Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
Will give this one ago first thing tomorrow.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
Will give this one ago first thing tomorrow.
Found a good video of testing the coil directly as Ron describes, the guy has a creepy voice though :eek:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJYJ3KvPhhY"]Ignition Coil - How to Test - YouTube[/ame]
The coil definitely fires but not as big as I would have hoped, even with the ignition lead removed. Take the spark plug out of the equation and the spark from the lead earthing is just as big as that video, if not bigger.
I've also hooked up the ignition to its own battery so it will have full voltage while cranking. The latest attempt got me a few more pops while cranking with the choke on and aerostart. Not much with the choke off and aerostart.
I'm also considering the ignition leads. They are brand new Bosch leads but there appears to be a bit of play on the end of the plug, where as the leads in my disco (also bosch) are a super tight fit. Done for the weekend though, got tea at the folks house this evening and fishing next weekend so will come back after a break and see if I can get one of the WA guys to come over and help.
Try a fresh set of plugs.
Modern fuels play havoc with plugs and coats them with a conductive coating.
If you fuel up the motor a bit whisle trying to start the motor. the plugs tend to become coated.
Any pommie motor bike rider riding an old single lung bike will atest to this.
If you dont get your old pommie bike going after a few kicks , you need to drop in a new plug.
I have been getting problems with the Alvis Stalwart for the same reasons.
If you purchase the new plugs and its not the problem, you have not wasted our money as you can use the spare plugs later on.
Been a tough weekend:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/02/562.jpg
But before I tackled the weekend I got the motor running with the help of mike 90 rr. I was the main problem, my finding of TDC by myself with bluetac was not reliable and timing ended up 360 degrees out... :bangin:
Once that was sorted it fired into life without a fuss. As pointed out by Garry in another thread, not likely a mistake I will make again soon. Many thanks for the continued assistance all, even when it was probably clear the mistake was my end and I was not seeing it. I still have some questions regarding the vacuum advance on 101's (I realise all the 24V'ers wont be able to assist on this) but its late and I'm knackered from fishing, so will put it together tomorrow.
As required by the rules, proof of said motor running:
[ame="http://s570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/?action=view¤t=EngineStarted.mp4"]Videos :: EngineStarted.mp4 video by stuee69 - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid570.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/EngineStarted.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid570@@AMEPARAM@@570 @@AMEPARAM@@ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/EngineStarted@@AMEPARAM@@mp4[/ame]
Also started looking at assembling parts of the body now. See my thread in the tech section:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...anel-tape.html
Now with the motor running I need to plan out how to proceed with the body. Ideally I'd like to get the front of the cab up so I can mount the brake and clutch master cylinders and start running the hydraulic lines. Lots to do before then though.
That is running very nicely :). Cooee who built the bright yellow 101 (Little Thumper) found that it was best to do all the dash wiring while the nose cone was off.
Having tried to do work on the dash wiring with everything in place I would certainly recommend doing it first.
Garry
Having started looking closely at the bodywork now I can see that any work on the engine/wiring is going to be fun with the body on :oQuote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
When you say Cooee took the nose cone off, did he simply drill the rivets out and had everything else in place while he wired everything up? I was hoping to tackle the hydraulics first then get the steering done so I could start moving the truck under its own steam, but I will have to plan out how it will all go together. I was under the impression that a lot of the electrics were actually mounted to the nose cone? (like fuses and relays).
I am not sure exactly what he did but he always said it was easier to do with the nose cone off.
Here is thread at the time that has some pics but not with the nose cone off.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-proj...per-101-a.html
Not much to report. Ran an oil cleaner and cooling system cleaner through the engine today and ran it for a good half hour. Replaced oil and filter, flushed engine and filled with proper coolant.
A video because I can :cool:
[ame="http://s570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/?action=view¤t=EngineRunning.mp4"]Videos :: EngineRunning.mp4 video by stuee69 - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid570.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/EngineRunning.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid570@@AMEPARAM@@570 @@AMEPARAM@@ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/EngineRunning@@AMEPARAM@@mp4[/ame]
Looking at the logistics of the body work a lot closer now and have come to the realisation that I need to spend a decent chunk of money to get things kicked off and get some paint applied. Not looking to slave for hours with paint stripper and a sanding disc so will most likely drop the panels off a bit at a time with this lot:
Home - stripped-bare, Perth's longest serving soda blasting company
They can also prime the panels once they've been blasted in 2K primer. All I need to do now is find out how long the panels can remain in primer for, before they need painting. My plan is to get all panels primed, then assembled, then drop the parts of in pieces or one hit and get them all painted (want 2-pack so no go for home application). I will think about getting the galvanised bits that weren't touched before re-galved so its a nice factory look when its all done.
For the time being I need to spend some time on the yard and the disco which I am seriously thinking of selling as its just not getting enough use. This would also give me some more money to put towards the 101.
Do not discount paint stripper on the 101s alloy panels.
How well it works depends on the number of previous coats of paint and type of paint used.
I'm just taking the lazy option on this. The previous owner hit a lot of panels with paint stripper and they have come up reasonably well, with only corners still left with paint in them. Problem is they have now all oxidised and need another good clean-up.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
If I clean them myself, I need to have them primed shortly after so they don't re-oxidise, which I cant do at home with 2-pack primer. This means running them to a paint shop soon after cleaning and becomes a logistical nightmare. The above mentioned mob is located not far from where I work, and is open at 6.30am so I can drop in before work and pick it up later in the week before work again.