Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Master cylinder piston is not coming back far enough.
1/ master cylinder piston is getting stuck in bore on the return stroke.
2/master cylinder push rod is not letting master cylinder piston move back far enough.
3/the very small port in the master cylinder inlet is blocked( there are two ports or holes, one is bigger than the other, should be able to just see it with the fluid supply/housing pipe removed.
4/ incorrect seals fitted to master cylinder.

Some times a tap with a small hammer on the side of the master cylinder will encourage a sticky master cylinder piston move all the back in its travel .
It some times takes aliitle while for the fluid to start lubricating the piston seals..................usually you check all this out on the bench and prime the cylinder best as possible before fitting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Master cylinder piston is not coming back far enough.
1/ master cylinder piston is getting stuck in bore on the return stroke.
2/master cylinder push rod is not letting master cylinder piston move back far enough.
3/the very small port in the master cylinder inlet is blocked( there are two ports or holes, one is bigger than the other, should be able to just see it with the fluid supply/housing pipe removed.
4/ incorrect seals fitted to master cylinder.

Some times a tap with a small hammer on the side of the master cylinder will encourage a sticky master cylinder piston move all the back in its travel .
It some times takes aliitle while for the fluid to start lubricating the piston seals..................usually you check all this out on the bench and prime the cylinder best as possible before fitting.

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Thanks Ron.

1) Makes sense. The unit was overhauled in August, perhaps any lubricating fluid they put in dried out before I filled the system with brake fluid.
2) I checked this by backing off the pedal stop and the master cylinder maxes out before the stop. No difference
3) I'm going to bash things with a hammer a few more time before I resort to pulling it out to check this.
4) I hope not. It was a big shop in Perth and I can only hope they know what they were doing :(

I know for next time to bench test everything, learning the hard way this time.

I've had a few taps with the hammer so far and nothing. I'll have a few more bashes, if only to let the thing no I'm not happy with it. Then drain the fluid out once more and remove the pedal assembly and master cylinder. At least I know it doesn't take long too bleed the rear brakes again.

I might be about to say something really stupid or state the obvious, but is it possible to connect the reservoir hose to the outlet and vice versa, because to me if pressing the pedal makes the level rise, then its plumbed backwards. Now having suggested this I might drag my arse off the sofa and go look at mine! :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sitec

I might be about to say something really stupid or state the obvious, but is it possible to connect the reservoir hose to the outlet and vice versa, because to me if pressing the pedal makes the level rise, then its plumbed backwards. Now having suggested this I might drag my arse off the sofa and go look at mine! :D

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Bugger me you might be onto something! I need to go check if I should be bashing my head with that hammer instead!

edit* oh dear :oops2:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sitec

I might be about to say something really stupid or state the obvious, but is it possible to connect the reservoir hose to the outlet and vice versa, because to me if pressing the pedal makes the level rise, then its plumbed backwards. Now having suggested this I might drag my arse off the sofa and go look at mine! :D

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In a 101 it is possible because there is a little design flaw in the master cylinder that allows fluid to transfer from one brake circuit to the other and this excess fluid goes into the reservoir. There is a small o ring that separates the circuits and when the brakes are applied a small amount of fluid can cross over. Not a safety issue just means one reservoir slowly fills up as the other goes down.

Here is my solution

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...reservoirs.jpg

As one fills up it drains back to the other - works very well.

Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stuee

Bugger me you might be onto something! I need to go check if I should be bashing my head with that hammer instead!

edit* oh dear :oops2:

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I take it your clutch is working magnificently now?

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

I take it your clutch is working magnificently now?

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Yes :D

I made an assumption that the adaptor piece that uses a joint washer to seal would be on the low pressure side (i.e feed from the reservoir). A closer look at the manual tells you otherwise.

I'm just hearing this in my head over and over now:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/01/664.jpg

Just think of yourself as a pioneer.

Now it's posted here no-one else has any excuse for doing it :D

Right, I currently have three prop shafts, two of the same type. Unfortunately with the flaking paint and rust I cant locate any part numbers. The two shafts which are the same are shorter than the one on its own.

I think the shorter shafts are the front ones but want to confirm. I'm sure I've read this somewhere before but cant find anything now I'm actually looking. I want to temporarily fix the front prop shaft up and give the front diff a good work out to make sure its happy after a clean and fresh oil.

Ill be pulling them apart later for a clean and a paint. If I have a spare front one its a bonus as I can keep that in till the other is cleaned up.

edit* found one post that says I'm wrong on the club forum:
http://www.101club.org/forums/viewto...tart=20#p35590

Still looking otherwise

Tailshafts lengths as fitted
front 30 inches
rear 28 inches

The only reason you got the master cylinder plumbing wrong is because you are doing a ground up rebuild......swapping the pipes over on a 101 is not normally a option as they just will not swap over.