Thread: In Dash USB and Cable

roger, the converter looks ideal but you could also use something like the narva dual usb socket fittings without the housing.
But i think fitting USB sockets in the switch block may be neater using that converter, jaycar have the female USB's but found them cheaper at RPG in north Melbourne -

Radio Parts - Electronics & Components - USB socket Search Results

I have gone down this track, I'd suggest that you don't do it.

The USB has 4 pins on it, the outside pins (from memory) carry the power and the two middle pins carry the communications. When you plug your phone/tablet into a PC the device asks the PC for the amperage rating of the USB socket and then goes and draws this amount.

In a dumb device this is achieved by a set voltage on the communication pins.

Again from memory you will need something like 3.24 volts on one pin and 2.3 or so volts (you can googe) on the other to get 2.1A. If there is no voltage on these middle pins you will only get a 0.5A charge rate, 0.5A will not keep up with the current drain when your tablet is turned on let along charge it. So if you go this way then you will need also to build a voltage divider to put the correct voltages on the middle pins and do the associated wiring. This is a simple matter but adjusting the voltage divider to get the correct voltages is not as the current draw of the device changes the voltages on the pins and then it goes back to 0.5A but wait the voltages are right for 2.1A so go for that, but hang on the voltages are off again - you get the picture.

On top of this is the fact that your converter will give out a bit of heat (enough to melt the plastic case of your voltage divider when it's crammed into your mulgo exbox) and you will have to get the USB's to panel mount onto surface (Jaycar is the only supplier I found that did one with fly leads)

So calming down and letting it all go - deep breath, deep breath

Best option is to go something like this

Dual USB Splitter Cigarette Lighter Socket Charger Adapter 12V 5V 1A 2 1A | eBay.

Plug 12Vdc into the back of it, all done.


Cheers Glen

Thanks Glen, Thanks Loanrangie,

My only reason for going the inverter option was to keep the profile small and reduce the amount of hacking I had to do in the dash! Otherwise the all in one dash mounted convertors are the go.

Since I posted, I found this which might look neat in a switch panel:
CAR Truck Boat Accessory 12V 24V Dual USB Charger Power Adapter Outlet K69A | eBay

So, in all, I am leaning towards fitting one of the above jobbies in a D1 panel where the ashtray is and one of Glens suggested jobbies in the vacant area where sunroof switches would go. I'll think about it.

Could just work!

Cheers
Ralph