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Thanks for all the detail mate. That's where I was thinking of putting my tank - it is a bit fatter than your tank, but it will still fit fine. Do you have an unloader fitted to yours? I'm thinking the AC compressor would be fine without it, but it is part of the pressure switch I have, so I may plumb it in and there is already a non return valve on the tank where the air goes in.
Just my thoughts... Put the tank at the back... The more weight there the better..... (says the person who's putting a massive cast engine up front!!!!) :D
Thought about that, but I'll be mounting a decent sized custom water tank up the back somewhere soon, so I don't want to interfere with that. The tank only weighs a few Kg's anyway. If I loose a few kilos myself, then it will be all even...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
No unloader valve needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
The compressor clutch can cut in and out with the engine at idle and the engine barely feels it.
just like if it was running a aircon system in a car ???????
What I have done is run high temp pipe from the outlet on the compressor so it can not blow the hose off and I limit engine revs to no more than 2000rpm so not too much heat can be generated and gives me long compressor life.
The whole system has been running for I think 6 years now without drama and every time I drive the vehicle I charge up the air tank for the air horn (my toy)
I find it takes about 20 seconds at 2000 rpm to fill my tank to shut off pressure.
The tank holds pressure for a few days.
Running the motor at 2000 rpm I have spray painted and run a rattle gun from the 101s air .
The Bigger York compressor should work better than mine .
Having the air tank up the front and near the compressor helps keep the plumbing and wiring simple, plus I have the under floor gas tank in the rear of my 101.
Just going over the 101 this morning in preperation for a run down to Lakes Entrance tomorrow and I had a repeat of an issue I encountered once before. Took it for a blast up the freeway, ran like a clock, and had no probs sitting on 110 with the OD in. Got home, cruising through the estate I live in, then pulled up outside my house to back it up the driveway, and after it idled for for a few seconds it then died...
This happens once before, and it doesn't start straight away - but easily restarted after 10 or 15 seconds. The first time it happened, I pulled the fuel pump and checked it, but it runs sweet, and pumps **** loads of fuel. I can hear it running right after it stalls, so I'm not thinking this is the cause, but definitely feels fuel related. Not sure if it is the carbs, or something else.
It won't stop me taking it on holidays but it is a bit of mystery.
Any ideas?
air leak may cause your stalling symtoms
I had a split flametrap hose caused this once. threw carb balance off
No Mystery.Quote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
The engine is flooding...........too much fuel.
Its a little bit like a old Jag............, just finish a run on the freeway and pull up at the traffic lights and it stalls and floods.
Crank over with your foot flat to the floor and the engine will come good.
Your carby float levels could be slightly too high, or your carby float needle and seats a bit worn.
A fuel pump working with too much pressure can cause this too.
Can also be a rich-mixture caused by: the choke/fuel enrichment device being partly on - check cable for fraying, stickiness, etc.; dirty air cleaner; restriction in the air intake.
If you are running SU HIF6 carburettors, worn jets will also make it run rich and as Ron says, coming to idle quickly after a run, can make it run like a hairy goat.
Is your idle speed set high enough?
Cheers Charlie
Yeah, idle is good - about 750 to 800RPM. Choke cable is almost new and I checked this a couple of months ago, and it is going completely off. I drove it 400KM today and it didn't miss a beat - also returned sub 20LPH so I'm really loath to start mucking around with it while it runs so well. It's got plenty of power and sat comfortably on 100 all day with the OD in.Quote:
Originally Posted by chazza
It's only stalled out twice, so I'll go over everything carefully in the new year once I get home.
Carbys are the Strombergs I think - whatever it came with, they haven't been changed. Less than 50KKM from new.
Cheers - Gav.
If a 101 is similar to a RRC the flooding could well be caused by a blocked / partially blocked return line to the tank.
Usually blocked in the metal fitting going back into/at the tank. Quick to take the hose off and stick some wire through.
cheers, DL