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Thread: 101 FC Door Bottoms

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    Mick

    People close to steve say that Steve is saying sorry for the let down.

    They also say; the mag coming back was down to scott and Huws hard work, who should be credited. That the editor Huw has now resigned the editors post, so that's probably that again. As my rights to the club section have mysteriously stopped working you may know more than me.

    What were the parts you ordered. Can I make a local call for you?

    Steve

    The parts I only ever bought one through the club so I can't comment on that.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
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    Those does on Ebay UK are starting to generate interest! It'll be interesting to see how much they go for, and how much Craddocks have them listed at on their site. What was the club charging for them?
    1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
    1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB

    1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)

    'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
    'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    No eye dear. Spongie might ? I had a pair that I'm getting back. The lower frames had been remade and then a thick Ally skin bolted on using countersunk hex bolts and riv nuts. If the lower frame repair sections were made up, that could be a mod that solves the door thing once and for all. Seal strip was 3m stuck onto the door plate. All worked very well and the thicker door was quieter. I'm getting them back to look at what could be done and document it. Door skins were thick enough to weld Ally speaker housings on. Sorry off topic a bit !

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Western Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by bed_bug View Post
    No eye dear. Spongie might ? I had a pair that I'm getting back. The lower frames had been remade and then a thick Ally skin bolted on using countersunk hex bolts and riv nuts. If the lower frame repair sections were made up, that could be a mod that solves the door thing once and for all. Seal strip was 3m stuck onto the door plate. All worked very well and the thicker door was quieter. I'm getting them back to look at what could be done and document it. Door skins were thick enough to weld Ally speaker housings on. Sorry off topic a bit !
    Your on topic, Steve. The opic is 101 door bottoms.
    Oh, and another one of the forum rules, "Didn't happen without pictures."

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
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    Here's the doors as they stand on Fleabay.. Both doors are currently at the same price.. I might have to pull finger and make some! I have a pair of second row 101 doors that I made years ago.... But that's another story!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
    1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB

    1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)

    'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
    'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Scotland
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    We definitely need to see pictures of those.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    I'm on the 101 Facebook group also. We know that Craddocks have more stock and that they are not the same as the club doors. Someone on Facebook is now attempting to make door tops too. Why is it the bottoms don't have galv'ed framework ? Steve

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth
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    Did the last major job on the door bottoms today - re-attached the skins to the frames. Didn't go nearly as well as I'd hoped but at least it looks better than it used to.

    Repaired door skin showing fibreglass bog. Its rough on the inside but the outside is like new because of it. It did cause grief when trying to fold over the lower edges tough.


    Some sikaflex automotive sealant around the edges of the frame to lock the skin in place and stop any vibrations/rubbing etc.


    Frame in palce:


    Now for where it went bad - folding the edges over. I tried numerous methods, all resulted in the paint cracking and coming off. Should of expected it really, paint isn't made to stretch that much. I got the skins painted in one hit but I should have got the inside skin painted, assembled the door frame and skin and got the outside skin painted to finish off. I'll use touch up paint to cover the exposed edges but when the tray goes in for painting I may get them to rub the edges down and repaint them.




    And where the aluminium skin has corroded a bit it was very prone to cracking:



    Wasn't that pleased with them overall but Ill see how they look after brushing on some touch up paint. Its mainly where the paint has come off on the edge or on the outside as this is what will be seen every time I get in and out of the 101. If you stand back a meter or two they look fantastic, just miffed that this much paint came off when the skins were folded over.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth
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    Forgot the full view shots. The bolts were put in to hold the door together while the edges were folded over.




    And the newly painted caps, and some new seals:

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