Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Garry has the right idea.
You are in a great position to completely rewire the front of the vehicle.
Use the old harness as the blue print for a new one.
As garry said a disconnect multi pin plug on the wires running from the fan tunnel to the dashboard will be a god send later on.
Moving the ignition coil and any electronics away from the LHS inner guard will pay off in a big way later on.
I personally have not found another location for the coil which doesnt involve alot of work.
The engine fan is inline with the ignition coil in its standard position.
if the fan finds water the engine stops.
The question is.....are you any good at wiring ?

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

The question is.....are you any good at wiring ?

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I get by :angel:

I lean a bit towards OCD with wiring these days (when its not temporary, otherwise its nasty), especially after some of the mess I've been dealing with at work lately. I'm constantly changing my mind on how to go about certain things with the wiring atm, but I have taken on board the connector between the dash and cab, as well as cab and chassis. Once the cab is assembled again I will have a better idea where cables can run and fuses/relays/etc be placed.

I will be looking to use a decent fuse block, either aftermarket from someone like Painless wiring or a decent unit from a wreckers, possible commodore or falcon. I want everything to be neatly labelled and easy to follow. I've been trying to get work to get a proper cable label maker which I would promptly borrow for when I get onto my wiring, alternatively, there are kits out there with the circuit name printed over the wiring. Lots of options out there but still a while off unfortunately.

The only bad thing with the wiring is that an immobiliser will need to be fitted for registration unless I can find an exemption for older cars. This could prove to be a pain.

I did get to work stripping panels over the weekend. I gave the stripper a try as I haven't got my act together to drop the panels off to be blasted during the week. Was pleasantly surprised at how good they came up, except for the bitumen liner underneath :mad:. That had to be scrapped off.

I have never heard of a immobliliser being needed for rego.
I use my battery change over switches to stop any one wanting to borrow the 101.
The wiring on my 101 was extensively reworked before I got it.
it was not too successful, as it is hard to trace though and gives much trouble due to the add hoc way it ways done.
Relays are not the holy gail.........a heavy duty push/pull switch etc if done right will work just as good without the complexity.

My 101 has fuses and relays hidden behind a false cover you can see in this pic just to the right of the Helo lifting ring.( below the screw driver)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/04/443.jpg

Do not place relays in the fan tunnel as they will get too wet and give trouble.
My non standard dash board.....note the wiring mess underneath
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/09/701.jpg

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

The wiring on my 101 was extensively reworked before I got it.
it was not too successful, as it is hard to trace though and gives much trouble due to the add hoc way it ways done.

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That is pretty full on - looks like a lot of wires hanging out. What's the reasons for the non-standard dashboard?

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Relays are not the holy gail.........a heavy duty push/pull switch etc if done right will work just as good without the complexity.

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I plan on using the original switch gear where possible. The standard wiring makes use of relays, but a few big ones as opposed to multiple small ones. I plan on splitting a lot of the circuits where they were commoned up before and make use of standard automotive relays available from anywhere as opposed to the original lucas and Hella items which you would probably struggle to replace from supercheap or a petrol station.

As I will be doing a lot from scratch, I will be adding a relay for things like fuel pump and ignition but wont be going crazy with them and putting them on all the indication and low powered circuits. This is where the fuse/relay blocks come into their own because they have all the relays and fuses in one nice location that's easy to read and wire up. Looking into it more after this discussion I may just bite the bullet and buy a full wiring harness. They aren't hugely expensive, and the proper colour coding and labelling across the whole harness would make future trouble shooting a breeze rather than me trying to use existing wiring and splice it into a new fuse/relay block.

The following website has some very good diagrams of the standard circuits. Its for a lightweight, but this is exactly the same bar the oil pressure cut-out for the fuel pump. There is also one similar to these floating about on the 101 club forum.
Land Rover Lightweight

Edit*
Really liking the look of this kit:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=10120
Probably close to $500 once delivered:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-10120/?rtype=10

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

I have never heard of a immobliliser being needed for rego.

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As far as I am aware all WA vehicles must be fitted with an immobiliser to be roadworthy.

Garry

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Originally Posted by garrycol

As far as I am aware all WA vehicles must be fitted with an immobiliser to be roadworthy.

Garry

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Sorry forgot to address that point. Yes, in WA all vehicles must be fitted with an immobiliser when registered or a transfer of ownership occurs. I'm not aware of any exemptions, but haven't looked for any at this point in time.

edit*
http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licen...0418.asp#21070

Looks like I should be good as the vehicle is older than 25 years. Provided it doesnt need a historical license to comply.

Thanks for bringing this thread back Diana!!! :D

As an update I've been progressing with the bodywork.

Stripping the bitumen coating needed an old chisel and a hammer to help at some points. Its been hard work!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/06/1213.jpg

Some of the damage that needs to be repaired (not from stripping the bitumen):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/06/1214.jpg

Bitumen gone:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/06/1215.jpg

An air chisel is your best friend for removing bitumen if you have a lot to remove.

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Originally Posted by Gillie

An air chisel is your best friend for removing bitumen if you have a lot to remove.

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Having never used one before don't know how comfortable I'd be using one on aluminium panels. I made enough gouges with the hand held chisel, and that was just using my arms (no hammer and I'm not huge haha).