Stuee's 101 Rebuild

The seal is no biggie, if you are careful you didn't need to upset the crush spacer.
A big 3/4 drive rattle gun makes removing the nut easy if you can find one.
Quaility of the replacement seal is important.......genuine landrover double lip ones work best if you can find one as the extra lip keeps the mud and dust out with the outer lip shaped to cup into behind the drive flange oil slinger.
I locktite the both the flange nut and drive splines on the drive flange.
I do this because you need to tighten up the flange nut slightly under that needed to crush the crush spacer....ie slight less than it was before and I do the drive flange splines as wear is normally present and the splines will move tending to loosen the flange nut and also allow oil to travel down the splines from the diff and to the out side world.
The dis advantage of loctiting the drive flange splines is you will need a good puller to remove it in the future.
Every thing to do with tailshafts and drive flanges/diff is very important with a 101 because of the almost 6 to one diff reduction meaning all this stuff is spining a lot harder than normal for modern traffic.
The 101 front tailshaft grumble and vibs also tends to loosen things too.
The diff breather needs to be at minimum to have its holes in the banjo fitting of it drilled out larger.
The standard breather banjo fitted has a extremely small hole in it, and one small flake of condensation corrosion rust from inside the diff will block it leading to blown hub oil seals and diff drive flange seals.
On my 101 I have done away with the breather banjos all together and used a Festo swivelling connector straight into the diff housing.

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

You will find that side of the radiator will get busy as lots of stuff has to run though that area.

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Yep, still have the high/low cable to run, and the vacuum pipes for the centre diff lock.

I've just realised too that I've left the accelerator cable under the steering arm :mad: All the loose cables I was going to cable tie to the wiring harness as best as possible to stop them flailing about.

Run the accelerator cable in a way which makes it easy to remove or refit if possible when the vehicle is finished as the accelerator cables have been known to break.................they are a real pain in the bum to fit on the side of the road.
Usually the accelerator cable gets bundled up inbetween with all the other cables and wires.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Run the accelerator cable in a way which makes it easy to remove or refit if possible when the vehicle is finished as the accelerator cables have been known to break.................they are a real pain in the bum to fit on the side of the road.
Usually the accelerator cable gets bundled up inbetween with all the other cables and wires.

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Is it worth keeping a spare? I don't fancy trying to get to the fixings between the brake and clutch pedal assemblies - very tight space to work in.

I carry a spare accelerator cable as it takes next to no room.
I also carry spare electric fuel pump and the standard transfercase gear and special cir clip piers in case the overdrive packs it in ,as a failed over drive will leave you stranded as will a crook in tank fuel pump.
I find the crank handle comes in handy time to time too.
Carby diaphrams take next to no room and they have been known to fail time to time........quick and easy job to do on the side off the road, I always carry the diaphrams.

Busy morning today. Went to put the lower drop-arm on the steering relay and found the splines had been damaged quite a bit. A bit of work with some various files and it was good to go.

Looks a bit out:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/01/248.jpg


On its way to being fixed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/01/249.jpg


I hooked up the vacuum lines to the difflock actuator but no go. Ill have to pull it off and check its all working properly. Since I wanted this thing moving I fitted the rear drive shaft as it only takes 10 minutes to put on and another 10 to remove if needed. Put the wheels back on, dropped it off the axle stands and had a bit of a tidy up then this :D:D:D
[ame]http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/Itmoves.mp4[/ame]



Now I can move it as required and have a nice clear walk way up one side.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/01/250.jpg


And plenty of space to finish the passenger side wiring.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/01/251.jpg

With a walkway to the rear I'll probably start on the rear lights soon. Very happy today!

Coming together nicely.:)

Just looking at the roof height in your carport, and the roller door. I'm guessing the windscreen, roll bar, rear frame and canvas are the last things on your list?:D

We're are you going to keep it once its complete?

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Originally Posted by bacicat

Coming together nicely.:)

Just looking at the roof height in your carport, and the roller door. I'm guessing the windscreen, roll bar, rear frame and canvas are the last things on your list?:D

We're are you going to keep it once its complete?

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:D Yep those things will be coming last. Its never an excuse to say you don't have a shed to house a project in!

As soon as the 101 is finished the carport will be torn down, its a dodgy looking extension that looks like its breaking away (literally) from the original house. That will be the start of subdividing and building a house on the rear block before we sell up and move to a house closer to my work (hopefully with a pool and a shed amongst other luxuries...).

I did have dodgy thoughts about just throwing everything together and driving it half restored to the wedding but its only six weeks away now :o, and I'm enjoying it too much to worry about stressing out getting it finished in time.

Had a couple of people come round today to check out the 101. Drove it onto the front lawn and had as much of a play as possible.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/01/153.jpg

Starting to chase up the door seals again so I cant start on those. The biggest issue is the channel that holds the seals being rusted out. I sent a query to this mob to find the width of the channel to see if it matches that on the 101:
Range Rover Classic Door Gasket Holder - YRM Metal Solutions

Postage looks like it will probably be quite rude but the alternative is to go to a custom set-up using seals from clark rubber, none of which look like they will be an easy fit. Ill update my other thread on doors if I find anything out about these but planning to remove the skin from one of the doors next weekend and introduce it to the wire brush wheel.

I'll keep one door assembled for reference and so I can check out any changes I might make will work when the doors are on the actual 101. I trial fitted one of the doors and reckon even with their shabby paint they still look good :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/01/154.jpg

Awesome - nothing like moving a project around under its own steam:). Don't loose focus now and try and rush to the finish - you've done everything so well - this machine is a real credit to you.

Can't wait to see it 100% finished.:)