Thread: Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

Originally Posted by isuzurover

I have never seen a conversion "in the flesh" - so not sure. Barry at HitoughEng. used to be Mal's 2IC so could probably give you all the info you need.

It was more 'out of interest' so I won't waste his time.
I did wonder about the cost of using two gears to make one, not a cheap option but possibly still cheaper than getting a small batch of the 31 tooth gears made.

Stripped the rest of the box tonight, just need to clean up. Bearings were mostly Nachi and 'feel' OK, the seal between the gearbox & transfer box looks tired which probably explains the lack of oil in the gearbox and excess in the transfer box. The housing for the mainshaft bearing was spinning quite feely so that'll get loctited during the rebuild.

DSCN1388 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


I found one chipped tooth but nothing to worry about.

DSCN1386 by Colin Radley, on Flickr



Colin

Cleaned up the gearbox casings at the weekend. Fitted new synchro clips, one had broken and the others were worn. Loctited the main bearing into it's housing and the housing into the case. Just need a few replacement springs and I can re-assemble.

DSCN1396 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Decided to make a tool for the nut that holds the mainshaft gear for the transfer box in place. I considered a piece of stainless steel, then decided to use a socket but couldn't find a deep socket large enough.
I ended up finding a 3/4" drive 30mm Chinese socket in the Kincrome outlet shop that looked about the right size. When offered up the shaft neatly fitted through the 3/4" drive end so it would do the job.
I turned the end to size and milled it to leave 4 'fingers' to engage in the nut, I was going to mill 8 fingers but I couldn't be bothered setting up the rotary table. Some fine tuning with a file and a couple of flats on the other end to turn it with and it's ready to use....

DSCN1393 by Colin Radley, on Flickr



Colin

Wow Colin, this is quickly becoming my favorite thread

Thanks Steve,

It's just very slow at the moment because of work and family commitments. I'm waiting on parts arriving from the UK, have to fix the wife's Territory (castor ball joints & front diff bushes), finish building the shed..........

Colin

Originally Posted by dolphint

Wow Colin, this is quickly becoming my favorite thread

Indeed. I think gromit, Psimpson7 and ridjidij all win the award for neatness, cleanliness and attention to detail in their repair/fab work...

Found some time between delivering kids to Scouts, fixing the Territory suspension and other chores around the house.

Took the output shaft housing off the transfer box.

DSCN1410 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

I should have undone the nut holding the output flange in place while it was all bolted together. Instead I made a holding tool which will come in handy in the future.

DSCN1406 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Took out the contents, hopefully I can work out how it all goes back together.....

DSCN1408 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

The bearing in the output shaft housing had rusted at some point and felt a bit rough so I'll get a replacement. Some of the internals had also rusted at some point but they'll clean up.
You can see in the picture below where the transfer box has been modified to re-position the intermediate shaft.

DSCN1409 by Colin Radley, on Flickr



Colin

The output shaft bearing turned out to be a no-name, cannot even find a number etched onto it. The problem with it is due to rust rather than wear. It's an RLS 10 (2 3/4" OD 1 1/4" ID 11/16" thick) available from most decent bearing outlets, I picked up an NSK one this morning. Looking at the dimensions of the inner & outer races it's clearly a metric bearing that's ground to imperial sizes, I'll post a photo if I remember.
The mainshaft bearings in the transfer box feel & look OK and the pre-load is about right so I might leave it alone. I managed to get a selection of shims for the speedo housing in case I had to reset the preload but I can keep them for the next gearbox....
The Hi-Lo selector shaft has a seal recess identical to the selector shafts on the gearbox yet the parts manuals show an O-ring seal. There was nothing fitted (maybe that's why there's evidence of rust in the components of the output shaft housing !) I'll fit a selector shaft seal during the rebuild.

It's a struggle doing all this in a packed workshop with only the floor as a workspace but I'm slowly getting there. Every time I do something I have to move stuff around.....



Colin

I put the output shaft housing back together last night.

Pressing the bearing home. The odd bits of aluminium used to press it in are offcuts of extrusion from work.

DSCN1423 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Oil seal retainer about to be bolted on. I'm using Permatex no 2 and paper gaskets. It's interesting than the workshop manual just says grease the gasket paper. I've done this before and it works OK but I don't want to be pulling it down again soon so I'll stay with the gasket cement.

DSCN1424 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Contents re-assembled & fitted. I had to double check the manual to make sure the parts were assembled correctly. The internals had rusted at some point, now I understand the internals it's important to engage 4WD occasionally to throw some oil round the inside of the output shaft housing. I just love the oil thrower, it really looks like something made from parts that were laying around in the factory. I applied oil with a paintbrush to everything as I assembled, tends to get a bit messy but at least I know everything is protected.

DSCN1426 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Gasket on transfer box ready for the output shaft housing to be fitted. It's a fiddly job because you have to hold the selector in place in the transfer box (and it needs to be the right way round) then as you fit the housing the selector rod has to fit into the selector you're holding.

DSCN1428 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Fitted and tightened up, selector works OK.

DSCN1430 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


Next I need to assemble the gearbox.


Colin