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If you have not done it, I would be replacing the s shaped rubber hose that bypasses the thermostat to circulate water when cold - it joins the back of the water pump to the lower thermostat housing. It is out of the way and out of side and if it splits takes for ever to determine it is the culprit and it is difficult to change with everything on the engine in place.
Garry
Great build love it
Thanks for the heads up. The goal is to replace all perishable hoses but I wasn't aware of this one. I will have a close eyeball tonight. Is it a hose molded into shape or will generic coolant hose be suitable?Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
It is a moulded S shape and normally coolant hose could not be bent to fit.
We aware there are a few different versions and of course the 101 number no longer comes up in the system. I think there are two types for a normal 3.5 so I would get both and fit the one that is closest - it will still require a little trimming to fit.
Garry
Thanks for that. I will hit up the local Rover parts place and check out their wares. Can book my Disco in there to get the starter motor replaced too.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
Did a bit more disassembly today (supposed to be putting it back together!!). Pulled off the thermostat housing and attempted to think about how to remove the exhaust flanges that appear to be fused to the exhaust headers. From what I gather the 101 exhaust headers are as rare as hens teeth now, at the same time as being easy to crack.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/11/999.jpg
I'm also trying to keep as much of the exhaust as I can at least until I can get it to a muffler shop to make up a new system fro the headers back, but it would be nice to at least have the exhaust exiting half way down the chassis instead of straight out the headers and making a mess of the freshly painted chassis.
Also getting quite a lengthy shopping list for items for the engine including:
- Thermostat and gasket
- S-Hose for thermostat bypass
- Rotor Cap and Rotor (genuine Lucas items)
- Leads - bosch
- Oil filters
- Spark plugs
- Fuel filters
Going to cost a few dollars and then I have to drop even more on new fuel lines and vacuum lines. To top it off I received a $1500 tax bill so things might not be progressing as quickly as I hoped over the next month or two :(
If you mean removing the bolts into the bottom of the manifold, try the following, which has worked for me on my P6.Quote:
Originally Posted by stuee
1. Protect the chassis with some folded steel sheet and start and run the engine for a minute or two so as to warm the manifolds. Try removing the fasteners, more heat may be needed; once they start moving allow it to cool a bit and soak in light penetrating fluid.
2. If there is no luck with the above method, heat the bolt heads with an oxy-set to a red heat. Try to turn when they cool to a black heat. Warming the manifold first, is a good idea to help prevent cracking. I have never known this method to fail :D
Reassemble with Loctite Anti-seize,
Cheers Charlie
Stuee - as you have appreciated 101 manifolds are rare as hens teeth and as brittle as glass. When removing the actual exhaust pipe the manifold will break about 2" above the join.
Last year I did my clutch and broke the left manifold in the process of removing the gearbox - luckily I had a spare but I found my right spare was also cracked. I am keeping the broken manifolds so that if I break another in the future I can get the old ones welded up by a specialist cast welder (is a brazing process).
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1/100_0797.jpg
So be warned - any sideways pressure on the manifold will break them.
Garry
Part way there:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/11/793.jpg
Got one out the other just twisted the bolt off. Couldn't get enough heat to the shaft going into the header I think and not letting the bolt cool enough.
Will weld a nut on the this bit which should have the benefit of blasting a bit of heat down the bolt shaft hopefully breaking the rust bonds.
Also going to paint the headers with some VHT type paint after all this. Have seen that with the headers off the starter is extremely easy to access to so will rip that of and give it a clean.
After one failed night I was nearly ready to take it to a machine shop but finally success tonight. First attempt at welding on the bolt, it simply sheared straight off again. I feel the welds were not up to scratch now. Second attempt I cut some slots in the exposed stud an attempted to use a screw driver. Third attempt I tried drilling and broke the drill bit after reaching the full depth of the bolt. 4th attempt attempt I built the stud up with a bit of weld (had since been drilled and slotted), welded a washer flush to the flange and finally a nut to the bit of weld built up and success!!!
First welded nut:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/11/708.jpg
Second welded nut with success:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/11/709.jpg
The end of my broken drill bit just sticking out:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/11/710.jpg
One extractor down, one to go, then paint...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/11/711.jpg