Engine oil.
Ok, got one more question about the gearbox before I stick the overdrive on it. What sort of oil should be in the box and TC and is the box and TC connected as far as oil supply goes?
Is it 20W-50 engine oil I'm after or gear oil?
I know my way around my Rangie LT77 & LT230 but I have never played with an LT95 before.
Cheers - Gav.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Engine oil.
The LT95 gearbox and TC are not connected however the oil seal between them can fail and there can be a one way tfr of oil. If this does happen there is a mod of an external pipe that joins the two so that the levels equalise. I don't think you will have this issue with yours.
The gearbox and tfr case use engine oil - do not use EP90 is wrecks the bronze bits inside the box.
The O/D shares oil with the tfr case but it does have its own sump as well. Oil from the tfr case goes in via a scoop and hole and excess also comes out there also. So In theory you can remove the tfr case filler plug (half way up the case) and fill both the o/d and tfr case through the o/d filler until oil comes out the tfr case filler hole and both will be filled.
However I have found this is not always the case. So I fill the tfr case first and leave the tfr case filler plug out. I then fill the O/d and when oil comes out the tfr filler both are definitely filled. The o/ds leak a lot as well.
Oh - fill the tfr case through the plug at the absolute top of the tfr case where you can just pour the oil in as the tfr filler plug (which is also the level) is a pain to fill through.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Oooh... Now I'm really glad I didn't drive mine back... It's got gear oil in the transfer case. Not only that I used to run 90 in the one in the UK.. That explains a lot!! Thanks again guys!!
Some gear oils are Ok but not EP90. Just need to research it further but is simpler and easier to put the same oil in the engine, gearbox and tfr case and whats more engine oil works great. Here in Canberra over 40 in summer and -5 in winter and all works fine. It is cheap as well.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Having had to run around all morning, I didn't get a start until well after lunch. Had to move a car to put the 101 on the concrete - and the car wouldn't crank - flat battery.So, couldn't start on any of the oily stuff, I put the car battery on charge and set about making the lever for the cabin. I removed the winch handle and basically made a lever that mirrored that, but longer - the same length as the hi/low lever so it is easier to reach and I have more leverage on it. Fiddled about with some scrap steel I had lying around and in a couple of hours have come up with something that works.
I have trial fitted it and it is in just the right location.. Removed it to paint it and it will be ready to go on with in the morning. Not sure if the photos show it well enough, but there was quite a bit of dicking about getting the offset in the lower part right so it is right above the hole where the cable mounts.
Oily bit tomorrow...
Cheers - Gav
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Also figured out what to do about the lever knobs as well.. Stay tuned - I'm not giving this away at the moment as I want to see what they look like. Only $30 delivered for the 3 lever knobs and the gear knob so not the end of the world if I don't like them.
After asking on the 101 Club forum how long it would take to get the repro items they have back in stock, I figured from the replies that I better not hold my breath....
Will see how these new ones look.
Edit - just looking at a photo of the overdrive know the 101 Club do, and this suggests that the way Garry has his is correct - levers all in a row is disengaged, pushing it forward engages it. I'll see how I go, but to me the more natural way would be to have it like Rons so you pull it back to engage it.
Horses for courses I guess.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Does anyone know where I can get a couple of these?
I have a couple on my winch cable that I will be stealing to get the overdrive sorted as the new cable doesn't have these.
I'm not installing the winch control just yet, so no rush, but I'd one one knows a supplier I can order a couple off, that would be great.
Cheers - Gav
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
That is nonsense. Everyone knows you push forward to get into O/D - how many 5 speed gearboxes to you pull the lever back to go into 5th gear??
Virtually none - you push forward.
Many Trailer Places sell them for use on the manual brake system on the end of cables.
Here is one I found on ebay - UK though.
4 X Clevis Pins M8 Standard Extended FOR Trailer Horsebox Brakes 2 OF Each | eBay
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I see your point, but maybe I'm thinking like that as I used to drive a ****ty old Ford Trader a lot and the overdrive in that was down to engage.
I'm at the point right now trying to decide which way to go....
I'm thinking your way though Garry, it would look a bit neater having all the levers in a row.![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
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