer)

This is how i fixed mine on my 2001 TD5 D2. Get yourself a can of "CRC CO Contact Cleaner". Find the yellow connector under each seat that connects the pre-tensioner leads. If you know the faulty side, undo the plug on that side, or both if you dont and blast the contacts (gold plated from memory) of the connector into both sides of each plug. Dry, snap together and leave them as you found them. Also make sure that you don't have stuff rolling around under the front seats that can interfere with these plugs as the system seems very sensitive.

Hopefully this may clear your fault and cheaper than a new pre-tensioner.

Alistair

thx Alistair, will add your suggestion to my list of fixes to try for this problem :-)

Originally Posted by simonl8353

If your Cruise Control has packed up, it is most likely the piece of hose (8mm I think) from the vacuum pump to the diaphragm. You can get replacement from Supercheap for around $2.00 (they may want you to buy 1m at around $7) This ageing hose can crack from the heat thus rendering the vacuum operated diaphragm useless.

Check in your Rave CD under Workshop Manual, Engine Management System, Description and Operation, Cruise Control Component Layout section for diagrams and description.

This simple piece of new hose repaired my Cruise Control about 3 months ago. Take the old one in to size it correctly. It can be hard to push the new one back on at the diaphragm end as their is limited space for your fingers.

Your not wrong about no room for fingers, I couldn't get a new piece of hose on, maybe my fingers are too fat.
I'm going to have to remove the unit to fit a piece of hose that should only take a minute to fit.