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Thread: 110 Isuzu air-con compressor

  1. #1
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    110 Isuzu air-con compressor

    Hi All,

    When I bought my 1990 110 Isuzu County the air-con compressor had been taken off as it had seized. The air-con system is the under bonnet type not the later Defender under-dash type. The previous owner had lost the compressor but the mounting bracket is still there though.

    I'm hoping to get the air-con working again and wanted to know if the air-con compressor is a LR or Isuzu item? Does anyone have the part number or even a working compressor I could buy.

    Also, what problems am I likely to encounter seeing as the compressor was removed quite a while ago and the ends of the pipes were just roughly taped over with electrical tape (I've had the car over a year now and god knows how long before that the compressor was removed).

    Cheers,

    Jon

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by D3Jon View Post
    Hi All,

    When I bought my 1990 110 Isuzu County the air-con compressor had been taken off as it had seized. The air-con system is the under bonnet type not the later Defender under-dash type. The previous owner had lost the compressor but the mounting bracket is still there though.

    I'm hoping to get the air-con working again and wanted to know if the air-con compressor is a LR or Isuzu item? Does anyone have the part number or even a working compressor I could buy.

    Also, what problems am I likely to encounter seeing as the compressor was removed quite a while ago and the ends of the pipes were just roughly taped over with electrical tape (I've had the car over a year now and god knows how long before that the compressor was removed).

    Cheers,

    Jon
    You should be able to get a generic compressor fairly easily, - sometimes you will need to get adaptor plates - but a good air con parts dealer should be able to advise.

    With regards the system being open for such a while, you will need to have the system flushed - as moisture will have got into the system and mixed with the residual oil that you will find in pockets in any system. Plus if it was a R134a system then a synthetic oil would have been used and this oil will emulysify - (turn gooey) when mixed with moisture.

    To flush the system properly you will have to remove

    1.TX valve, and soak in flushing fluid
    2. Filter/Drier - remove and replace with a new one.

    Also replace any/all O rings - these will have perished over that period of time.

    Flush each component using a industry standard flushing fluid for AC systems - don't be fobbed off with someone saying you can flush with Nitrogen.

    Condenser needs a good flush, the evaporator needs a good flush, all the pipework needs a good flush.

    Inspect all the 'rubber' hoses, as they tend to perish when left open, check for cracks etc.,

    PS I know a good AC chap in Perth if you need assistance.

  3. #3
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    Just checking the OEX/Ingram catalogue the Sanden SD7H is the typical compressor. the part no. in the LH Col is for the adaptor plates - which you may or may not need - depending on what compressor was used before.

    See the attached file
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #4
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    Does all that flushing get done in place? Or does it need to be taken apart?

    Cheers
    Simon

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by abaddonxi View Post
    Does all that flushing get done in place? Or does it need to be taken apart?

    Cheers
    Simon
    When the components are removed, Compressor, TX Valve, filter drier.

    The rest stays in place.

    Flushing fluid is just pushed through the pipes and coils (normally pushed by nitrogen @ about 80 psi. (Do no use compressed air - unless it is mechanically dehydrated)

    Fluid is pumped through until the stuff coming out the other end is as clean as the new stuff going in.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ladas View Post
    You should be able to get a generic compressor fairly easily, - sometimes you will need to get adaptor plates - but a good air con parts dealer should be able to advise.

    With regards the system being open for such a while, you will need to have the system flushed - as moisture will have got into the system and mixed with the residual oil that you will find in pockets in any system. Plus if it was a R134a system then a synthetic oil would have been used and this oil will emulysify - (turn gooey) when mixed with moisture.

    To flush the system properly you will have to remove

    1.TX valve, and soak in flushing fluid
    2. Filter/Drier - remove and replace with a new one.

    Also replace any/all O rings - these will have perished over that period of time.

    Flush each component using a industry standard flushing fluid for AC systems - don't be fobbed off with someone saying you can flush with Nitrogen.

    Condenser needs a good flush, the evaporator needs a good flush, all the pipework needs a good flush.

    Inspect all the 'rubber' hoses, as they tend to perish when left open, check for cracks etc.,

    PS I know a good AC chap in Perth if you need assistance.
    Thanks for all the info ladas, great help

    It would be great to get the contact details for the a/c guy in Perth, PM sent.

    Regards,

    Jon

  7. #7
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    Jon, I got great service from the guy at Hooleys in Joondalup. Hooley AUTOSPARK | Auto Electrical and Air Conditioning || Western Australia
    He replace the compressor on my isuzu for one he had in stock, no adapters required, for about $400 I think. At the very least he's got experience from doing mine.
    Col

  8. #8
    clean32 is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    If its 400 bucks plus the flushing and fitting etc, then Vacuum lines and what ever may be or not may need fixing etc.
    Maybe its better to have a look at a van ceiling mounted electric jobs, there is a thread around here some where, if I remember correctly about 750 bucks for some thing that really works.

    I still have the under bonnet job. The previous owner of my county commented that he had spent a small fortune keeping it going, every other Isuzu county I have seen has had the aircon ripped out and either replaced with a defender job ( expensive and not so good) a modified Holden aircon, seems ok and cheaper but a bit of mucking around I think. but I haven’t seen the mini van ceiling job fitted yet. Or just no aircon at all, or just the front vents refitted

    And you would have more room for a bigger turbo LOL

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by clean32 View Post
    If its 400 bucks plus the flushing and fitting etc, then Vacuum lines and what ever may be or not may need fixing etc.
    Maybe its better to have a look at a van ceiling mounted electric jobs, there is a thread around here some where, if I remember correctly about 750 bucks for some thing that really works.

    I still have the under bonnet job. The previous owner of my county commented that he had spent a small fortune keeping it going, every other Isuzu county I have seen has had the aircon ripped out and either replaced with a defender job ( expensive and not so good) a modified Holden aircon, seems ok and cheaper but a bit of mucking around I think. but I haven’t seen the mini van ceiling job fitted yet. Or just no aircon at all, or just the front vents refitted

    And you would have more room for a bigger turbo LOL
    I've thought about that, I was a bit worried that the external unit would increase wind resistance and slow the car down even more than it already is ! - No turbo on mine (not yet!)

    I was wandering around one of the electrical stores yesterday and saw a tiny window mount a/c unit that drew only 650 Watts (at 240V) for just $300. This got me thinking whether that could be dropped in the back of the car running off say a 1000W 12V/240V inverter - I suppose the only problem would be getting the resultant hot air from the unit out of the car as I wasn't actually thinking of window mounting it

    Jon

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    clean32 is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    Quote Originally Posted by D3Jon View Post
    I've thought about that, I was a bit worried that the external unit would increase wind resistance and slow the car down even more than it already is ! - No turbo on mine (not yet!)

    I was wandering around one of the electrical stores yesterday and saw a tiny window mount a/c unit that drew only 650 Watts (at 240V) for just $300. This got me thinking whether that could be dropped in the back of the car running off say a 1000W 12V/240V inverter - I suppose the only problem would be getting the resultant hot air from the unit out of the car as I wasn't actually thinking of window mounting it

    Jon
    Yes I have been thinking along the same lines ( no turbo here yet either)
    I have solar panels and roof rack with one or 2 wheels on top, took it all off the other day and the county went from 110 klm to backing off at 120 klm, I didn’t realize that the drag would be so much.

    There is a thread around some where (cant fined it) about running 240 AV in a moving vehicle, seems it may not be legal, but I don’t really know? That thread was about powering trailers.

    The roof mount Van thing I was referring to mounts inside, I haven’t seen the hot end of it all, but there was a comment floating around about some one who had mounted the hot end under a front wing. Sorry don’t know any more.

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