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below is some of the replacement stainless steel rubber door seal retaining strips.
The home made press bender worked well this time around.
Each bolt is treaded though the strip ( UNF thread like the rest of the machine) and locked in place and the bolt head is ground down to reduce the high of the bolt head above the strip.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/03/419.jpgStalwart door retaining strips by john smith, on Flickr
I am not too far away from finishing this door and now the weather is cooling off( but the days are getting shorter after work) I must have another cut rust out and weld in patches on the hull secession were the door goes.
Ron
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Wow Ron. So much more done since I last saw this. Grats on the new "boat".
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The door with new rubber seal is done and only a pressure test to check my work and a alloy plate to carry the boat rego number needs to be done.
When ever possible I use new stainless steel bolts and other replacement fittings
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/03/551.jpgPainted RHS Stalwart side gate by john smith, on Flickrhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/03/552.jpgFinished RHS Stalwart side gate by john smith, on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/03/553.jpgFinished RHS Stalwart side gate by john smith, on Flickr
That side gate took about 1.5 litres of camouflage green and the same in etch primer and red oxide.
Its adds up when you pay about $ 70.00 for 2 litres and over 40 Stainless1/4 UNF inch long bolts with washers and nuts etc.( I think I pay about 80 cents a bolt because of them beening UNF and not metric etc)
The photos don't show the size of the parts very well.
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The Answer to the Question of how many Landrovers does it take to move a Stalwart is on this Video.
The Stalwart in the video would be about 10 tonnes.
Land Rovers Moving an Alvis Stalwart. - YouTube
The Stalwart with a dead motor is a pig to steer because you have the scrub of Four wheels and not Two.
One of the reasons I was able to get Historic rego for my Stalwart is the steering system in it, is recirculating ball mechanical connection and not a straight hydraulic boost system as on some of the other Alvis FV 600 series vehicles and modern heavy off road equipment........its a work of art how the steering box/Hydraulic cylinder and linkage works on the Stalwart.
I tried one day many years ago to move a 10 tonne Mack truck with my 101 Landrover with grass as the working surface , it only just did it and both front and rear lockers were used.
Ron
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The Stalwart is a mixture of brilliantly machined components and simple hand made items.
The side door and tail gate pins are just originally mild steel solid pins cut and drilled by hand.
The pins were held in place by brass split pins.
I decided to make new items from 316 stainless steel and lighten things up a bit by making the pins hollow.
R pins are now used to hold the main pin in place............no more stuffing around trying to remove split pins or knocking though rusty mild steel pins to get a side door off.
To take a side door or tailgate off now only takes minutes.
A 3 mm alloy plate has been cut and screwed in place by stainless counter sunk UNF screws to display the boat rego number.
The door is now finished.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/04/290.jpgNew Alvis Stalwart side gate pins by john smith, on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/04/291.jpgStalwart FV623 rear tail gate new stainless steel hinge pin by john smith, on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/04/292.jpgTurning new door pins for Stalwart by john smith, on Flickr
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It looks awesome Ron. Wish I had your skills and commitment!
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Great work Ron. your doing a top job with the old girl and should be proud.
Cheers Gaz
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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/04/360.jpgFV623 Alvis Stalwart by john smith, on Flickr
Its starting to look good.
still much to do.
Got the other side door off currently.
I have a problem that I can no longer use the needle gun to remove paint.(I am at the limits of what may hands can take using this method)
I can do it mechanically with a disc sander etc on flat surfaces, but due to the size of the thing paint stripper may not be the answer on surfaces which are not flat.
Sand blasting by a professional is a option, but will use money I do not have.
The alloy skin on the side gate outer surface is only a 1mm thick and a professional sand blaster may eat it away easily.( and the paint on it is very thick )
Just to transport the side gate to the sand blasters requires a car float type trailer or a table top truck.
The sand blaster gear I have is light duty,and extremely slow that heavy taxes my air compressor and I have to use blasting material recycling type blasters as I cannot make a mess.
I do have a attachment for sandblasting with a water pressure cleaner.......but its single use of the blasting material and uses much blasting medium with a mess.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/04/361.jpgStalwart LHS side door by john smith, on Flickr
The good news is the this LHS door I am working on doesn't need any welding and is reasonable condition other than previous welding repairs and dents.
I have all ready started making new stainless strips for the rubber seal.
The old items are reusable this time around, but I decided to do the stainless thing anyhow as I started to go this way with the other doors.
The idea is I have this door to work on if the weather is not kind to me to work on the body of the Stalwart out side..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/04/364.jpgLHS stalwart side gate by john smith, on Flickr
Any one got a spare Million dollars for a Laser paint stripper to donate to the cause ?
Ron
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Hi Ron,
Sorry - I don't agree that it's "looking good"
It's looking bloody fantastic! Well done - fantastic work, skill and dedication!
Cheers,
GG.
