Thread: Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Stuee,
You're about there, that small hole in the return line fitting is very importat!
If not there/drilled out too large then the restriction is not enough for the pump to be able to maintain the correct pressure to the float bowls.
The return is also important to prevent vaporisation especially when starting a hot engine, ensures a constant relatively cool fuel supply!
The vent pipes really to need to be vented to atmosphere, I once spent many hours trying to work out a misfire problem, only to discover it was caused entirely by one of these being blocked.
On classic Range Rovers these went across to the inner guard and down to the road. Not sure with the 101, can't say I have any recollection from when I pulled mine apart, I'll have a look through the photos I took at the time.
So long as they go clear of the manifolds, somehow, then they should be ok, only petrol should come out if there is a problem, so not good on hot manifolds....
Regards
Peter.

Originally Posted by puma130tc

Stuee,
You're about there, that small hole in the return line fitting is very importat!
If not there/drilled out too large then the restriction is not enough for the pump to be able to maintain the correct pressure to the float bowls.
The return is also important to prevent vaporisation especially when starting a hot engine, ensures a constant relatively cool fuel supply!
The vent pipes really to need to be vented to atmosphere, I once spent many hours trying to work out a misfire problem, only to discover it was caused entirely by one of these being blocked.
On classic Range Rovers these went across to the inner guard and down to the road. Not sure with the 101, can't say I have any recollection from when I pulled mine apart, I'll have a look through the photos I took at the time.
So long as they go clear of the manifolds, somehow, then they should be ok, only petrol should come out if there is a problem, so not good on hot manifolds....
Regards
Peter.

All running good now. It was definitely over fuelling with the fuel bowl vent blocked off. The thing wouldn't crank first up after I fixed the vent line so I checked out the spark plugs on the side with the carby that had the blocked vent line and the spark plugs were all practically wet. I cleaned these, fired it up and it started rough but as the excess fuel cleared it went back to running very smoothly. Only the tiniest little bubble came out of the vent line when the fuel pump came on so it must all be working properly now that the return line is cleared. I'd like to know how the 101's are setup so I can do similar. I agree its no good venting fuel onto a hot engine!

With the engine back to normal I've now been able to finish flushing the coolant and drain out the cleaning agent (should have had this done before Christmas!!!). I'm leaving it to drain over night then it will be getting a fresh lot of Tectaloy 60 in the morning. Now with the temperature gauges all hooked up I'm not so sure the series 3 electrical gauge should be powered by 10V. While the VDO is reading around 82 degrees, the series 3 electrical gauge is reading close to the redline.




Any one have any experience with the series 3 gauges and where they normally sit? I might try and run it on 12V at some point but in no rush atm. At least I know where the needle should be and I have the VDO as backup.

I also note that I shouldn't have problems with Perth winters. The heater is very hot

A video of the engine back to normal and running nicely:
[ame]http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Engine%20and%20Gearbox/2013-12-27173501.mp4[/ame]

Wasnt a great day today. I decided I'd do the passenger side disc conversion where the car sits currently, a bit tight but still enough room. Cleaned up a bit then got started and when I disassembled this side I realised I'd have to take the swivel housing off this time.





Parts cleaned up and items to be painted have two coats of the new Rust Guard quick dry primer. Going to try the quick dry enamel and see how it goes. I just need to clean the CV joint up more then it can all go back together and I can finish the brake lines!

Originally Posted by stuee

Any one have any experience with the series 3 gauges and where they normally sit?

The Series Gauge will be set up to use a sender from a 2.286 petrol or diesel... What sender are you using? I'm sure the later V8 senders were different to suit the gauge in a Rangie... A Stage 1 V8 sender might be what you need.. (Someone else may know more here than me)...

Seeing the inside of your swivel housing reminded me of what one of mine was like!!! Luckily they cleaned up well and the CV was fine!

The sender is from a series 3 petrol so should be the right sender and bought at the same time as the gauge so hopefully I've not been supplied with the wrong part.

Why are the bloody brakes and clutch so difficult to bleed!

Got the rears done fine, I think the shuttle valve is holding the fronts out but no idea on how to stop it blocking the fronts - the bleed nipple doesn't seem to do anything, and the clutch just doesn't want to get any air out. Can gravity bleed the clutch fine but still makes no difference. Pipe into a coke bottle still makes bugger all difference too. Pump it 20 times bleed the air out and it gets firm only to go soft again in a minute or so later. Its like there's an air leak but no brake fluid coming out.

Well and truly getting over this thing at the moment. Only 10 weeks till d-day, I'm sure as hell not going to let this thing be the reason I'm stressed out on the day.

Check the holes in the nipples aren't blocked.

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

Check the holes in the nipples aren't blocked.

Done that. The fronts are the Zeus disk brakes and brand new, was able to blow through them before fitting. The Clutch nipple I can bleed through so assume not blocked.

I'm wondering if there's issues with the clutch MC after getting rebuilt. Going to have another crack first thing in the morning.