Thread: Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Originally Posted by stuee

This one will require a lot more work than the one I've just repaired.

If that was my door, I would preserve it as a pattern and make a new one from scratch. The depth of those rust pits is enough to write it off

PM me if you think making a new one is worthwhile,

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by chazza

If that was my door, I would preserve it as a pattern and make a new one from scratch. The depth of those rust pits is enough to write it off

PM me if you think making a new one is worthwhile,

Cheers Charlie

X2!

Plan is to cut out a new back section from some 2mm sheet I have, cut out the rusted out stuff and weld in the new sheet. I'll then have to do a pattern up to repair the raised section similar to the other door.


I'll also cut the back section of another large section of the lower frame which is shown in another picture.

If the door frame was the same size as the defender or series 3 I would be able to simply cut entire sections out and replace them.

Otherwise today was another hard day stripping paint. I found that my GS was potentially used in a ambo role or they flogged the door off one at one point:


Otherwise a bunch of shiny panels waiting for me to take them to the paint shop. A lot of the shiny or dull spots you see are where I touched up the panel with a wire brush wheel.


I also realised I haven't pulled down one door top yet so I'll do that after work tomorrow. With those the plan is to get the panel beaters to strip the paint. I don't want to do it as it will rust in-between now and whenever I drop it off to get painted. I'll also see if they can do a small rust repair for me.

Repaired the final door frame today - well mostly done anyway. Came up okay and I'm happy these will see me through for quite a while. Just need to get the channels glued on and a drain hole drilled.

Making the new section:


New section made:


Workshop manager:


Need some good lights to help apply the final rust seal coat on the door frame - I have a half built 101 in the driveway:


A solid door frame:

I bled the brakes again and got pedal feel back but still have the shuttle valve showing a failed circuit. Next job for that I will try and apply the vacuum bleeder to the bleed nipple on the shuttle valve. I've already hit it with a hammer and I'm hesitant to remove it because its so bloody hard to put in. I've settled on the fact that I need to stomp on the brakes to get them to work and they probably wont live up to the feel and ease of use of the SS in the driveway

If the rear apportioning valve leaks again then it will be ripped out and I will replace it with a generic one similar to Garry. I was looking at the Land Cruiser ones but they have three ports, I gather one for the front brake line. I'm not sure what purpose that serves but yet to find any cross section drawings or decent explanations to figure out if I can simply block off the front feed port.

Otherwise another turnaround is starting at work and another date I wanted to be finished by has passed (work has literally got in the way though...). Once the turnaround is over I'm going to try and get a week or two off to finish the thing. I've got everything I need or have it on order bar the exhaust, paint for the tray (tinted U-POL Raptor), and possibly rope for the new tilt if it doesn't come with it.

Originally Posted by stuee

and possibly rope for the new tilt if it doesn't come with it.

Where r u getting the new tilt from?...

Its coming from John Craddocks (Exmoor distributor) along with some new wheels. I saw Exmoor make one and they have a reasonably good rep so thought I'd get a tilt to save on postage at the same time.