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Had tried to reply to this last night but must have hit preview instead of submit :mad:
The second extractor didn't go nearly as well, ended up drilling out both bolts, but I can use a nut and bolt in place on this side.
Also got the starter motor back on which I pulled off, tested and repainted.
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Nothing to report but I bought an Ajax air rivet gun which I hooked up and had a play with. Nice piece of kit and so much easier on the wrists than a manual rivet gun. I've got mixed views on the sealed rivets I've purchased. The bunnings Zennith jobbies the stem snaps off above the rivet head and looks messy (to big anyway so wont be using these) while the ones I got from coventry's appear to do the same but it was only a small broken fragment stuck in the top of the head which knocked out after.
Not sure if Ill use sealed rivets everywhere if they end up being this messy, but from what little body work I have assembled it appears only sealed rivets where used??
Zennith on left, coventry's in centre and generic open on right
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G'day All, Sealed rivets were the type used by Rover, you can knock in the nail with a small pin punch, that sort of thing happens even with expensive rivets as well, cheers Dennis:angel:
ps have to agree with you, air powered rivet gun is easeir on the wrists than the lazy tongs, I have the big A in both thumbs and wrist problems,,.:(
Again not much to report thanks to this little cutie:
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Our new German Shepard pup. She's now about 8 1/2 weeks old and picked her up on Saturday. The last month or so has been getting the yard ready for her arrival including replacing a fence, dropping a gate, paving areas she could dig to escape and removing all the rubbish in the yard that may be dangerous as well as general rubble and sand left over from renovations 2 years ago (filled 7 cube skip to the brim!!). So apart from being broke I havnt had much time to spend on the 101, but I have the week off and now she is settled in I can hopefully get some time to work on the truck while she's sleeping.
I did manage to make my own rover v8 spark plug socket today though. Had to take to a cheapie socket with a grinder and the end result was this:
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Got all the plugs out checked and put back in. Have everything I need to start the engine now bar fuel lines which I might be able to squeeze in before xmas.
Cute dog.:)
That reminds me that my P6 has a tube spanner in the tool-roll, which was the only spanner that could fit onto the plugs - must be something different about the 3.5 heads!Quote:
Originally Posted by stuee
Cheers Charlie
G'day All,
What a lovely little pup, but I have to fair dinkum here, you won't have time now for your project;):p:D, so I will arrange to have it picked up so you can spend more time with that beaut little pup:D, cheers Dennis:angel:
ps can't wait to hear it running via Utube,,.:cool:
Don't understand why you needed to make a spark plug socket - standard spark plug sockets fit fine - well they do on my 3.5.
Doggies love 101s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
To be honest I was a little bit stunned when my sockets didn't fit. Thought there must be a generic "skinny" socket that would work, but seems like most auto shops and tool shops don't have a clue. I since found out by looking at the parts manual that there should be a box/tube spanner, as chazza pointed out. Went looking for a plumbers socket which is generally made of sheet steel but bunnings only had metric sizes that didnt fit, and the tool shops only had high quality German ones that were just as thick as a normal socket.
My dad lent me an old imperial plumbers socket to try but I promptly lost it before I got a chance to try it out :oops2:. Turns out 5 minutes with an angle grinder and a $7 socket work just fine though.
Sourced 80% of the fuel hoses today. Just need to find someone who can supply me clear fuel hose to go between the two carbies, apparently this is hard to get hold of these days. Worst case Ill just use black rubber, I believe the only reason to keep it clear is to see if there is air in the lines??
Also need to source a 90 degree connector for the sediment filter as I'm missing that. May need to go to an Enzed type place for this.
Once I've got this Ill mock up the lines from the tank to the motor and start getting ready to turn her over. If I'm not to occupied over Christmas I should be able to get this done *fingers crossed*.
I also managed to replace the fuel filter element and seals, clean the sediment trap and etch prime the final parts on the chassis (front and rear bumpers and some outriggers).