Thread: Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Originally Posted by garrycol

Stuee,

My 101 is standard olive drab as is the canvas. In summer on the road with sides up it can still get to 45-50 inside the cab and is normally 15 degrees hotter than outside temp - you can feel the heat coming in through the canvas above the cab.

I would definitely not get a black canvas - the body colour you are looking at is close to a standard series 3 Landrover colour (Baby Puke Yellow) and in my view a Sand Colour or even Olive Drab canvas will match the body quite well - don't paint it as the canvas will breakdown after a time. Have a look at the All Wheel Trim site as they do great work.

All Wheel Trim Ltd. Land Rover 101FC page

Garry

I currently have a new olive drab tilt that was manufactured locally for the previous owner. No idea on fit or finish, but my plan was to perhaps dye or paint that one and order a new colour one from All Wheel Trim (whom I got my inspiration for the sand colour). I may try it as is to see what it looks like, but if paint breaks down the canvas I will try and avoid it.

If you can not make up your mind , you can cover all bases by going to a Techicolour or camaflage paint job

Or do a custom insulation hard top cab by brad at west coast fabrication malaga,with extraction and air con then you can go mental with the canvas with no impact upon comfort!


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They've come home. All nice and freshly painted.

Hopefully the only time anyone will ever see the front of a 101 in the back of a Nissan Patrol



Laying some of the panels out. When they are spread out over the ground there's quite a lot there:


Nose cone. Not sure if I'll have airflow problems if I don't end up using all those holes!!


Its like a disco back here:


Probably wont get to touch them till next weekend. Off to Brisbane for a training course tomorrow and need to get everything ready. I'm excited now though as its going to start taking shape!

I now also realise I've been quite slack in getting things done on the 101. Ideally before the whole cab goes on I should have fabricated a new alternator mount, sorted a vacuum issue out and replaced or overhauled the starter motor. All bits that wont be as easy to do with the cab on. Now I've to no excuses to get my bum into gear now.

For the alternator I've settled on the Commodore VN-VS V8 alternator. Ill pick up a cheapo 85A version from the wreckers which will be perfectly adequate for now, and later on I can upgrade to the 120A version with the same brackets if I eventually get round to fitting an electric winch.

120A version:
Genuine Holden VS Commodore Genuine Bosch 120Amp 5.0L V8 Alternator | eBay

For the starter motor I'm tempted to just order a new Bosch unit. They are about $400 but they are a quality unit and the one I had put in my disco before selling it was great. I have my old disco starter in there now but that is very slow, and the original starter doesn't even crank, but it is able to be overhauled with new brushes etc if required.

The vacuum issue is that the ignition seems to advance by 5-6 deg instead of the usual 2-3 with vacuum applied. I need to investigate if this is normal for the 101 (it doesn't appear to be the same for the RR of the same era) or if someone has opened up the vacuum port on the manifold.

If you hang on a while you can buy my perfectly working 3.5 original starter if you like, just gotta wait until I get the new turnkey engine shipped from Acr which will take a while as I am still stripping the wires.
Does that fit with you?


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The after market starters(the latest Bosch ones ) are reduction drive types and are better in design with better throw in action causing less wear to the ring gear and the reduction drive using a smaller electric motor gives the battery a easier time.

Fitting a starter on with the cabin in place is not a problem.
Getting clearence for the battery cable and wiring away from the heat of the manifold at the starter is a bigger problem.
Note that 24 volt 101s did not run any vacuum advance with the distributor fitted to them.
I dont not Know if the 12 volt machines did or did not run vacuum advance.
All ex Aust army 101s were 24 volt and therefore most of the 101s in this country were 24 volt.
From factory there is a very slight horse power difference between 12 volt and 24 volt models ( for many reasons)
My 101 is running a civie 12 volt distributor from a early points range rover which has then had a electronic igintion conversion kit fitted.
The vacuum advance I feel is a good thing and may be a reason why my little 3.5 motor is delivering the goods.
A early points type dist is designed to run the vacuum pick up straight from the manifold.
Later electronic factory dist were most likely had anti polution gear in the vacuum line and a different advance curve for the anti polution motor.
You need to figure out what the setup your dist fitted was designed to run and then look if it is a good set up on a motor which doesnt need to run a anti polution advance curve and if it will work best for you on your motor and camshaft settings.

Stuee let me know what you sort out for the diff lock actuator to light to diff lock wiring wise I guess it would into the dash accessory setup of the top of my head.
Regards Andy


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