check out the exhaust manifold for broken studs or dodgy gasket.
I had a similar noise in my v8 which sounded worrying (and expensive) which happened at start up when cold which would go away after about 15 seconds (manifold heats up and seals) or if I put it in drive (revs drop). Turned out it was escaping exhaust making the noise (which I described as an unlubricated metalic noise but could also be like marbles in a blender). There was also a 'shuffle' sound if I booted it which was a result of increased exhaust pressure causing exhaust to escape.
Take of the serpentine and start it (cold) to see if the noise is one of the pulleys or not. If there's no noise without the belt then its one of the pulleys. If there is noise then it's something else (obviously). Best to eliminate possibilities..
Wizard
SupporterIve got this similar sounding rattle when at / around / accelerating softly through 2200rpm. happens with last three exhaust pipes or off. sometimes when idle sometimes not. always when driving.
going to have to check the pulleys by the sounds of it.
Master
have the same problem found the noise coming from the handbreak if u lift the handbrake up while hearing the noise it should stop i have to adjust my handbreak so it works on the first click. have to adjust every 5,000km there is something in the handbrake that is rattling. have inspected cant see anything wrong. noise also goes away when the D2 warms up
Swaggie
SubscriberThat mechanical squeak sound might also be from a leaking exhaust gasket. Only happens under load. You'd swear it is is a pulley or something, but it is the gasket resonating and vibrating.Originally Posted by haydent
HTH
David
Wizard
Supporteryeah , im thinking something like that too.
Wizard
Supporterwell believe it or not it looks like its the handbrake after all !!! what a relief. who would have thought it could make such a noise... i didnt.
and this would explain why sometimes it would do it when stationary and others times not - i didnt always have the hand brake on !
so yeah, when i pull the brake up a little while its happening it stops it.
so i just took off the rear propshaft and the handbrake drum and put the transfer case into Diff-Lock with a 10mm spanner.
so i can go for drive and bit by bit take the handbrake apart till i find what part is rattling...
thanks so much for the help this has probably saved me hundreds of dollars that would have been spent in labour at the mechanic...
im also really relieved it's nothing more serious as we only just upgraded to this model from an old '91 d1 and was getting worried...
Fossicker
this may be the problem?
Wizard
Supporterexcellent ill look into this, ive got to say it doesnt get much better than this
thankyou
Wizard
Supporter
it was the handbrake allright. got a low km assembly normally $150 from TRS on their recommendation which fixed it.
that being said, its likely just replacing the pad retaining springs and filing as outlined in the pdf could have worked and been a lot cheaper, as there was a noticeable difference in pressure between the old assembly and the new one if i pulled back on the pads (away from the back plate) compressing the springs.
there was also plenty of wear against the back plate. as pictured below.
over all its a pretty easy job mainly because there's plenty of room to work and clearance for your tools. the only bit not that way was the nuts holding the propeller shaft to the brake drum. i couldn't get a socket on them so a 14mm ring spanner did well.
once again, thanks for the advice.
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