I called it quits for the day a few hours ago, but I got the oil pump primed with Vaseline, and the start of my "starter" box done. Currently 41.9 deg in Perth

I called it quits for the day a few hours ago, but I got the oil pump primed with Vaseline, and the start of my "starter" box done. Currently 41.9 deg in Perth

Got some exhaust dump pipes done today so that when the engine is started I don't blow hot gasses all over the gearbox and chassis. Its the 4th time using my new arc welder. Slowly getting the hang of it, but it really makes the MIG welding I did at high school seem easy.
Also picked up a Frost (elcheapo Sutton) tap and die set to clean out the threads in the exhaust header that I didn't need to drill out. They worked a treat and didn't cost a huge amount to boot.
Finally, when I went to test my starter box today I found that my fuel pump is deadThankfully the car came with a second pump which does work so I can swap that in.
All moving along very nicely atm. Should get my gauges during the week so I can fit up the oil pressure sender then be able to look at pulling the dizzy out to prime the beast. If that goes to plan I will be flicking the go switch next weekend
Got so close today. Had the oil pump primed, everything wired up and started running fuel through before it started urinated out the sediment filter. The rubber was to far gone to effectively seal. Have coated it with Permatex No3 after doing the run-around to the auto-part stores and being told they have nothing that will come close for fuel. Will let it set overnight and try again, if it still leaks, will bypass the sediment filter for now.
Other dramas were I snapped an oil pressure sender trying to tighten it gently. Would like to say its due to the Brtipart quality but the 24mm spanner I was using was close to a foot long, so perhaps to much leverage
Also below is my oil pump priming tool, an old screwdriver with the handle cut off!! This method was extremely easy and primed the pump very quickly. Was able to watch the oil pressure light go out and confirmed oil was getting everywhere.
And where I was using it, note I have my starter box in the top right of the pic which I could keep an eye on the oil pressure light with.
I ran the drill for quite a while to get oil everywhere it would get it. I have a great deal of confidence for starting the motor safely now.
Try a paint shop and ask if they can give you a gasket from a bowl from a old touch up spray gun, or find some one who has a O ring kit where the O ring is made to suit from different strips of O ring material and glued together...ie truck repair shops.
I personally may up grade my fuel filter to a CAV diesel type , as they are cheap and effective................Its just a problem of if it fits in the advailible space above the motor.
That sediment bowl is a filter and you are most likely missing the element.
Chances are AJ may have them or knows what fits and the new element would come with a new gasket.
Are we talking about the water trap or the fuel filter (filter inside a steel bowl). If the latter I stripped the thread out of it years ago and just use a clear inline filter in its place - the filter lies on its side and you can see the fuel flowing through it (confirm pump is working) and if the filter actually fills up with fuel it is time to change it.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Talking about the glass bowl filer Garry. Was a moot point anyway, tried again this morning with my temporary fix to the seal and once fuel reached the carbies it started coming out the bottom (the float chamber??). Have pulled them off once again to check them out but I imagine Ill be needing some new seals. Unfortunately I know next to nothing about carbs, can diagnose efi problems, but carbies have always been a mystery to me, so will have to be a sharp learning curve.
Also know why the rocker covers weren't painted from factory, because when fuel inevitably spills on them it gets ruined.
The starter motor was not up to scratch either. Didnt have enough torque to turn it over with the spark plugs in. Will look at fiitng the old unit out of my disco which only needs the terminals cleaned up.
Bit of a downer but will persevere.
For clarification its leaking from the areas shown below:
Just above the nut in both instances.
Someone may know what this indicates which could save me pulling them apart. Looking at the manual these could possibly be mixture adjustment?? One side was leaking quite bad while the other side was just dripping. A little tweak on the bolts/nuts didn't do much to stem the flow.
Also looking at a few of these kits if I need to open them up:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stromberg...item35b5e172c8
Ok - so initially we were talking about the water catch bowl - there is no filter in there.
When I got my engine running first time around, petrol poured out the bottom of the carbies - there is a small O ring in there that perishes and cracks. The o rings are a common size and are freely available - I had a box of reject shop o rings and put one on and it is still there four years later - no leaks.
Just note where the bits are and uncrew the who thing - can be done with the carbies in place if you are careful.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
When you say unscrew the whole thing , do you mean the float chamber (ie, the four flat head screws) or just the bolt thingy (I believe its the bottom of the jet assembly??) hanging out the bottom. If I remove it am I up for a world of hurt trying to rebalance the carbies or is this done elsewhere? Just thinking if I have to rebalance them, I may as well go to town on them and rebuild the the lot.
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