Thread: Broken wheek stud

I discovered a few days ago that a rear wheel stud has sheared off.
Probably due to the nuff nuffs with rattle guns.

Is it hard to change the stud?
Do I have to remove the disc etc to replace it?

Thanks

Mal

fortunately the deefers hub setup has remained in its base format since about the county... heres the short list on how to deal with it

BTW after having 4 incidences in less than 3 months of the stake nut not doing its job properly after being replaced (including one where a new nut was fitted but the wrong spacer was fitted between the bearings alowing what in my opinion was excesive bearing play) I reccomend converting back to the old double nut with a lock washer method of retaining them but the jury is out on weather you want to run grease or oil... Im still running grease as my seal face on the stub axle is badly scored and burnt from lack of lube on the seals after they were given the minimum grease possable treatment from stealer servicings.... But I digress.....

to change your stud....

jack up and secure the offending wheel station on an appropriate stand then remove the wheel as per the manual.

remove the rubber cup from the end of the axle or take of the 52mm nut if you have maxidrives

remove the circlip

remove the 5 bolts from the drive flange and withdraw the drive flange then remove the axle.

clean up any gunk or gasket that is left behind

loosen off the stake nut or double nut setup. (2-3 turns only)

clamp the flex brake line for that side with an appropriate brake line clamp, remove the pipe from the rear caliper if its a rear cap the pipe and plug the hole and then remove the brake caliper,

undo the stakenut/doublenut completely and withdraw the hub complete. take this to the workbench and stuff the openings of the hub to keep crap out....

now you should see in the recess of the rotor between the hub proper and the rotor 5 small nuts on studs, these locate and hold the tone ring if you have ABS, remove them and then gently drop the rotor from a height of about 2 inches from the workbench and the ring should just fall out. if you dont have abs skip this step

inside the brake rotor you should see 5 bihex bolt heads, remove them then tilting the rotor at 45 degress using a soft face hammer gently beat the snot out of the hub and it will come free of the rotor (if you leave 3 of the rotor retaining bolts in by about 3 turns it wont go flying) FFS if your not replacing the bearings and seal be bloody careful not to damage the seal or let the outer bearing fall out. (Ive been known to loop a long zip tie or piece of rope through the guts to hole everything in place before I put blanking rags in)

now go take your hub and supporting around the flange on the back side using a real hammer beat the broken stud out (Id reccomend replacing all of them at this point)

flip the hub over and install the new stud again supporting the flange on the wheel side with your trusty hammer, once youve got it most of the way home put a handfull of washers or spacers over it put a wheel nut on backwards and crank it down till it seats the stud correctly, then pull it off and inspect your handywork.

That done assembly is the reverse of dissasembly...

bits that you need to know about assembly

*the rotor to hub bolts need loctite 243 and are tightened to 70nm
the tone ring bolts should be use once nylocs and are done up to about 10nm and loctite 243 if your resuing them
*the brake caliper bolts need loctite 262 and are done up to 70-90Nm depending on which manual you read
**the stake nut gets done up to 500nm or thereabouts
if you have the double nuts install the first nut, tighten to 150nm and rotate the hub 3 turns, retension the nut till it maintains 150nm after turning. Back the nut off 1/2 a turn and then tighten it to 50nm rotate the hub 3 times, back the nut off again and tighen to 10nm (only just past hand tight on most of the 52mm sockets) then install the locktab, outernut and tighten the outer nut to 50nm. Lock the lockwasher onto both nuts and your done.
*the drive flange bolts are done up to 70nm and need a very small amount of loctite 243 on the first 2 threads
your wheel nuts should be done up to 100nm but apply some antisieze to the clamping face of the nut and the threads of the stud before you apply them (you can just use a smear of grease)

Its acceptable to re-use the bolts marked with an * but I advise against this and recommend you fit new ones. I also advise that with new wheel studs new wheel nuts should be used but thats only really critical if your old studs have worn threads from the wheel rattling round on them (ask Disco steve about this)

** FFS buy a new one...


hope that helps.