Ok So I opened the box...
I read the manual
I pulled it apart
(yes I actually did it in that order for once)
I put it together.
I put on some thinking music.

Excluding taking the time to clean it all up and take photos as Im doing it Im guessing my install time is going to be about 45 minutes.

After reading the manual (way to much info in there for non pro-tech type guys but it made for a good tech read) I was impressed. After looking at the unit and playing with it even more so.

Theres a couple of things Id have done differently or would like to see done differently on it but these are the sort of things that are on the scale of complaining that the lining of the glove box on the new ferrari you just got given is not quite the right shade of grey.

Im pretty sure that Im going to plumb it in so that the drain back is above the oil level which means that its mandatory to fit the one way valve. On that note and this is the only thing that I am in disagreeance with the guys who made the thing in how they want it fitted up. The manual specifies that if your fitting the return lower than the nominal minimum oil level that you dont need the check valve. Thats fine under normal operating circumstances but if you slope it hard enough (bet some of you will) blow out a set of rings crack a piston, have a turbo start to vent boost pressure into the crank case OR for osme reason the piping/flow path for the crank case gasses becomes blocked then the sump will overpressurise push the oil up into the provent and then into your air intake.

I strongly advise that you fit the one way check valve in all setups, It wont be needed in 90% of the cases where the oil return is correctly installed below the oil level and providing you use the check valve thats provided and install it correctly then it wont hinder the intended operation of the provent with the oil return line below the oil level.

Im aiming to install on thursday arvo with everything else permitting.

Ill split the existing main ventilation line, extend it (probabley over to the right hand side) send the return back to the existing vent point and then tap the alternator vac pump return line for the oil return. The rated temperatures of the provent and the oil lines that Ive got regular access to probabley wont handle being close to the turbo (especially not now big red is chipped up) and putting it on the turbo side proabley means infringing on my oven space.

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

I had a tasking on today that had me down near the metal manglers.. I had the provent on board, I had to wait for them... I worked out where and how Im fitting the provent and asked them to help me knock up the basic brace plate that Im going to use to mount the provent.

Heres how....

(scuse the pics I took them when I got home I didnt have the camera at work)

First put the provent in the engine bay


Big isnt it

unless your willing to shift the power steering tank or the reciever drier for the aircon you have 3 places to mount it


the passangers side in front of the heater blower box

or


in front of the brake master cylinder (as pictured) or in the space on the firewall where the impact reset switch is located. (not pictured, i couldnt get the thing to stay put for a piccy)

I chose the drivers side for a few reasons.

1. I dont like the idea of running the hoses over the turbo/exhaust
2. I dont want to hack into the turbo return line its got pressure fittings on it
3. I use the passangers side as a warmer for some foods when engine bay cooking.
4. The air vent/oil return line on the alternator is not a pressure fitting and will allow me to fit the hosing just how I want to.
5. Im not going to drill my firewall

So with it all decided all you have to do is mount it...

start out with a piece of card

cut it and shape it to fit where you would put the provent

like this

you'll notice that Ive rotated the provent in its mounting strap to get the clearest fit in the engine bay and my desired hose routing I took this to the metal manglers and said Can I have that in ally.? ( i hadnt scored the hole in the card to make room for the provents outlet at this stage nor had I torn the edges down ID just guess cut the edge to clear the shock tower access guard rubber)


apparently I can all I need to do now is cut the hole, file and fit it to the body work and mount the provent as desired

Now this is where Its going to go

as you can see I need to pull out the actuators for the EGR.. (what EGR, wasnt I ment to pull these off months ago?) and shift the vac lines (remove in my case) you dont have to but my plate is a little oversize which is fine by me as I have some trickery to be mounted on the larger plate. which wasnt what I was intending but when oportunit knocks....

and this stuff has got to go to make room for it (plus I was ment to remove it anyway


If its got a red line on it its going. The green circle is where Im going to vertically mount the check valve for the provent as per the above oil level installation instructions and the green line is going to be the return line to the vent line on the alternator here


If Id been thinking Id have shaded that in green instead of red.. But If I get the tpiece setup the way that I want to I should be able to utilise the blow through of the vac pump as a venturi vacume to suck the oil out of the provent..

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

Thanks Dave - look forward to seeing the rest.

Thanks Dave,

Im going to speak to a mate tomorrow night that said he has fitted them to trucks so we will have a look and see.

I will hopefully be fitting a couple up tomorrow. So will try to take some pics.

Ok so today was ment to have the thing installed...

in theory it sounded simple..

1. refab the plate to take the provent, should only take an hour or so....
2. remove the alternator and jigger the hose so I can set that up for the drain.
3. fit the provent in and hook up the drain
4. Fit the breather lines.

Now in theory theres no difference between the theroetical world and the practical world... In pracice there is...

Having learnt that many times before when EKO rolled around I figured Id start out by getting the hose jiggered in... kinda glad i did. removing the alternator from a td5 deefer should be fairly simple... Building a space shuttle, thats simple. configuring a ring of nuclear blasts around the core of the earth in a machine thats damaged to an accuracy of +/- a second with a precision of 50 feet should be fairly simple...... removing an alternator from a Td5 is not simple....

before I get into the actual spanner swinging of whats involved heres some light reading, for those of you who have already done a serpentine belt, silicone hoses and EGRbypass/replacement skip on for those who havent take the time to link on theres some handy hints in these links I wont retype.

most of the tools
removing the EGR
Removing the sertpentine blet

the next post (after the movies tonight) will show you what work needs to be done to get to the return line from the alternator vac pump.

I strongly suggest that removing the drain from the turbo and paying to have it setup as a T piece or braising into the return from the centrifugal filter is a much easier and cheaper option if you are paying to have it fitted.

I will cover the routing for that in the next post as after the debacle with the alternator as i was removing and re routing the vac actuator lines and the breathers for them I stumbled onto a perfect route for the oil return from the provent that will let you mount the provent on the drivers side like I want to yet still have it drain over to a passangers side line.

the photos in this set will only cover the originaly routing I planned partly out of sheer pig headed " I said Id do it that way and its gunna get done that way" partly out of we dont have workable welding gear or hose fitting gear at work ATM so I have to work on low pressure push to connect type gear and partly because Id already started in on it and partly becuase I only have one td5 vehicle and Im not refitting it back to standard just to take some pics of hte other 2 setups Ive thought out....

(sublte hint other brisvages provent/td5 owners this might be an opportunity...)

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

so the work that needs doing.

First up remove the shroud EGR and the serpentine belt. If like me your going to remove the actuators for the EGR pull them off now and remove the hosing. once all of them are off take the bit of 1/8th inch rubber hose, cut a pair of small sections up and use them to close off the t piece on the vac line from the alternator to the brake booster (you'll spot this later) and the one on the side of the air filter. You could replace them premantantly with a straight join and a closer but I have plans for a vac outlet for when Im towing dead engined vehicles so that the towee can have boosted brakes and a filter blockage indicator on the filter housing. If your refitting your EGR pay attention to how it all mounts up as you'll have to put it all back later. (Im not doing that tho so if youd like to ignore this step and shuffle along to where I start pulling the bottom end apart please do)

Heres where the hose that Im talking about terminates at the airfilter, see the blue blob of sealastic?



While were moving stuff you need to reroute the pipe that runs back to the expansion tank



mine was only loosely held on by a plastic clip that died during removal but the hole in the p clamp was large enough for me to resuse the clamp on a bolt that held down an acutator



This is done so that the plastic hose wont fret on the new ally panel that Im going to bolt to the holes that were holding it in place. IF your going to reuse your EGR setup you need to purchase some longer p clamps if you follow my plating idea on this side of the vehicle.

This is where the fun starts..

Chassis jack the vehicle so its up about 2 inchs over normal chassis height. then apply full right hand lock. (or do it the other way around.)

now remove the steering damper, undo the 2 10mm nuts that hold the retaining plates for the transmission cooler pipe (the round loop of pipe you see in the next pic) then get on with removing the tensioner from its bracket.



All of this is done so you can get acess to the next bit
The alternator...

you need to pull the 3 pipes off of the vac pump and the main charge lead.
the main charge lead is easy (disconnect all your battery earths before going anywhere near this) it un bolts with just a 13mm ring spanner after you remove the cover) then the vac hose is just a case of undoing the spring clip with a pair of pliers and pulling the hose off.

Removing the oil supply line is best done by undoing the feed line from the top of the timing chain housng that runs down to the bottom of the drivers side of the alternator. Its a little tricky because of the limited swing you get but its doable with open ended spanners or a pipe spanner.

The return hose is the fun one... but before you go and do that Identify the bracing strap for the alternator thats held in place by a 10mm headed bolt at each end remove that first then get under the front of the vehicle. The return line has got these naffy locking spring clips that I hate use any butcherous method that doesnt involve impact or excessive heat to remove the clips then head on back then pry the alternator away from the engine at the top.

Cut the hose in the middle and then reach up with pliers and pull the rubber bits off.

you should wind up looking at this.


you now need to be carefull as there will be residual oil leaking out of the vac pump and the engine and it will be dripping at your head.

from the top route the hose about where you want it to go.. I passed one the top side of the hose just behind where the alternator brace strap sits then threaded it down between the alternator and the timing chain cover. the other side I snaked in front of the engine mount, along a coolant line in behind where the arm of the tensioner sits(when its actually there

something like this out past the manifold back via the engine mount


and like this behind the alternator bracket


(you can also see the second blob of blue sealastic where the vac supply to the EGR acutators has been removed.)

the hose that goes up over the alternator needs to be the one that connects to the alternator supply line and heads upwards. this is so that when the thing is spitting oil out of the pump it will flow up and over the alternator and then downhill past the provent and then back into the engine.

It should look a little like this


then fit the return side like this..


now its just a case of putting back everything you took off and your laughing...

yes I know some of the pics dont quite show the exact sequence some of the ones I wanted to use didnt work out so I had to use similar ones that show the same general area/work required.

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

Hi Dave, thanks for posting this. Sorry to hear about the hassles.

As I posted this morning, and as you mentioned, IMHO tapping into the turbo drain and mounting next to the heater would be the easiest. If all goes to plan, Iggy will be over tomorrow to do just that, and we can post up some pics of the alternative mounting position.

I was expecting the hassles and needed to pull the alternator to check a couple of things.. (I had a noise coming from the engine bay that I thought was alternator related and had some interesting brake problems)

This was also part of the reason why I was willing to make the effort to do it the way I have I needed to pull the alternator anyway.....

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.