Thread: Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

Hi bee utey,

We own a 1988 Range Rover High Line with a 3.5l V8 engine with EFI. We converted to incorporate LPG and now run on dual fuel. We need to upgrade the Lucas electronic ignition. Can you supply or advise where to buy the parts needed to ensure the RR runs efficiently on LPG without backfiring? Our car was off the road for months when backfires ruined the airflow meter. No-one, including especially A Grade mechanics and LPG installers, could tell us what the problem was. In the end we replaced the gas converter, the airflow meter, and finally sourced an anti-backfire valve.

Regards, Derek
Booroobin Qld

Originally Posted by bee utey

Well, I finally remembered to get the camera out when I did another Bosch ignition amplifier conversion.

The vehicle here is a '75 RR 3.5 with a distributor from an '87 RR EFI.

The first picture shows the ignition module close up: terminal 3 is 4.8mm wide, it is connected to a new red wire from the distributor. Terminal 7 is connected to a new black wire from the distributor. Terminal 15 goes to the coil +ve. Terminal 16 goes to the coil -ve.

The next picture shows a HEI coil and heatsink set from an early Camira. It has a module that I haven't bothered investigating, so I replace it with the Bosch BIM024 module. To do that you remove the two plastic locator pins off the module, use plenty of the heatsink paste, and assemble.

The next picture shows the coil and module mounted, ignition positive to the coil positive, and I left the original negative connector for the (future) tacho. This is the connection the EFI engine uses to drive the computer.

The last picture shows the distributor with the new red and black wires connected to where the module usually goes. I made two male 3.2mm crimp terminals by cutting 6.3mm ones with sharp tin snips, I could have done it neater but with a healthy dob of silicone it will hold there just fine. When I do a later (3.9) distributor, the existing cable that goes to the original amplifier (blue and red wires?) can have two new female crimps fitted at the coil end, and applied to the new amplifier.

What happens if you get the polarity of the two wires reversed? Then the amplifier will trigger (roughly, from the falling pulse) and your ignition timing will be out by a large amount, if it runs at all. When connected the right way around, the timing should occur near where the magnetic pick-up meets the star rotor on the distributor shaft. The air gap here is critical, it should be adjusted to the smallest gap allowing free rotation, otherwise low speed operation might be somewhat erratic.

I have done about 30 of these conversions, none have come back to haunt me. The coil and module can be sourced from older car wreckers, I usually pay around $10 each. The module was fitted to large numbers of Australian production cars around the early 80's, before EFI became popular. So if you know where there is a VH commodore distributor or similar, the module lives under the tin cover on one side of the dissy.

Cheers and happy rovering.

Originally Posted by DerekatBooroobin

Hi bee utey,

We own a 1988 Range Rover High Line with a 3.5l V8 engine with EFI. We converted to incorporate LPG and now run on dual fuel. We need to upgrade the Lucas electronic ignition. Can you supply or advise where to buy the parts needed to ensure the RR runs efficiently on LPG without backfiring? Our car was off the road for months when backfires ruined the airflow meter. No-one, including especially A Grade mechanics and LPG installers, could tell us what the problem was. In the end we replaced the gas converter, the airflow meter, and finally sourced an anti-backfire valve.

Regards, Derek
Booroobin Qld

Hi Derek,
Any competent auto sparkie should be able to do the modification based on what is in this thread. I sometimes supply complete kits but have none spare until I get some time off work, probably early July, to get some more bits from the wreckers. PM me your phone number if you want a chat, just to make sure you have done all the other things gas needs to be successful.

Hello I own a 1987 Range Rover EFI auto. I had some firing problems. I've changed the distributor. It has run well for a short period then the problems (stalling, misfiring, stop on idle) have been re-occured. I replaced the module with another 3 pin type and mounted it on the left fender (the place where the ignition coil is installed) over an aluminium heat sink. The car does not run well and the coil is very hot. I cannot touch it after the car runs about 2-3 minutes. My mechanic cannot resolve the problem. Please help what should I do? I have a reconditioned ECU, a brand new alternator. Should I replace again the module, should I mount it on the distributor again. I don't know what to do, where to search the problem. Thank you.

Originally Posted by fclef

Hello I own a 1987 Range Rover EFI auto. I had some firing problems. I've changed the distributor. It has run well for a short period then the problems (stalling, misfiring, stop on idle) have been re-occured. I replaced the module with another 3 pin type and mounted it on the left fender (the place where the ignition coil is installed) over an aluminium heat sink. The car does not run well and the coil is very hot. I cannot touch it after the car runs about 2-3 minutes. My mechanic cannot resolve the problem. Please help what should I do? I have a reconditioned ECU, a brand new alternator. Should I replace again the module, should I mount it on the distributor again. I don't know what to do, where to search the problem. Thank you.

hello flclef

If your ignition coil is getting very hot it is carrying too much current. Is it a low resistance type, or original Lucas? I suggest you buy an ignition coil from an electronic ignition such as 1980's BMW or Mecedes or Japanese vehicle and try that instead. I have used my conversion on the 1987 RRC engine many times but it would be hard for you to get the same parts in Turkey.

I have written about the Chevy distributor module/amp being similar in function, perhaps you should try it instead:

GM HEI DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION CONTROL MODULE 4 PIN CHEVY | eBay

It will need an ignition coil to match it, ask the seller perhaps.

Hi

Thanks for the usefull information. My V8 had the same problem - just cutting out. I have now just replaced the ignition module for a second time within the space of one year. Where can I find one of these Bosch 024 ignition modules? I live in South Africa, so I need a supplier that will be willing to ship to me.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Bit of both

Hi

Thanks for the usefull information. My V8 had the same problem - just cutting out. I have now just replaced the ignition module for a second time within the space of one year. Where can I find one of these Bosch 024 ignition modules? I live in South Africa, so I need a supplier that will be willing to ship to me.

Thanks

Have you tried a Bosch agent? I suspect SA got a few Australian cars in the 1980's with these modules fitted, there should be a few around. Otherwise try Bosch Aust website for contacts in SA, catalogue page here:

Bosch - Ignition Modules

Failing that try the chev module shown in my post below, another forumite involved with African D1's went through this recently:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ules-help.html

Send me a private message if you need further help.

Hi

I have tried to source the Bosch 024 module locally, but withou any success. Do anyone know where I can get one? The supplier must be willing to ship to me in South Africa.

Thanks

Rob

Originally Posted by Bit of both

Hi

I have tried to source the Bosch 024 module locally, but withou any success. Do anyone know where I can get one? The supplier must be willing to ship to me in South Africa.

Thanks

Rob

try these guys:

Performance Ignition Services - Contact