Ron,
Can you give me the approximate size of the wound cable and weight so I can get a shipping quote and some $$ to you. Also PM bank details.
Cheers,
Peter
Send me the brown paper bags of money.
Pm me when the money is in my account to help me figure out who has paid and who has not.
I have fitted a cable to my 101 and the diameter of the cable is perfect as is the flex of it for the capstan.
I normally leave my cable and hook at the rear as it is nice to know you can back out of trouble quickly and all is very good.
The front is a bit harder.
As garry pointed out the chassis pulley near the exhaust manifold. is a pain at the best of times and this new cable makes this much harder due to the extra lenght of the stainless swage.
It can still be done , just much harder.
Feeding the swage is slightly easier though the removable double pulleys as the swage is slightly narrower and longer.
If it a real problem you could saw off with a hack saw the extra leght of the swage ,but at the risk of weakening it.
The standard cable lenght is 65 meters.
My 2 cables I had made at 75 meters in the slight chance the extra lenght would fit on the cable drum and it does so I am very happy about that
Ron.
The other cables yet to be made I will try amd get them made to the extra lenght.
Ron
Fitting the new cable was interesting.
First I did a mud map of the threading of the cable though the winch or other wise it is a real pain to figure this out from scratch.
I wound the old cable off until I found the grub screw holding the old cable on the storage drum..( it is a imperial allen key).
Then you have to wind the remaining cable off by turning the PTO uni joints by hand and gearbox in neutral.
I used a bit of insulation tape on the end of the new cable to stop it unravaling and only two turns as it will be too thick to go though the winch.
my job was made harder with a jerry can and a non standard tool box in the way.
using a torch and screw drivers whisle turn the winch uni joints by hand you
feed the cable though in the correct sequence and on the storage drum .
All fun stuff and allow a couple of beers as you will need it.
Tighten the grub screw with the new cable though the hole and triple check your home work.....if you dont a expensive bang may occur.
Fire up your 101 and watch your 101 swallow 65 mtrs of cable and It is a good idea to paint the cable red after a few mtrs to give warning when using the cable in anger that you are at maximum safe lenght.( the cable is like a wick and soaks up the paint)
It is a very good time to treat your new cable with a protective anti corrosion coating.
Ron
PS
I wont be watching this thread this weekend as I intend to give my new cable a work out on the family property.
and turn down the overload clutch so I am not up for a new cable again.
Gday fellow 101ers
Havent been on here for a while. just wanted to say thanks to ron for all the hard work he has done chasing around for these cables.as ive read it was one drama after another and calling in a few favours of his. being in WA it would have been impossible to do as we only have very few cable suppliers and even less would have wanted to know about it.
Cheers gaz
Received the cable today,thanks for your efforts with the cable Ron.
I have the winch apart at the moment for a clean up and have a few questions for the knowing or anyone else.
1.What is a good protective coating?It is a very good time to treat your new cable with a protective anti corrosion coating.
2. The only winch manual I have is an 8 page PDF with 1.5 pages of instructions and the rest part break down.(101winch.pdf) Does anyone have any other documentation?
3. The first page states -'the military use Hypo EP90 for the primary chain drive and the Sadie gearbox'. I found both oil plugs but what is the Sadie gearbox?? (The manual shows the casings and a sprocket thingo with no reference number.)
3. Any suggestions for the clutch load testing. I was thinking of setting it at the point it will to pull the 101 across grass or gravel with the brakes on.
Think I will allocate a few 6 packs!All fun stuff and allow a couple of beers as you will need it.
Hi peter.
The army uses a special liquid tar like stuff on its cables and similar stuff is advailible though lubrication suppliers.
You could throw the new cable into a old 205 litre drum with the top cut out and some sump oil in i and let it soak for a few days.
The new cable is like a candle wick.
I had great trouble painting the red maximum lenght warning marks on mine as the paint just kept dissappearing and going inside the cable, and it is best to do this before lubricating the cable or other wise the paint will not stick.
I used motor bike chain lube on my cable as it was already fitted when I decided to lube it.
It took about three cans to spray it.
The winch overload clutch is very touchy in its adjustment and you only need to work in 1/8ths of a turn to get a big effect.
The winch is more than able to pull the 101 with the wheels locked up.
In pratice I use the front pintle with a tree trunk protector going around a tree on the front to stop the vehicle moving while I tend to winch the yotas/pootrols from the rear as the the jap stuff is usually much heavier than the 101.
I spray the storage drum chain with chain lube through the inspection hole with the rubber bung over it.
I use 90 gear oil for the two gearboxes on the winch.
It is recommented you use a cable tension load guage to set up the overload on the winch.
Peter you are the first person I know to pull a 101 winch apart.
You should be able to tell the rest of us about the internals of them.
Ron
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