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Thread: Danger Warning, Crud Thats not right...

  1. #21
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    All of it because I didnt design it and Im picking up on other peoples frell ups...

    Big red has only just come out of the warrenty service perio d where If i wanted the warrenty I had to pay other people to service her just so they could stick their "warrenty service" stamp in the log book....

    Had I thought that they might not actually be doing it right (well that was a gimmie after some of the things I picked up on after services) and that I could get away with forging the stamp this would have had a different ending....

    I'll let you know next time I need the thermostat pulling out of big red and you can come and bark your knuckles on it... Actually you probabley wont as I now have the clamps positioned so that you can get the pliers onto them.

    If you REALLY want I'll list all the indiscretions I picked up on during the warrenty period and all the ones since I took over the servicing.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #22
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    Warranty not warrenty

    Those spring type clamps are evil anyhow

  3. #23
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    actually they are better than the screw type ones when youve got a plastic radiator end tank.. you cant over tightne them and smash the outlet like the nuftie who was doing the service on his nissan on the hoist next door to me on friday...

    His is still on the hoist hed bought it in cause he knew wed have the cooling system servicing gear out for mine and since I was going to be there anyway Hed pick my brains on the service as he needed it (one of the distractions) well he lasted all of 2 hours on friday after draining and flushing he put it backtogether and decided that the bolt up hose clamps were the way to go as theyd grip better than the ones he had and would take care of the niggling occasional leak he had..

    He was right they did. By fracturing the bottom radiator side outle pipe... At least now when he puts it back together the hose will be going onto a fresh bit of pipe rather than the gunky one he was too lazy to clean.

    Asking me if its the right clamp to use after its smashed something is not conducive to you not getting "no" laughed at you.....


    and who are you? Rons brother or something.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    actually they are better than the screw type ones when youve got a plastic radiator end tank.. you cant over tightne them and smash the outlet like the nuftie who was doing the service on his nissan on the hoist next door to me on friday...

    His is still on the hoist hed bought it in cause he knew wed have the cooling system servicing gear out for mine and since I was going to be there anyway Hed pick my brains on the service as he needed it (one of the distractions) well he lasted all of 2 hours on friday after draining and flushing he put it backtogether and decided that the bolt up hose clamps were the way to go as theyd grip better than the ones he had and would take care of the niggling occasional leak he had..

    He was right they did. By fracturing the bottom radiator side outle pipe... At least now when he puts it back together the hose will be going onto a fresh bit of pipe rather than the gunky one he was too lazy to clean.

    Asking me if its the right clamp to use after its smashed something is not conducive to you not getting "no" laughed at you.....


    and who are you? Rons brother or something.
    No relative....I hope, just you wrote it 12 times and I couldn't help it

    How the **** did he get the clamp that tight, he must have used a socket and ratchet?? I got good rubber handle kinchrome drivers and with the largest driver I dont thing you could over tighten enough to break the pipe.............plus you'd have to be thick

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    No relative....I hope, just you wrote it 12 times and I couldn't help it

    How the **** did he get the clamp that tight, he must have used a socket and ratchet?? I got good rubber handle kinchrome drivers and with the largest driver I dont thing you could over tighten enough to break the pipe.............plus you'd have to be thick
    ahh 12 is the number of cuts ive got in various places on both my hands in total....

    Actually yes.. you know those spring loaded versions of the normal hose clamp that use a nut and dedicated bolt to pull the clamp closed, you normally only see them on high pressure hoses (the intenal hoses on say A Fire engine) and hydraulics... He started out with the same type of clamps as Im using (being the good flat metal spring type clips) and got a weep from his bottom hose, so replaced it with a stainless steel screw+8mm nut head jobbie (same type as the intercooler hoses on big red but slightly bigger) He asked what to do about it at this point and without even crawling out from under big red (I was dropping oils at the time) I said clean it up with some emery paper, replace the hose and use the normal supplied spring clamp. Said naff that I'll use a proper clamp then went and rummaged around at the fire vechicle servicing workshop (same building as where we were working) and came back with the spring loaded type... (which I didnt see as I had assumed hed gone to our parts bay)

    The rest is history...

    It wasnt till He called me over to "have a look at this for me" after hed busted the pipe that I found that my assumptions were wrong. I had assumed that he was going to go from a spring clamp to a screw type hose clamp not a bolt up jobbie....

    on that note I use the supplied new spring type hose clamps when fitting a new hose. IF they leak I clean up the pipe fitting with a bit of 800 grit wet and dry, give the hose a slick of gasket sealastic and let it settle for 5 minutes before putting it back together with the spring clamp if it leaks after that I butcher the old spring clamp off and open and reclose a new hoseclamp to the thing without removing the hose. My initial leak test is with a regulated supply of compressed air plumbed into the system at 110% of the systems nominal operating pressure, this way its not hot when I do it and I use distilled water with a colourant added for the test. it also serves well as a final flush of the cooling system.
    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 16th September 2007 at 05:43 PM.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #26
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    ahh 12 is the number of cuts ive got in various places on both my hands in total....

    Actually yes.. you know those spring loaded versions of the normal hose clamp that use a nut and dedicated bolt to pull the clamp closed, you normally only see them on high pressure hoses (the intenal hoses on say A Fire engine) and hydraulics... He started out with the same type of clamps as Im using (being the good flat metal spring type clips) and got a weep from his bottom hose, so replaced it with a stainless steel screw+8mm nut head jobbie (same type as the intercooler hoses on big red but slightly bigger) He asked what to do about it at this point and without even crawling out from under big red (I was dropping oils at the time) I said clean it up with some emery paper, replace the hose and use the normal supplied spring clamp. Said naff that I'll use a proper clamp then went and rummaged around at the fire vechicle servicing workshop (same building as where we were working) and came back with the spring loaded type... (which I didnt see as I had assumed hed gone to our parts bay)

    The rest is history...

    It wasnt till He called me over to "have a look at this for me" after hed busted the pipe that I found that my assumptions were wrong. I had assumed that he was going to go from a spring clamp to a screw type hose clamp not a bolt up jobbie....

    on that note I use the supplied new spring type hose clamps when fitting a new hose. IF they leak I clean up the pipe fitting with a bit of 800 grit wet and dry, give the hose a slick of gasket sealastic and let it settle for 5 minutes before putting it back together with the spring clamp if it leaks after that I butcher the old spring clamp off and open and reclose a new hoseclamp to the thing without removing the hose. My initial leak test is with a regulated supply of compressed air plumbed into the system at 110% of the systems nominal operating pressure, this way its not hot when I do it and I use distilled water with a colourant added for the test. it also serves well as a final flush of the cooling system.
    Ahhh, those clamps, awsome things, but overkill for 16psi of pressure, problem is, once tight, you hang of the ratchet with a lever action and twist the pipe off

    I wouldn't silastic hoses on myself

  7. #27
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    the sealasitc generally doesnt stick well to plastic or porous flakey aluminium its often just enough to stop the leak (plus I have all the solvents for the sealastics at work.)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    I wouldn't silastic hoses on myself

  9. #29
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    ahh.....


    but you range shift on the fly.. at 50.... :P
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #30
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    Launceston, TAS
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    Never needed to myself but I remember once a guy who swore by smearing a very thin film of grease on the inside of the hose to seal it. Added bonus was it helps prevent corrosion on your alloy fittings.

    Don't know I like the idea but hey worked for him for many years

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