Thread: Gav's 101.

Originally Posted by bacicat

Not fussed about making them dimmable, on or off is fine. I don't want to drill any more holes in the dash.

No new holes needed - just replace the on/off switch with a variable switch/resistor.

What are you going to use the IR switch for?? I do not use mine (aussie 101s did not have IR lights or special convoy lights) but was thinking about using it to meet the legal requirement for switchable spotties.

On the convoy light aspect - you should have a light up behind the rear cross member (drivers side) that shines a light onto a white painted diff when the 6 position switch is in the right position. Also be aware - when switching the lights off at night it easy to either not go back to the 12 o'clock position or go too far and you think the lights are off and they are not - or you put the headlights on but not the the 9 0'clock position and tail lights are not on. For IR lights, the 101 had heavy duty IR filters that clipped onto the headlights and you switched the 6 position switch to the position where only the headlights are on - in a war zone this would have stood out like dog's what nots to baddies with IR goggles on.

I have never seen any pics of a 101 - Brit or otherwise that had IR lights that were actually operated by the shielded IR switch.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

No new holes needed - just replace the on/off switch with a variable switch/resistor.

Any suggestions for a reasonably priced dimmer switch or rheostat? I found what looks like a good cole hersee unit but its around $60. Otherwise any three position switch (i.e off/on/on) would be able to do it with a few resistors added in.

I've never had any of the infra red switch gear, or convoy lights. Using the space on my dash for the spot light switch.

Jaycar will have suitable variable resistors.

They've got variable resistors, I just haven't found any that look like they will fit the dash nicely. Will flick through the catalog again tonight.

Edit* To clarify I've found potentiometers that can handle the power (15W) but they have no nob on them and can't find one in the catalogue that fits. Most of the others only seem to be rated at 0.5W. Will post up the part if I find it.

Try RS Components as well, they have a very large selection.

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c...ble-resistors/

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c/passive-components/variable-resistors/potentiometer-knobs/'sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294880317&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=4 294960632

Not much to report today. Did 7 hours straight on the wiring. Should have it all finished tomorrow by lunch all going well. Just have to graft the relay and fuse loom I've made into the vehicle and finish wiring in the new body loom plug.

Should work out well and make the dash easy to get out.

I'll post pics once it's all done.

Well, nearly all done. Just have to finish some work in the battery box, and test everything before putting the dash back in for good. There was a lot more dodgey wiring than I first thought and this ate up much more time than I wanted. There were wires run all over the place that I have got rid of, re run or taken back to standard.

I went with Garry's idea of mounting the fuse box and relays up under the dash of the passenger well - thanks mate - there is heaps of room there and I'm not sure why LR didn't utilise this space in the first place for the fuses. I now have 8 fuses and 6 relays. I also have an additional small fuse panel in the battery box for all the accessories - the UHF, terra phone headsets and interior lighting.

Still have to put some corrugated conduit on most of the looms, but this is what I have now.

I fervently hope that picture is upside down and the relays are inserted from the tops of their sockets... I've seen too many rusted out relays fitted the wrong way up.