Reply With QuoteThey can be a pain to bleed properly sometimes. I've found I need to have the front of the car a lot higher than the rear to get the air out.
Fossicker
Well, the issues continue with the P(iece of crap)38.
After my replacement of the passenger side head gasket, the dramas associated with the block due to the previous butcher working on it and my stuffing around with the inlet to match the machined head face, the car was back on the road for a princely 2 weeks (bringing the total of drive time to 5 weeks since our November purchase) before it overheated and left the missus on the side of the road. Thankfully she is aware of the bigger issues with this happening and pulled over as soon as the gauge went up.
When my mate (a good mechanic) and I went to rescue it we found that the thermostat was not opening. We refilled the expansion tank and drove it back to his shop. I ordered a new thermostat and he put it in today for me. Yay!!! fixed......NOT.
I went for a drive of about 5 mins after warming it up today and it did it again. As well as that when I stop the coolant comes gushing out of the expansion tank overflow tube. Roughly 500 or so ml.
I thought that maybe it was an airlock that was the issue so I let it run with the cap off hoping to bleed the system. The thing that has done me in though is that if bleeding air there should not be continuous excessive bubbling in the tank leading to what can only be described as volcanic eruptions of coolant.
I spoke to my mate and he said to bring it back in being pretty sure that the OTHER bank's gasket has probably crapped itself.
I'm basically seeing if anyone has any ideas about what else it might be that is easier and cheaper to fix before he pulls it all down in the next day or two. I'm having him do this side if that's what it is because I am quickly getting over working on the pommy bus. As you can tell I am losing the love of the truck as is the boss who's car it is. It is a pretty sad situation when the 97 EL is an improvement for her.
Porchy
OldBushie
They can be a pain to bleed properly sometimes. I've found I need to have the front of the car a lot higher than the rear to get the air out.
Scott
Master
which year model do you have? 99 onwards are more difficult to bleed as you can get a huge air lock in the back of the thermostat that stops it from getting hot and so does not open. get most of the air out by opening up the smaller bore hose (same size as heater) to the thermostat and bleeding them manually and do the same with the heater (try getting the header tank as high as possible or use a tight fitting funnel). when it is running make sure the tell tail jet inside the filler neck is clear and working. the vacuum fillers do not work very well on rovers.
pre 99 just bleed out manually at the heater hoses and check the tell tail.
RoverLord
use the coke bottle fill method.
drill out the thermostat bleed hole to about 3/16th if you happen to have the one with the one way "jiggler" in it rip that out then drill the hole.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
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Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.comRegrettably, the thermostat is inside a moulded housing down near the bottom of the radiator. I doubt one could drill out the jiggler hole. It might be possible to drill another hole.Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
My car has had the thermostat moved to the conventional place in the head and this "sputnik" fitted to replace the original thermostat and housing:
We don't know what engine the poster has - GEMS or Thor.
Last edited by p38arover; 23rd February 2012 at 11:33 AM.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Wizard
SubscriberOn MY98 there was a small hose at the top of the header tank , driver side. Remove hose and blow through tube. Not sure what year you have so may be differnt.
Just looked at RAVE both have radiator bleed pipe. So all should be good. Its all decribed in Rave
Gary
Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.comAs Gary said, remove the bleed pipe and blow it through. I disconnect it at the radiator (be very careful not to break the nipple of the radiator top tank. Leave it off until, when filling the system, coolant starts to flow from the nipple.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Master
Sounding like a linner has shifted
Fossicker
Hi Guys. Sorry about the lack of year in the original post. It is a 2000 Thor manifold engine. I will mention the bleeding techniques to my mate this morning when I drop it off. I was just concerned with the violence and level amount of air that it was a he said, a head gasket or worse (praying it isn't the liner mate because that's an engine out job isn't it).
Thanks for your replies fellas.
Porchy
The MOD Father
A procedure for bleeding the P38 is available in
The Good Oil,,,
look for "Refilling Radiators"
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
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