Stuee's 101 Rebuild

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Originally Posted by stuee

Just a note for those doing brake or clutch lines there are both iso (bubble) and double flares used on the 101. This has caused me a bit of grief as my rigid tool only does single or double flares - I've seen youtube vids of how to make a bubble like flare with a standard double flare tool but not going to risk it on the brakes.

My job over the weekend is now to get all my new bundy tube cut to length, straightened (if my wood blocks work) ...

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My Sunbeam Alpine has similar pipes on it, but I found making the bubble end was no big deal using a similar flaring tool to yours. Admittedly two unions leaked when we bled the system but all that they needed was tightening; I have been using it for some months now and all is dry and perfect. :D

To straighten bundy tube, bend it by hand until it is close and then place it on a smooth surface, such as a steel plate, and gently tap the high spots with a small wooden mallet. Roll the tube frequently, tapping down the high spots - the same method can be used to straighten wire, or even steel bar using a hammer.

I did my straightening on an anvil,

Cheers Charlie

Got the clutch lines sorted from the cab down to the slave yesterday. The clutch are all double flares, even off the master cylinder, unlike the brake master cylinder.

My straightening method - worked well enough for what I needed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/214.jpg

My first line bent up and installed (the green tape is simply to stop the nut slipping down):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/215.jpg

Second line made up and compared to old:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/216.jpg

My fiancée's mirror showing the clutch master cylinder fittings being double flare. I don't know why the designers chose different fittings across the car :confused:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/217.jpg




I have some fuelling issues now. As its a simple case of turning the key to start the motor I'm doing it weekly to keep the oil circulated and everything turning over. I have found that a dodgy looking blanked pipe is now starting to leak. From a bit of research its a blanked return line. I'm not sure why its been drilled out if its not in use, but I also don't know if the fuel lines are original so my current return line could be incorrect and the blank just a dodgy fix that's lasted until now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/218.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/219.jpg

Any ideas on how the fuel lines are supposed to be setup? And what the best way to plug the un-used return line is? It would be much easier if the fuel lines were threaded as opposed to push fit :mad:

Feeling very lazy today so don't know if I'll get much done.

maybe that carby has been on the other side of another vehicle?
The carby rangy was plumbed like yours is, should have a small orifice in the return fitting to give the fuel a bias towards filling the float chambers

Cheers

Ian

Thanks Ian. I'll take a picture of the blanked section with me to the fittings shop tomorrow when I get a few more brake bits. They may be able to supply something to plug it nicely.

Otherwise here are all the brake lines cut and ready to get an iso flare on each end. I've also thrown in some other bits and pieces that I want to show off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/156.jpg

Just got back from the fittings shop. If it didn't have fuel in it they'd suggest soldering it, otherwise they reckon the best bet is to remove the fitting and tap a thread for a plug.

My least favourite job on the 101 is removing the carbies. Extremely fiddly job.

Put some liquid metal/metal putty onto the end of the pipe, it will do like solder and block the pipe. Make sure it is compound that can be exposed to petrol and not go soft. The metal putties are used to repair fuel tanks so should be ok just read the packet before you buy.

Did my dodgy deed for the xmas break.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/196.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/197.jpg


Ill keep the putty in mind for next time if it leaks again. The solder has done it for now but will be interesting to see how long it lasts. When the 101 is back on the road Id like to get a second set of carbies and manifold and rebuild them and clean them up nicely (maybe even polish them :cool:). I was originally thinking fuel injection but I kind of like the simplicity of carbs now I'm slowly getting my head around them.

Stuee,
I've been observing your build,without anything to add, other than, excellent job, looking great.
Ref. the leaking pipe on the carby, I'm fairly sure that's the overflow pipe, dumps fuel if the float valve in the carby sticks or doesn't quite shut off properly when the bowl is full.
This often occurs if sat around for a while, usually a tap on the body of the carby with a heavy plastic handled screw driver (the handle that is) will cure the problem.
These u
We're fitted with a plastic tube that exited the engine bay to the ground, however, if they get blocked up, you get fuel starvation problems when running under load, from memory.

I'll happily stand corrected, but that's what they look like to me...

Peter.
Ps. I have a 101 rebuild in progress, but have gone down the diesel conversion route, so won't be anywhere near original when done.

Thanks Peter. I thought I'd just check the return line quickly before breaky and sure enough is blocked! That's probably why it started pushing out the blanked tube when its never done it before. I think I'll run some fuel cleaner through the next lot if fuel to clean the lines after clearing the return fitting. I may have to undo my dodgy fix but run another return line to the tank. I'll see how it pans out first.

Have a merry Xmas all.

Cheers
stuee

Finished with the annual xmas run around and now have a nice quiet afternoon ahead.

I had to drop the coolant and oil so I could re-tap the thread for the shuttle valve since I didn't clean it after the chassis was galvanised. With the collant out I'm going to hook up the heater hoses but I also took the opportunity to remove the old mechanical temperature probe. Wasn't quite straight forward, it took lots of heat, drilling, bashing, release spray etc but its out now and I've kept the original thread in tact which is good.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/157.jpg

Also because I'll probably spend the rest of the day drinking beer and chilling out Ill post up pics of the only other thing that I've done and thats clear the blockage from the return fitting. The below pic shows a 1mm drill bit which I worked through to remove the ball of crap on the end.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/158.jpg

Fuel should have better luck getting through here now:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/159.jpg

I hear AutoOne has a boxing day sale (30% off everything) so I'm going to head to my local store and look at picking up some dynamat for when I go to line the engine cover and that sort of thing. That stuffs not cheap so best to get it on sale.