Don't know whether the Td5 unit can be repaired. Mines still working fine. As for a new or replacement one I'd suggest roverparts.com.au or Triumph Rover Spares (in Londsdale)
I have a 2000 TD5 and the battery went flat yesterday. Had the RAA jump start me but after they checked, found that the alternator was not charging.
Does this mean a complete replacement of alternator or is there brushes that can be replaced or anything else I should be looking for.
Just after I got a jump start, all the electrics went dead on the car and as I slowed, the motor stopped. Jump started again with success but again stopped shortly after.
If I need replacement alternator, how much am I up for and where can I get one at a half decent price.
I live in Adelaide.
thanks
Don't know whether the Td5 unit can be repaired. Mines still working fine. As for a new or replacement one I'd suggest roverparts.com.au or Triumph Rover Spares (in Londsdale)
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
It's pretty common for the regulator to die on older alternators. I'm not sure about the newer ones such as yours. I'd maybe talk to an auto elec or two for some advice. 1995 alternator regulator is $100 and extremely easy to change. Make sure you have all the numbers on the alternator with you as there may be a few different shapes.
Hope this helps
The Td5 alternator is a replace alternator only. You are going to up for $700 plus fitting so it is an expensive exercise.
According to LR they are non servicable and if they are to be serviced it has been a hit and miss affair that made it unreliable. It appears that it created more problems than it solved.
Here's one in the Markets section.
http://www.aulro.com/apc/showproduct...ct/1320/cat/25
I've had a TD5 alternator repaired after it was filled with mud. I didn't really realise it at the time, but after repair it still wasn't putting out the correct charge and this caused other problems, primarily with battery charge, dual battery isolation and winching capacity. When it failed again I replaced it with a low km's unit from TRS which was about $400-500 IIRC and that unit so far has been excellent with proper charging voltages (especially now it's getting cold here!).
The real PITA is accessing the alternator to change... that makes it a time consuming job for the 1st timer. I know.
BTW, the alternator also comes with the vacuum pump and it is all oil lubricated from the motor.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
conveniently if you check out my provent thread the basic instructions for removing the alternator are almost all there I had to remove mine for other reasons but I reckon it can be done in under 90 minutes..
if you follow the instructions for accessing the return hose in the thread but instead of making a long loop for the provent return after youve cut the existing return line to get it out use a short piece instead...
Be very carefull when pulling the alternator out not to damage the return fitting on the motor as it appears to be a pressfit item.
The plug for the excite/indication lead on the back of the alternator is a pita and its a push to release item, take the time to carefully pick the crud thats probabley built up on the plug away from it with a scribe or thin piece of wire(after you disconnect the battery) or you'll snap it like I did, I got lucky and it was just the clip that broke making removing it a swear word inducing feat.
If youre planning on following the instructions from the provent thread to remove the alternator you then need to go for these extra steps
- remove the torqz head bolt that mounts the bottom of the alternator (its tight crack it with vice grips or multigrips first.)
- slide the alternator forwards so you can access the excite/intication plug easily
- then slide the alternator back and put the strap back on then tie wire that up to the manifold so that it doesnt fall down and bite your fingers later.
- under the vehcile move the collant hoses out of harms way and behind the bracketry that holds the hose you will find an 8mm bolt, remove this and remove the hose bracket
- remove the 3 13mm head bolts that secure the tensioner/alternator mount to the block and pull it out of the way.
- remove the tie wire and strap then lower and rotate the alternator so it sits on the powersteering pump, fan and the side of the block.
- back under the vehicle reach your hand up and slide the alternator in this pattern
- return alternator to orignal orientation
- lower the back end and then lower the whole assembly
- push the alternator backwards and rotate so the mounts clear the powersteeting pump and the bloxk
- lower the alternator and pull it forwards at the same time rotate the alternator to clear the diff
- twist the alternator so the pully faces along the axle to the other side of the vehicle and slide it out along the steering rods.
and bobs your uncle the alternators out.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Are you assuming that the alternator is dead or do you know?
There's quite a few alternators that require +12v before they start charging... The jump start should have given it the +12v it needed but you might want to double check just incase.
HTH
M
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