Thread: Dumb question?

The 101 was designed as a gun tractor, and was never sold to civilian customers. While very capable offroad, it is low geared and hence (unless modified) not terribly good on the highway. As standard it is not particularly powerful by modern standards, although power was good by the standards of military vehicles of the 1970s (think Series Landrover). Many owners other than collectors have upgraded engines.

The driver's position is cramped and the ergonomics not good, plus you are in very close proximity to the engine, so that as standard the driving position gets very hot in hot weather.

I have not heard any suggestion that they are prone to rolling, unlike the 2a FC.

While I find them an interesting vehicle, I doubt that one would be attractive to me as a camper. Also, parts are nowhere near as easy to come by as for other Landrovers of the same vintage - few parts are shared with other Landrovers or, indeed, any other vehicle - the engine is a Rover V8, but has some unique bits to make it fit.

I have not owned one, but have thought about it. The reason I have decided against it is that I cannot see a practical use for one in my position, and although I would love to have one as a collectible, I can't afford it!

John

101 diff/axle assemblies are very heavy duty and share some consumable diff components with other LandRovers,so parts availability is not a,real issue there.Wheel brake assemblies except for drums are same as series 6cyl/v8 .Master Cyl is 101 specific. Basic engine is common Rover 3.5 v8 with special 101 specific exhaust manifolds and ignition system. Gearbox/t/case is LT95 4spd common to RRCs, Stage one V8s,110s and current Aus Military Perenties. Chassis, leaf springs, bodywork and fittings are 101 specific.Although the chassis is externally coated in a bituminous substance from new,They will rust from the inside, and examplesi imported from the UK, where they salt the roads in winter can be quite rusty.Like all LandRover chassis they are constructed from thin steel.Top of chassis is high and dead straight from front to rear, so floor height and overall height for stand up headroom with a camper body may be excessive and compromise stability.
Nicely low geared for offroad work but sorely lacking suspension articulation, they are very ordinary offroad performers unless the axles are fitted with difflocks.Manual steering is too low geared and as already mentioned ergonomics are simply terrible. Really a vehicle for Military Land Rover Tragics I would personally look for one of the Japanese 2 ton forward control trucks as a basis for a camper.
Wagoo.

I luv'em.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/mi...8101-1%29.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/mi...8101-2%29.html

Buy one. You know you want to.

There are two kinds of Landrover enthusiasts, those who have a 101 and those who want a 101.

Exactly what mick said. i love mine and find it no different to drive than a series landy. having said that i dont think i would want one as a camper unless you are a 101 tragic.

Gaz

I like my 101 and I will take it to the grave.
Stock bog they are a 1970s gun TRACTOR and drive like one.
They can be up graded fairly easily to suit civie requirements.
Overdrive, LPG and a locker to make them useful.
steering is hard work and a aussie summer in one of these things will kill you.
suspension. as stock needs a tonne weight in the back for it to work.
They perform OK , but still slighty slow by todays standards.
A camper body or Ambo version will slow things up alot more.
All camper versions I have seen , the job could have been done much, much better by a light Jap 4x4 truck.
I use the 101 around the farm and recreational 4w driving and and just sleep in the back of a standard vehicle and for this it is very good.
Parts have never been a real problem.
Engine conversion I feel are no advantange over stock and spoil the charactor of the vehicle , as that liitle pommie 8 is one of the best parts of it.
As a tough payload carrier off road the 101 is good.
As a camper......very bad.
A perentie 6x6 rover coming up for auction soon would be a better buy.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. So I'm thinking I really need to find a cheap light (canvas covered) aus army one (with the mad truck pulling std factory winch I've seen on youtube) and just chuck swags and boxes of gear in the back for camping... The seem to look top heavy though and I would want to take it as far off road as the P38 can get. Happy to bang the mentioned locker in to help, but am I still being too optimistic that these things can go bush properly?

P.S. Sounds silly, but perenti's don't do it for me like these old clinkers do at the moment!

Originally Posted by DT-P38

So I'm thinking I really need to find a cheap light (canvas covered) aus army one (with the mad truck pulling std factory winch I've seen on youtube)

Well you will need at least $15 - $18K for a registered and roadworthy example that is in very average condition.

I have just covered 3000km in the last 3 weeks in mine - I have my earmuffs and feel I have been in a sauna but otherwise feel pretty good. They are great for occasional use but there are better tourers. The "101 rumble" from the front driveshaft starts to wear a bit thin after about the first 100km.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

Well you will need at least $15 - $18K for a registered and roadworthy example that is in very average condition.

I have just covered 3000km in the last 3 weeks in mine - I have my earmuffs and feel I have been in a sauna but otherwise feel pretty good. They are great for occasional use but there are better tourers. The "101 rumble" from the front driveshaft starts to wear a bit thin after about the first 100km.

Garry

Shortly after the 101s release from the Aust Military many years ago,we modified a couple of front axle assemblies by pulling the axle tubes out, rotating them 17 degrees and rewelding them back in. This gave significantly reduced universal joint angles, but they were equal and parralell angles(no rumble) instead of the standard equal and opposite angles.A raised oil level plug to protect the pinion bearings and all was good with the world.It's not really a job for a home handyman because the factory plug welds are glass hard, and there is some welding and remachining of the axle tubes involved, but McNamara Differentials in Moorabin have done a couple a few years ago at the cost of around $500 (bare housing).
Wagoo.