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Just found this diagram in the repair manual. I assume I can pull out just the jet assembly and will see which seals are perished.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/02/1352.jpg
edit* so I think I've found the culprit. Going to do a run around to see if any of the auto-stores open have a suitable replacement.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/02/1353.jpg
I screwed out the bottom bit to check it out but took note of exactly its position and just put it back in the same position.
When you get your truck all up an running I would put it in to a trusted mech and get them to set everything up - took my mech about 1/2 hour and runs really well - actually well ran pretty well before hand - can also identify other no seen issues (I had poor spark).
Garry
I can't believe I've just read all 12 pages......and not wanting the story to end. :D
Excellent thread, keep up the good work Stuee.
Got the new o-rings on (those shown and ones on the jet adjustment screw) and the carbies back on (will be able to rips them off in under 5 minutes soon...). This time I was able to at least turn it over,and after a few issues with ignition wiring I was able to get a few pops and farts.
I checked the timing and it was quite a bit out ( over 12 deg atdc), so adjusted that to a very conservative 6 deg btdc, which gave me more pops and farts. When its running I will take it out further. Spark was rather disappointing, so will be looking to change a few things there, namely check the block is suitably earthed to the jumper battery, and may have to get a better power source. The ignition cap, rotor, and spark plugs are original so I will chase up new Lucas ones during the week and have a crack again next weekend.
Oil pressure light would go out after a few cranks without fail each time too so that's some good news.
Its enough to get me excited at least :D
Also thanks for the heads up on the o-rings today Garry, was just about to shelve it for the day. For anyone -elses info, suitable o-riongs can be found in the Champion boxes of assorted o-rings (imperial):
O RING ASSORT PACK CBB4 CHAMPION - Supercheap Auto Australia
While I was at supercheap I spied a very attractive looking Ryco fuel filter with a water trap on the bottom (forgot to say I ran a generic fuel filter to get me by for now). It was a Ryco R2132UA and I'm mighty tempted to just run one of these and scrap the sediment trap and normal filter. Will look into it further to see if it is actually suitable but looks the goods.
Ryco Fuel Filter Universal - R2132UA - Supercheap Auto Australia
Great to see it all worked out - standard 3.5 timing is 3 btdc but is not all that important - can go as far as 9-12 btdc Ok.
Popping and farts are promising (have you got oil in the dashpots - if not, it causes farts etc and no go when cold). I would given it a dose of 'aerostart' or 'start your bastard' - would have got my curiosity going having it fart and not going - why don't you run outside and give it a squirt. :D
Garry
I did have a can of quick start with me but how effective I was with the starter motor, throttle body and everything else is another question. Would love to keep going into the night but unfortunately with the exhaust comprising just headers and a bit of pipe, I would most likely sour relations with our good neighbours next to where my 101 resides :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
The fuel filter is the one I would fit as a after market one and replacement R2134P elements cost around $8.50.....cheap as
You will need two adaptor fittings to fit it onto a rubber fuel hose.
The obivous place to fit it is above the motor , but they are a bit fiddley to replace elements on and you tend to drop a bit of fuel, so on the side of the chassis near the gearbox would be safer.
Back fire on a motor is usually cause by two things.
1 lean fuel mixture.
2 incorrect firing order or badly miss timed distributor which can cause the rotor to flash over to the wrong stud inside the distributor..
..........double check your firing order.
Well the escapade starts once again. I have replaced the rotor and cap, that resulted in no change, tried swapping out the GT40R for the old coil again with no effect, and have tried new spark plugs too. The spark looks very weak and small. The spark you get from your stove top ignitor is much bigger and brighter.
I'm now leaning towards bad supply, and/or bad earth. So far I have not added a second earth cable to the motor, not sure where the factory earth points were on the 101 (only have the one from the starter motor atm), so browsing online and through the manuals to try and find out.
If I have no luck today I am going to roll the 101 outside and swing it around so I can hook up jumper leads to the disco and have a constant power supply. So far I'm not getting much run time with the jumper battery.
Got a consistent spark now at least and a bit stronger than before after a few wiring changes. Still thought I would be getting much more from the setup though. Its about on par (if anything a bit less) with this:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZVypo0Trik&feature=related]1977 Ciao Moped Spark - YouTube[/ame]
Have double checked firing order after replacing the dizzy cap and am reasonably sure fuel is getting in as some of the spark plugs come out a bit smelling of fuel (maybe too lean as Ron pointed out???), also double checked no1 is firing on TDC.
Tried powering off the disco which didn't work as well as I thought so just back on the jumper battery. As a bonus I got to clean the car port out properly after I moved it.
Less pops and farts than last week too. Going to start having a play around with the carb settings next I think.
I am guessing the igntion is electronic, just check the correct sort of coil is used and the correct voltage to the coil.......ballasted about 8 volts and un ballasted 12 volts.........coils and wiring/igniton system must match.
Some times with modern fuels and cranking the motor to get it going the sparkplugs will get black carbon on them and not spark across the plug under compression, but will test OK while unscrewed out of the motor.
Another trick if the spark is a bit off is to close up the sparkplug gap a bit to reduce the the voltage needed to fire the sparkplug under compression.
I wouldnt touch the carbies just yet.
The spark just needs to be fat and blue while cranking.