I like it.....
is there enough room in the t piece boss to machine in a fitting for a temp sender as well?
Had previously posted this on other forums, but someone here needs this info so here it goes again.
Device to measure Td5 fuel pressure
After years of outguessing Td5 fuel pump and/or fuel pressure regulator problems finally came up with a gizmo to measure live fuel pressure.
In the past I had rigged up a mechanical pressure gauge (glicerine type) but for obvious safety reasons it could be only used in static mode (driveway idling). Although the mechanical set up did contribute to fuel pump diagnostics, I wanted something more precise that would allow to closely monitor fuel pressure while driving.
It is based on a full sweep electrical fuel pressure gauge (0-100 psi scale) kit from Autometer.
The set up comprises (3) parts, firstly the pressure gauge which was mounted on a modified cheapo suction cup type cell phone holder for quick installation and removal:
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Secondly, the harness, which connects the pressure sender to the pressure gauge, and branches off to a cigarette lighter male type connector where it gets power from:
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A section of the harness was deliberately left naked so it could be run from the engine to the cabin through the bonnet & door weather-stripping.
And thirdly and most importantly the pressure sender part:
This is in essence a ‘fuel line extension’ (male x female fuel line connectors) with a side outlet on which the pressure sender is mounted.
Used left over parts from a failed fuel pressure regulator (fuel return union with hose + fuel feed union with pipe) and machined the “T” as to have non-sealing threads on the side ends but the same bowl type shape in the interior where the o-rings seat (copied from fuel pressure regulator housing). Fitted new o-rings which are LR p/n STC4509.
For the side outlet cut a ¼” NPT female thread to match the 1/4” NPT male x 1/8” NPT female adapter included in the pressure gauge kit (pressure sender is 1/8” NPT male). Made up sender with PTFE thread sealant.
The whole thing put together:
Bill of materials:
- Autometer Sport Comp Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit #3363 which includes:
- Cigarette lighter type male connector (with internal fuse holder)
- Full sweep electrical fuel pressure gauge 0-100 psi
- 8 foot harness with connectors
- 1/8” NPT pressure sender
- 1/4” NPT male x 1/8” NPT female adapter
- Wiring instructions
- 3 Amp fast acting fuse
- ¼” convoluted slit tubing
- (busted) Fuel Pressure Regulator, complete with union pipe and hose
- (2) LR STC4509 o-rings or equivalent
- Machined “T”: (FPR sample thread) M x F x side ¼” NPTF
- Suction cup type holder
- Solder, tin, black tape
Usage and findings:
It has been a few weeks since it went into service and after having scoped four different Td5s as well as having it permanently installed in my own, have learned the following:
Raw fuel pump pressure (sender installed upstream of FPR):
- Runs between 6 and 7.5 bar (different vehicles)
- Not a steady value, even when idling oscillates in a 0.5 bar range
- Decreases as fuel heats up
- Decreases slightly as consumption rises (full boost)
Regulated fuel pressure (sender installed downstream of FPR and injectors, i.e. downstream of fuel cooler)
- Runs at 4 bar steady (nothing new)
- Decreases sharply when consumption rises (down to 3.5 bar)
- Can be used to diagnose FPR!! i.e. if pressure not sufficiently steady or below 4 bar then FPR is toasted.
Regards
Matt
I like it.....
is there enough room in the t piece boss to machine in a fitting for a temp sender as well?
Dave
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Ok, so if the pressure drops below 4.0 bar downstream of the FPR thats the FPR cactus.
What about the fuel pump? When you have it plumbed in upstream of the FPR. What sought of drop in pressure would we expect, to determine the fuel pump is cactus or on the way out?
Top job too Matt!
Cheers,
Tod.
Very nice, well thought out set up mate. Good Job!
Slightly OT but a few weeks ago I was in my local auto parts shop and one of the salesman was recommending to a customer over the phone that he install a mech fuel pressure gauge inside the car and run the pressure line from the fuel rail through the firewall and oo the gauge inside the car.....80+ psi of pressurised petrol inside the car......![]()
From a pressure behavior stand point have seen fuel pumps failing in a number of ways:
1- Random pressure 'valleys' independent of engine load
2- Alright at idle but at some point when fuel demand increases pressure would frequently dive to 2-3 bar then recover, in a sort of sinusoidal wave form (period shortened as engine load is increased)
3- Pressure not holding at full engine boost conditions (insufficient fuel volume)
Funny thing though is that the above don't always necessarily translate into engine malfunction, and if such thing occurs it can come in various flavors, i.e. random engine cut outs, limited power, limited speed, rough engine, increased clattering at idle, etc.
Best thing I did upon building the subject gadget was driving with the pressure gauge installed for some time to get a feel of how both pressures react to the different engine load conditions.
Cheers
Matt
Last edited by mturri; 30th April 2011 at 11:09 PM. Reason: wrong spelling
This is very interesting, and I happen to be trying to build something similar. Looking at your setup, i cannot work out how it is plumbed into the fuel pressure regulator. Do you have a photo showing how it is installed?
thanks a lot!
Mark
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