Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Poured some oil in the motor today and went to turn it over a few times with the hand crank to get everything lubricated. Got a few turns then it jammed up. Will rip the rocker covers off tomorrow to take a look to see if any valves are sticking, if all fine then I will drop the oil and sump and see if theres anything obvious. Have also read that you can squirt some oil in the spark plug holes to soak from the top down.

Looks like it wont be as simple as I had first hoped :( Its definitely a lazy way of doing it but my goal was to get this back on the road within the shortest time-frame possible, restoring most things myself, and leaving the engine, gearbox and diffs (all the big $$ items) for a later overhaul if they need it.

Otherwise I've installed the Pertronics unit in the dizzy, mocked up all the fuel hoses, replaced the coolant hoses, blocked the heater inlet and outlet and just need to get some temporary wiring done to the starter motor, fuel pump and ignition. But if the motor needs major work it will be a big bummer.

With all the exhaust bits I've got I'm going to make some dump pipes to direct gases away from the chassis and gearbox for when I start it up too. These will stay in service till I can drive it to an exhaust shop to get a full exhaust made up.

Also found a great store for all my future connector and hose needs not far from where I live. Much better service and stock than the other Enzed type stores I've tried around the place, and they sell all the bits I will need for brake and clutch lines which is a bonus. Can really recommend them to anyone in Perth:
Couplers Malaga

Having a look today and it looks like I will have to pull the whole inlet manifold off in order to pull the rocker covers off. Tried pulling one off this morning and too much interference with the carb and rockers to get it off. I've tried getting just the carbs off, but you either need impossibly small spanners or to pull the whole manifold off :mad:

At least I can give the whole lot a proper clean, and will probably drop the carbs off to get a service somewhere or even look at doing it myself. Never touched carbs before but may be a good learning experience :eek: Any advice for these? Best left alone and let the pros do it or have a crack myself. If it was EFI I wouldn't have any gripes, just computers and sensors, carbs are a different way of thinking though.

Will also clean up and possible paint the rocker covers and manifold. Also means I will need a few gaskets so looking at placing my first order from the UK, either John Craddock with a few extra 101 parts or just Paddocks if I just get the engine parts for now. There's potentially the ebay suppliers as well that sell the full kits but none of them tell you exactly what's included so I will have to fire off a few emails. Any ideas on decent local suppliers. Rovacraft are a bit on the pricey side and you generally only get brtipart stuff from them anyway.

Edit - any thoughts on the rocker cover gasket type - cork or rubber? Also any particular brands to avoid - I'm not ripping of the heads at this point in time so will not be looking at head gaskets.

Well visual inspection of the valve-train with the rocker covers off and the lower half of the engine with the sump off show no signs of obvious damage.

I'm not sure what the go is at this stage, I only managed 10-15 hand cranks before it stopped so it was turning to start with. Will be posting something up in Technical chatter asking for suggestions. I'm not sure where to look next, I would have thought if a bearing ran dry or didn't have enough oil it would progressively get harder to turn instead of just stopping :confused:

Gee I am puffed out reading all the threads;):)

hope you sort it soon, yes best ask in Tech Sect, you may get a quicker

response fron the RR drivers and get it running sweet:)

We are still playing with our Cabs as ous is straight gas ATM, need to get it on petrol as well.


Mrs hh:angel:

What sort of carburettors are they? If they are SU Burlen Services in the UK have all the parts and they are very easy to work on but you will need a manual. If it is any help I have the manual for the SU HIF6, I can copy the pages for you.

As Bee Utey suggests on the other page, try blowing any muck out of the cylinders after turning the engine backwards. I don't think the engine is seized but rather jammed by something.

Was the inlet manifolding blocked off when the engine was in storage? I have lost count of the number of fossilised mice I have found inside cylinders over the years.

Is the gearbox connected? I once had a starter ring gear move on a flywheel and jam against the block. Is the starter motor pinion jammed on the flywheel?

Cheers Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chazza

What sort of carburettors are they? If they are SU Burlen Services in the UK have all the parts and they are very easy to work on but you will need a manual. If it is any help I have the manual for the SU HIF6, I can copy the pages for you.

As Bee Utey suggests on the other page, try blowing any muck out of the cylinders after turning the engine backwards. I don't think the engine is seized but rather jammed by something.

Was the inlet manifolding blocked off when the engine was in storage? I have lost count of the number of fossilised mice I have found inside cylinders over the years.

Is the gearbox connected? I once had a starter ring gear move on a flywheel and jam against the block. Is the starter motor pinion jammed on the flywheel?

Cheers Charlie

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With the carbs, I now have to wait for a bunch of gaskets so I may look into rebuilding the carbs, just have to research into them a little first. I may take you up on that offer for the photocopy if they are the same model.

The inlet manifold was open, open, but with it off and inspecting each of the cylinders it looks like it is reasonably clear from obstructions.

I'm starting to become suspicious of the gearbox/clutch. I did check the starter and the pinion looks clear, but I have no idea what's going on behind the flywheel. SO Ill spend a bit of time investigating this tomorrow.

Things are heading back on track. With the help of "mike 90 rr" I got the engine turning once again.

As the motor currently stands:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1191.jpg

Most of the seals and gaskets have been ordered and should hopefully be here for me to pickup tomorrow or worst case next weekend.

I wanted a bit of extra power out of the 101 so in cleaning up I painted the rocker covers in 3M's "Rocket Red" engine enamel. Looks to be more like blood orange atm though. Hopefully it will dry a fuller red and I will get those few extra kilowatts it brings with it :p. Old beer cartons make quite handy trash cans too...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1192.jpg

With the sump off I took the chance to clear all the sludge out the bottom and degrease it only to find the bottom of it has some bad surface rust so I will hit it with the wire-brush wheel tomorrow and give it a fresh coat of paint (I still have plenty or Rocket Red / Blood Orange left :D - but it will probably just get the White Knight Satin Black :cool:).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1193.jpg

Also checked on the carbs and they are Zenith-Stromberg CD2S carbs. Dont know if this is a good or bad thing

What was stopping the engine from turning?

I wouldnt touch the CD stormbergs unless you need to.
They are simple and if the needle settings are undisturbed there is no reson to touch them.
Carbys tend to wear out threads and break screws etc when pulled apart for little gain.
The only problem these carbys get is holes in the rubber piston diaphrams on if it occurs is easy on vehicle to replace.
I carry spares with my 101 as the diaphrams are cheap and take up no room.
A couple of drops of engine oil in the carby damper at service times is the only other thing you need to do to these carbys.
Get the motor running and only fix if you have too as you will make more work for your self trying to set up carbys and other engine settings from scratch.
In the tool kit of my 101 I carry 2 special short lenght open end/combination spanners for removing the carbys from the motor if I need to on the side of the road...........can be done , but is a bit of a pain.
The same short spanners are good for adjusting the main jet idle mixture .
Anthony Johnson in Montrose Vic is great for 101 parts and alot of series and defender parts at reasonable prices.
There has not be one time he has not been able to supply a 101 part I have needed and his knowlege on these vehicles is good.
I am finding the 3.5 motor as stock is a great little unit that holds its tune with electronic ignition and I have had little need to work on it other than oil changes etc and I give it a real hammering at times.
I carry a spare oil pump to oil cooler hose in my 101 as they have been know to leak with age, but is something that can be checked any time down the track.
Ron

PS
When I had my diff centres painted go faster bright red my 101 agained 10 mph in top speed and 2 mpg better fuel burn.
I have great hopes for your experiment in red rocker covers !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drifter

What was stopping the engine from turning?

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We believe it was a sticky valve refusing to budge after a few years sitting in the guide. Possible a bit of rust built up on the exposed part of the valve shaft or a bit of crud/carbon/something dried on. We gently worked the motor back with two screw drivers on the flywheel sprocket, then were able to work it back another full revolution with a strap on the crank pulley. It now turns over fine. I'll be replacing the valley gasket as there is a bit of corrosion around one of the cooling ports, so when I rip that off I will also get to have a peek down the valley and will also apply some engine assembly lube to the camshaft so its protected for start-up.

Cheers for the tips on the CD's Ron. I've seen you can get the diaphragms for next to nothing so I will get a couple to throw in my own tool box. Will also have to source a cheap pair of spanners from supercheap to cut up like you have.