Australian Land Rover Owners

Freight Calc Gallery Games Arcade Markets Shop Chat Subscribe! Donate Files Links
Go Back   Australian Land Rover Owners > Technical Forums > Projects and Tutorials

Projects and Tutorials Documented Projects and Tutorials

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 5th October 2007, 11:24 PM
langy's Avatar
Wizard
 
Join Date: Jan 1970
Location: Somewhere else, QLD
Posts: 1,623
Thanks: 8
Thanked 356 Times in 327 Posts
How to replace rear main seal on a R380 in situ.

One of the things that can happen is that after replacing your gearbox and putting it all together- it leaks.

Now you know what happens if you install the seal in the first place after installing the collar on the shaft, and then try to slip the seal over the ridges (even using electrical tape or cardboard. In my case the seal got caught, and even though I eased the lip over the ridge, I must have split the lip or popped the spring off.

Well, since I didn't want to drop the box again, and necessity being the mother of invention, I came up with this to re-install the rear seal on the gearbox.

Much like the former used on the rear main seal on a TDi/td5 etc, you need somthing to get it over the ridge. But also it has to be sufficiently slim to fit into the seal, and over the collar.

And since copper pipe isn't made to the right size - try a SPEEDI SLEEVE



A speedi sleeve in 43mm. 42 won't fit over the collar (although the collar is 42mm, the speedi sleeve is made slightly smaller and it expands a little) 45mm will sort of work,but I think it stretches the seal too much.

Part2: Getting to it

Apart from the the normal things, if you undo the bolts holding the mount to the TC, chock the gearbox in the correct position at the crossmember, remove handbrake drum and backing plate and use a trolley jack, you can split the two without dropping the cross member.




And then you tap the seal & sleeve in using a small hammer and a small piece of wood. I use a smear of loctite on the outside of the seal, which is the red stuff you can see.


Part 3: getting it back together

Although the manual suggests removal of the TC main input gear, if you put diff lock on, you simply rotate the gear so it lines up OK, then the gear keeps the shaft from damaging the seal.

And that's it - except do not mix up which bolt goes where. If a long bolt goes into a hole where a short bolt should go, it will lock up the TC or the end of the bolt will get chewed off.

Last edited by langy; 9th October 2007 at 04:31 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 6th October 2007, 07:31 AM
Master
 
Join Date: Jan 1970
Location: Capalaba.Q.L.D.
Posts: 328
Thanks: 4
Thanked 23 Times in 16 Posts
replaced mine last friday,that would have made it easer.no leaks(sofar)
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 6th October 2007, 01:37 PM
BigJon's Avatar
ForumSage
Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 1970
Location: Adelaide - Torrens Park
Posts: 5,810
Thanks: 1,320
Thanked 788 Times in 577 Posts
We just use an appropriately sized o ring in the groove to prevent the seal from being damaged. Remove the o ring once the seal is fitted.
__________________
(88 Hiline - Now with Limited Slip rear diff)
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT +10. The time now is 10:41 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Australian Land Rover Owners
Copyright ©2001 - 2012, Dave Blears and aulro.com